• Title/Summary/Keyword: period costumes

Search Result 211, Processing Time 0.023 seconds

A Study on Seon of the Ming(明) Dynasty Costume (중국(中國) 명대(明代) 복식(服飾)의 선에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
    • /
    • v.6 no.1
    • /
    • pp.97-109
    • /
    • 1997
  • Sean means a narrow cloth added to the edge of costume or cushion. At the beginning, Seon was originated to prevent from fraying warp of cloth or wearing out of cloth. However, with the progress of clothing culture, it is used to satisfy the human desire of decoration and enhance the function of costume. The Seon appeared on costumes of Ming dynasty was simple compared to that of the period preceeding it. The position of Seon was mostly at neckline, end of sleeves and hemline. The width of Seon also was quite monotonous and lacks of varieties. The patterns of Seon were limited to ax, cloud and dragon and cloud and chinese phoenix. And the colors used were also limited to four colors, namely Blue, Red Crimson and Black. In Ming dynasty, the same colors of Seon as those of the costume were more preferably used, while different colors of Seon were used in the previous era. The reason why Seon in Ming dynasty show simple design and use the same colors as those of the costume was due to Ming dynasty's desire to represent and to enhance her castic political structure. The need for class distinction was expressed through the pattern rather than the colors of the costumes themselves. While, in Ming dynasty, Bo(補) which was attached to the breast and the shoulders was used to represent the social class because it could be easily distinguished. In Ming dynasty, to stress Bo and to make Seon less conspicuous, Seon became simple and the colors of Seon were same as those of the costumes avoiding strong contrast in style and colors.

  • PDF

Study on the aspect of costume in "Maeil Shinmun" - Focused on Men's wear, Women's wear and Children's wear- (매일신문에 나타난 복식현상에 관한 연구(I)-남성복, 여성복, 아동복 중심으로-)

  • 은영자;최윤혜;형승희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.37
    • /
    • pp.133-148
    • /
    • 1998
  • This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

  • PDF

A Study on the Costume of the Gods in the Ancient Roman Myths (고대 로마 신화에 등장한 신들의 복식 연구)

  • 임상임;추미경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.25 no.5
    • /
    • pp.945-956
    • /
    • 2001
  • The costume for gods in the Ancient Roman myth was studied by examining in the embossed-carving, sculptures, mural-painting and various documents of the period. The clothes item, hairstyle, symbol & ornaments and shoes of the gods in the Roman myths were analyzed to understand the formative process in the religious costumes, and results are as follows. First, the costumes for male gods are the same as those for ordinary men lived in ages, including toga, paludamentum, tebenna, tunica. The costumes for female gods are also the same as those for ordinary women lived in ages, including stola, palla, tunica. Second, the hairstyle of male gods is short curled-hair, twisty roll-up hair and braid long-hair due to the influence of Etrurian in the early days. Another hairstyle is appeared in form of the laurelled-crown. The hairstyle of female gods is curled long-hair, chignon style and braid roll-up hair decorated with hairband. Third, the symbol & ornaments which represent the responsible possession of male gods, are appeared in beard, a stick of the message, arrow-case, offering-dish, antlered-glass, shield, spear-handle, as the superhuman forms, such as the lightning shape. For female gods they are is appeared plastron, a stick of the message, flower. some female gods wear necklace, foot-ring, bracelet. Fourth, male gods wear shoes in forms of sandal, buskin, boots, but all female gods are in barefoot. It could be explained by the fact that a man-centered society in the ancient roman is reflected in the world of gods. As mentioned, Gods costume in Roman myths was very similar to or nothing different from the ordinary peoples in Rome. However, they used corps, sacrifices or sepcific symbols depending on the fields that they were responsible for in order to be distinguished from the ordinary people. This is the result from the peoples expression that they should keep a close relationship with Gods hoping to be protected, and rely on them under whatever circumstances.

  • PDF

The Costume of Korean Envoys and Trading Goods in 1811 through Dong-sa-lok - Focused on Jeongsa, Busa - (「동사록」을 통해 본 1811년의 조선통신사 복식과 교환물품 - 정사 부사를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Ja-Yeon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
    • /
    • v.8 no.3
    • /
    • pp.269-274
    • /
    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

A Study on the Anti-Fashion Expressed in the Korean Student Movement (국내 학생운동에 표현된 저항 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 간문자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.41
    • /
    • pp.153-168
    • /
    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to examine, specifically, the external and internal characteristics of anti-fashion expression in the Korean student movement after the 1945 Liberation. The dress expressed in the student movement represented the purity of student and characterized resistance, and this character expressed strongly in 80s, faded from middle of 90s. Until the 60s, the student movement was not characterized by, so activist students wore dress and suits. It symbolized students as an elite group of society. They added on head-bands to express resistance. In the 70s, activist students wore school uniforms, school military training wear, blue jeans and loose shirts in demonstrations. They tried to express re-bellion against the government and the older gen-eration. In the 80s, the period was remarkably distingusihing by the economic growth at that time. Activist students wore T-shirts with Korean letters and popular paintings specially made, Korean costumes, wrapped in the Taggeuki (Korean national flag), and refused wear on jeans because of anti-Americanism. They also wore masks, muffled their faces, and got their heads shaved. These anti-fashions are very strong expressions for the national independence spirit, national traditional heitage, anti-foreign power and anti-American. In the early 90s, activist students wore reformed Korean costumes specially made group uniforms, after that they wore casual everyday clothes with caps. They tried to express remarkable resistance in the early 90s, but after the mid-90s expression of resistance weakened and faded, so there was no distinction between activist and non-activist. There are the reasons why the student movement changed after the peaceful transfer of political power.

  • PDF

A Study on Hudan Bangryung-Banbee (후단 방령반비에 관한 고찰)

  • 홍나영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.44
    • /
    • pp.117-129
    • /
    • 1999
  • Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

  • PDF

A Study on Men's coats in Early $17^{th}$ Century based on the Excavated Costume of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$) Tomb (김확[김확:$1572{\sim}1633$묘 유물을 통해 본 17세기 남자 포에 관한 연구)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.57 no.7
    • /
    • pp.98-107
    • /
    • 2007
  • This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

A Study on the Costumes Institute of Korea Racing Association - Jockey′s Costume and Riding Costume - (韓國 馬事 服制 路祭 - 競馬 騎裝과 乘馬 服飾 -)

  • 김은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.5 no.2
    • /
    • pp.217-244
    • /
    • 1997
  • This study is about the Korean Jockey's uniform, etc. and horse riding costume as the traditional riding culture grows. I studied informations from the Korea Racing Association's equestrian park, equine museum and Seoul Racecourse Trainers & Jockey's Association. The international regulations of riding costume are compared with Korean regulations, and I consulted some reference books, materials of sports wear and catalogues of some brands regarding horse equipment. The contents includes ; 1. Analysis of informations about horse racing 2. Study of racing, for detail comparative analysis on the following aspects ; -Symbolism, riding costume of jockey, that is, color·pattern·and some formal designs. 3. Suggestion for reasonable and fashionable riding costumes. In the aspects of design, there have not been any historical records, and material adjustments about riding costume in Korea. Therefore we should make more efforts to do developing our traditional costume culture. The result o this study is as follows ; 1. Riding is the sport of etiquette and manners. 2. Most of riding wears are the casual wear centered foreign licenced brands. 3. Study and investment upon specialized material development and processing technology are in demand 4. The need of the consumers are to be satisfied by the quality improvement of the native products design. In addition, we perform to horse racing which is fine play and leisure sports in current society. The horse riding will be a popular sports such as golf, wind surfing, skiing, etc. with the period including lots of kinds of leisure.

  • PDF

A Study on Sewing Methods of the Joseon Period -Focusing on Reinforcing the Opening of Clothes- (조선시대 복식에 나타난 바느질기법에 대한 연구 I - 트임 보강을 중심으로 -)

  • Ku, Nam-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.58 no.8
    • /
    • pp.120-136
    • /
    • 2008
  • This study examined sewing methods used to reinforce the opening of clothes of the Joseon period. Through the analysis of a total of 117 clothing items of the Joseon period, the following results were obtained. 1. Most costumes of the Joseon period had the opening. The purpose of the opening was to allow one to put on and take off a costume, act comfortably, and turn a costume Inside out. The opening was located on the Side, Conte. Back, fgwi(Side opening of pants), Wristband, Armhole, and Godae(the bark part of the collar). 2. As the opening tended to get easily worn out, it was often reinforced. The 1911owing three methods were used to reinforce the opening of clothing items of the Joseon period: a method to attach a cloth such as Dang, Binding, and Badae; a method using a variety of knots; and a method by sewing stitches such as a sort of cross stitch called Satteugi, Prick stitch, and Loop. 3. The most frequently used reinforcing method was the one that used a knot(34 items), followed by the one by sewing Satteugi(27 items), and the one using Dang(25items). The most frequently detected location of the opening was Side(59 items), followed by Agui(37 items), Wristband(19 items), and Center Back(13 items). 4. The reinforced opening made a costume more endurable and elastic, decorative and neat.

A Study on the Costume in Asuka Period of Japan -Focusing on the Ruling Classes′and the Ruled Classes′Costumes - (일본 비조시대의 복식에 관한 연구 -지배자층과 저지배자층의 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 이자연
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.10 no.3
    • /
    • pp.283-292
    • /
    • 2002
  • This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

  • PDF