• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.756-764
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze of size and patterns of ready to wear basic for middle age women. For this purpose, I select 9 brands and analyze the basic skirts size system marketed in 2002 spring in Korea. To study the actual size system, I have compared size labeling, which I researched, with Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. And I also have compared body measurement with the product size. To study the pattern, I have classified the composition of the skirt into 24 items. The different result shows between this study and Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. The waist circumference is smaller than it should be, and the hip circumference is larger than it should be. As I have examined the body measurement and the product size, variability of the waist circumference depends on the location of the waistline. For the hip circumference, I have found that both the body measurement and the product size are same, or the product size is smaller than the body measurement. Both cases have been found to be over 67%. I have classified the analysis of the pattern into four components; circumference, relevance to waist line, dart, and length. For the waist circumference, the same size of the front and the back is 44.4%, and making the front larger is 44.4% also. In the hip circumference, the identical size of the front and the back is 66.7% and the larger size of back is 22.2%. Regarding darts placement, it is moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.3~3.2 cm, the length of darts is 7.2~12.7 cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.1-24
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• 2021

This study aimed to explore the fashion design and style features, and differences in BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet girl groups. A total of 469 fashion photos (132 BLACKPINK, 217 TWICE, 120 Red Velvet) focusing on 23 title songs (7 BLACKPINK, 9 TWICE, 7 Red Velvet) were collected. Photo classification work was carried out in accordance with the design analysis criteria and the results were derived by combining statistical analysis and content analysis. BLACKPINK's fashion design characteristics showed a lot of complex colors, shade tone, pure tone, contrast color coordination, stylistic pattern, slit, patchwork, checklist method, sexy and avant-garde images. TWICE's fashion design characteristics included warm color, complex color, tint tone, monotone, contrast color coordination, tone-on-tone, geometric & stylistic patterns, cotton, silk, a combination of the same material, frill, beads, ribbon decoration, blouse, skirt, and many romantic and ethnic images. Red Velvet's fashion design characteristics were a cold color, moderate tone, monotone, cotton, velvet, geometric pattern, zipper, sequins, T-shirt, pants, tie, belt, and many retro and active images. The fashion styles of BLACKPINK, TWICE, and Red Velvet were as follows. BLACKPINK was divided into sexy avant-garde, sexy active, sexy romantic styles. TWICE was divided into romantic active, romantic classical, and romantic ethnic styles. Red Velvet was divided into retro active, retro sexy, and retro avant-garde styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.480-491
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• 2010

This study investigates the body satisfaction and fitness apparel depending on age and silhouette. The subjects were 254 females 20~50 years of age living in Chungju South Korea. There are various body types in women over the age of 35, the lower part of the body-development type, regular type, the upper part of the body-development type, and the rectangular body type. In addition, there is a lower satisfaction level in circumferences related with apparel fit, especially in the sleeve length, armhole, and crotch length. Therefore, a size system is needed that considers various body types in ready-to-wear clothing for middle-aged women. Design, color, and pattern are most important in clothing purchases by unmarried women, but the ease of laundry management and price discounts are the most significant for clothing purchases by married women. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the size-fit of sleeve length and shoulder width, but the lower part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the circumference of the waist, hip, abdominal, girth of skirt, and crotch length. The rectangular body type and the lower part of the body-development type are unsatisfactory in movement comfort, especially in hip girth and crotch length. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the movement comfort of the chest and elbow girth.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.771-786
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• 2020

This study aims to develop a life-friendly, wrap-one-piece style dance sports practice wear considering the physical characteristics of middle-aged, abdominally obese women. These types of practice wear allow people to enjoy exercise easily and to wear these garments as daily wear while meeting the requirements for dance sports wear. The three participants selected for this study were all women with five or more years of dance sports experience and were all average sized on Korea's abdominal obesity scale. In the first phase of the study, practice wear was created in a total of nine styles with three different styles of neckline depths for three different styles of dress skirt lengths. In the second phase of the study, the practice wear was created in 15 styles with five different styles of sleeve lengths for three different styles of waistline heights. After analyzing the design preferences of the participants, the fit preferences of the designs were evaluated and the final appearance was analyzed in order to suggest a pattern. The results of the subjects' first and second preference evaluations showed a preference for a 10 centimeter neckline depth, for high waistlines, and for elbow to wrist-length sleeves. The implementation of this research is expected to be extensive, as its results can be used as basic data for making lifestyle dance sports practice wear that covers the physical insecurities of middle-aged, abdominally obese women and enables them to enjoy their leisure time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.235-243
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• 2003

This study is to figure out where the current satisfaction with ready-to-wear clothes based on middle-aged women's body shapes is at and to propose basic considerations in its production for coming up with a better sizing system to maximize customer's satisfaction. The data obtained from measurement and questionnaire by 126 middle- aged (35-59) women which were located in Gwangju. Followings are summary of this research, 1)The satisfaction level with lower -wear is relatively lower-wear than that of upper-wear in most parts of body. 2) The results by way of putting score show three different groups. Group 1 has characteristics of front body silhouette in the small ratio of shoulder width/bust width, shoulder width/waist width and big ratio of shoulder width/hip width. And Group 3 has characteristics of front silhouette, small ratio of hip girth/thigh girth. Group 2 has a standard shape. 3) The satisfaction level with lower-wear based on middle-aged women's body shapes shows slight difference. In this category, Group 2 has higher satisfaction level than that of Group 1, while Group 1 has better shape than Group 3. 4) The items of clothes which should be considered current less satisfaction on their size and pattern are skirt and pants. In the meantime, specific body parts for the same criteria are hip girth, thigh girth. And the 43.7% of middle-aged women who responded to this study requires improvement on the fit of lower-wear.