• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2012

This study has purpose to understanding recent trends and image effect of textile in fashion by looking to dyeing technique and aesthetics of diffusing image pattern. Further the study will hope to provide basic data for fashion and textile designer fashion. The methods of this study are academic literatures as well as practical study through case studies about actual works. Dyeing techniques and aesthetics of diffusing image pattern since 2000 fashion collection and their results are as follows. First, Dyeing techniques of diffusing image pattern are wet-dyeing and printing. There are plangi dyeing, salt dyeing, alcohol dyeing and ikat dyeing in the wet-dyeing and spray dyeing, discharge dyeing in the printing. There are tie-dyeing, rumpling-dyeing and plank-dyeing in the plangi. Second, Forming of the diffusing image pattern are due to uneven seeping and the contingency of a chemical reaction by reducing the pressure and intensity. Third, Aesthetics of diffusing image pattern are extracted purity missing childhood, fantasy escaping facts of the situation and abstraction representing informal world from formative characteristics of diffusing image pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.77-77
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

In order to convey exactly what a work is intended to project, it is necessary to select appropriate materials, those whose features are suitable for the work to be accomplished. Among the recent trends in dyeing involve the use of the designers' own techniques and a variety of materials, as well as the designers' efforts at promoting the value of plastic art. According I choose splendid butterfly patterns that diversity in shape and color, among nature patterns offer unlimited imaginative power. I designed the fabric pattern, using tie dyeing, cone dyeing, transfer dyeing and rub dyeing that can best express my intentions. Therefore a total of four works were designed with aesthetically appealing revised shapes of a butterfly, using materials developed using the same method, to suggest the possibility of creating a new design while maintaining the original beauty of plastic art.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.665-671
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• 2006

This study is to develop tourist souvenir which designed image of butterfly, the symbol of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival, using natural dyeing product, the specialty of Namdo region. Results of market survey of tourist souvenirs for Hampyeong Butterfly festival showed that souvenirs of butterfly design sold in market which were not discriminated from that of general products and locality or characteristic of the region could not be exhibited. According to the results of market survey, design of souvenirs of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival is as follows; Butterfly pattern of hinge and Dangcho pattern are developed to graphic motive of modern sense with traditional beauty to make design which can be consumed by modern consumers in their actual life and then proper pattern is planned by combining, repeating and disassembling them. Such a pattern is applied to souvenirs like T-shirts, necktie and scarf to make tourists feel identity and unification of the festival visually. In addition, design of souvenirs was made to be coordinated with casuals. Therefore, visual factor could be extracted from Korean cultural heritages suitable to concept of local festivals and it is considered that ways of commercialization and development of traditional pattern suitable to consumers' demands can be suggested.