• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.803-809
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• 2006

Korean traditional paper 'Hanji' made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree is a good handicraft material because of its high viscosity, durability, dyeability, toughness, flexibility, plasticity, and manipulability. Hanji has been used as a textile material such as cotton wool for protection and keeping us warm from cold weather. However, Hanji has many limitations, while other textile materials have many advantages of such as washability, being sunproof, and fast coloring. The purpose of this study is to review physical properties, formation ability, and dyeability of Hanji as a material of fashion accessary. The contents of this study are composed of 5 parts: 1. To introduce the necessities of this study, 2. To review a historical background of Hanji and to identify its physical characteristics as a fashion accessary material, 3. To review and to compare techniques such as bonding, quilting, knitting, creasing and holding, twisting, folding & braiding, paper pasting, coloring & cutting, and outwashing(?) in making Hanji fashion accessaries, 4. To review dyeing and finishing techniques to increase commercial value, 5. To identify the best fashion accessary materials made of Hanji. The most important characteristics of Hanji as a fashion accessary material are its toughness in a wet state, fast color fixing, and flexibility. Especially weaving and knitting are considered as the most desirable techniques to make fashion accessary products stronger and more practical.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.670-676
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• 2016

In this study, we analyzed the utensils, covers and mats that were used for making meju, the shape of meju, and the heating method used for making meju from the 225 ways of preparing jang mentioned in the 32 volumes of the ancient cook books from 530 AD to 1950. The heating method of traditional meju bean and starch included 57 kinds of steaming, 59 of boiling, 21 of roasting + boiling, and 2 of cooking. The shape of meju included 41 kinds of egg, 27 of ball, 22 of lump, a kind of doughnut, 8 kinds of hilt, 6 of flat, 4 of chip, and a kind of square. Among the 72 gochoojang meju, the heating method of bean included 9 kinds of boiling, and 6 kinds of steaming; whereas the heating method of starch included 19 kinds of steaming of dough, 11 of rice cooking, and 5 of boiling of dough. The utensils for molding of bean meju were 49 kinds of straw sack, 14 of round straw container, 11 of heating bed, 7 of large straw bowl or Japanese-snailseed, 5 of jar, 4 of ditch, 3 of straw bowls, 2 of pottery steamer of dough, 2 of gourd, and a kind of long round bamboo bowl and sack of straw. The cover and the mat used for molding of meju included 36 kinds of straw, 17 kinds of paper mulberry leaf, 15 of wide straw seat, 14 of mugwort, 11 of pine tree leaf, 10 of soybean leaf, 6 of cocklebur leaf, 6 of sumac leaf, 6 of barley straw, 6 of mulberry leaf, 5 of fallen leaf, 5 of cogon grass, 4 of reed seat, 3 of scrap of cloth, 2 of Indian bean tree leaf, a kind of reed. There were only 5 kinds of hanging.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.13
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• pp.81-95
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• 1992

The old books which have been colored to brown spots were analyzed chemically to compare with white part. The original raw materials were paper mulberry (Broussonetia Kazine) and woodpulp. White part contained58.8%($\alpha$-37.2%,$\beta$-8.6%, $\gamma$-12.7%)cellulose, 21.7% hemicellulose, 19.8% lignin,4.4% pentosan and brown sopt part contained 49.1%($\alpha$-19.8%, $\beta$-14.5%,$\gamma$-14.8%) cellulose, 27.1% hemicellulose, 23.8% lignin, 4.8% pentosan. Both of brown spot and white parts contained starch without protein. The pH was 4.9 in brown and 5.0 in white part respecitively. The brown spot parts were more solidified than white parts according to SEM observation. Difference of organiccompinent in brown part came from white part were 2-hydroxy-benzaldehydeand phenol.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.835-848
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• 2015

In the past, Korea had many kinds of jeupjang (succulent jang), a rapidly maturing original Korean jang (fermented soybean paste) of which there is no record in Chinese cookbooks. However, this local delicacy has almost been forgotten. Therefore, we looked for information about jeupjang in cookbooks written prior to the Joseon Dynasty in Korea (1392~1910) and in the 1950s. Among the recipes, there were 34 jeupjangs prepared with vegetables, such as eggplant and cucumber, and 9 without. The main ingredients of jeupjang are soybean, bran (wheat crust), and barley, and wild wheat is also used. Jeupjang is made in small portions to expedite its rapid maturation, but the most common form is egg-shaped, and there is also a flat or round, hilt-shaped version. In most cases, jeupjang consists of a mixture of meju powder (moldy soybean), water, and salt. Other ingredients can include nuruk (moldy bran), bran, wheat flour, an alcoholic beverage, maljang (dried fermented soybeans), ganjang (liquid soy sauce), malt, and takju (Korean murky wine). Jeupjang meju can be fermented in a vessel, most widely in baskets made of straw (sum and dungumi) or willow or interwoven twigs (chirung), but jars can also be used. The leaves of the paper mulberry are generally used for the mat and cover, but straw or leaves of the sumac, mulberry, or pine tree, soy, and fallen leaves are also used. Unlike other jangs, jeupjang is matured at $60^{\circ}C$ to $65^{\circ}C$, using heat emitted from the decomposition of horse dung, haystacks, or manure. Jeupjang became defunct or was transformed into jeomjang, jiraejang, mujang, paggeumjang, makjang, jipjang, and tojang. These jangs differ from jeupjang in that they use rice, malt, or hot pepper powder.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.37-44
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• 2021

Mulberry silkworm is classified into uni, bi and multivoltine based on the frequency of diapause incidence. The variation in the incidence of diapause in bivoltine silkworm provides a unique opportunity to study the process of evolution of adaptive plasticity towards seasonal variations. The diapause expression in bivoltine silkworm is highly variable and is determined by environmental factors experienced by the maternal generation. Diapause in natural populations is functionally associated with the overwintering mechanism that facilitates survival in harsh winter conditions. In contrast, under standard commercial rearing conditions, the domesticated bivoltine silkworm is known to enter diapause in every generation. This paper presents a short review of the literature dealing with the role of temperature, photoperiod, diapause hormone and its receptor in diapause induction. Also, we briefly review the incidence of non-diapause eggs in bivoltine silkworm under controlled conditions.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2004

With the emergence and development of ecological engineering in China, and also the research and demonstration of Chinese Ecological Agriculture (CEA), in recent 10 years many types of ecological engineering have been appeared in Southern China, they could be classified into 4 typical patterns. These typical patterns are; 1. Ecological Building (EB), such as ecological public toilet, ecological garden, ecological integrated building, farmers' ecological household, the combine of ecological building and CEA; 2. Ecological Engineering in Paddy Field (EEPF), like rice-fish system, water caltrop-wild ricestem-fish system, mulberry-silkworm-pig-fish system; 3. Ecological Engineering of Agroforestry Systems (EEAF), as tea-food crops intercropping system, rubber-tea-chicken system, bamboo-chicken system, fruit tree-chicken system, metasequoia-fish-duck system; 4. Ecological Engineering Linked with Biogas (EELB), such as animal (pig)-biogas-fish system, animal (pig)-biogas-fruit tree system, animal-biogas-food crops system. Some case studies were presented in the paper. It is showed that these typical patterns have better ecological, social and economic benefits, now they are deeply been extending in southern China.

• Journal of Agricultural Extension & Community Development
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.121-154
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• 2014

This study explores standardization plans concerning industrialization of Hanjii which is traditional culture resources of rural community. Hanji is very useful in many ways, and its usefulness is not confined to only paper. In other words, it comes to have architectural uses, agricultural uses, clothing uses, and medical uses through fusion and convergence. However, the expansion of Hanji market dose not lead to profits for related stake holders because its standardization is not nurtured yet. For standardization, this paper argues, first, a industrial definition of Hanji is needed in which Hanji's own characteristics is involved. Besides maintaining traditional characteristics, the definition and quality standards of Hanji needs to be established by considering a given condition of Hanji industy. Second, a satisfactory method to measure Hanji's own material characteristics(i.g., mulberry paper content and long-term sustainability), which affects Hanji's quality, needs to be developed and standardized. Third, a government standard is urgently needed in order to keep consumers from being confused when they select Hanji products. The standardization of Hanji products and technology needs to be established in both case of current Hanji market and newly developed products and technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-31
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• 1981

Rootability of the hardwood cuttings of mulberry was related not only histological characteristics but dependent on biochemical properties. In this connection, the characteristics of the hardwood cuttings were histologically observed and the growth substances produced by the cuttings were also identified by means of mung bean bioassay. Amino acid, carbohydrate, nucleic acid contents, and the C/N ratio were also analysed. The results are summarized as follows. 1. There were differences in rootability of cuttings between mulberry species and varieties Among the three mulberry species tested, Morus Lhou Koidz. showed the highest rootability while M. bombycis showed the lowest one. In varietal differences in rootability, it was shown that the varieties could be grouped according to rootability: high varieties(above 80%), medium(41~79%), and low(below 40%). The higher varieties were Kemmochi, Nakamaki, Kosen, and Wusuba roso. 2. The histological characteristic of the hardwood cuttings most closely related to rootability was cell layer arrangement in the sclerenchyma tissue. The lower rootability varieties developed two or three overlapping cell layers in the bark tissue and in the higher rootability varieties they were scattered over the primary cortex. 3. In the higher rootability varieties, there was a positive correlation between the development of root primodia and rootability of the hardwood cuttings. It was also shown that there was a close relationship between the size of primodia and the surface area of the lenticel with rootability of the cuttings. 4. Effect of growth substances extracted from the hardwood cuttings were determined by mung bean bioassay. The higher rootability varieties usually showed higher activities of the growth substances, in contrast the lower rootability varieties showed higher activities of the inhibitory substances. 5. It was evident that the substance separated by paper chromatography was identified as indole acetic acid with $R_f$ value ranging from 0.3 to 0.5. The other substances detected at a $R_f$ value ranging from 0.8 to 1.0 and origin to 0.1 were also responsible for rooting. 6. There exists a quantitatively different distribution of growth substances in a synergistic system in the tissues of cuttings, and the balance between growth and inhibitory substances gives rise to the development of rooting. Particularly, no descent of the substances from winter buds resulted in no rooting of cuttings but these substances were produced a week after planting in a warm environment. 7. It was shown that there were positive correlations between carbohydrate ($r=0.72^*$) and total sugar ($r=0.67^*$) and rootability, respectively, but there were negative correlations between reducing sugars ($r=-0.75^*$) and rootability. 8. High C/N ratio gave rise to high rootability($r=0.67^*$). The latter therefore depended on high amount of carbohydrate rather than nitrogen in the cuttings. 9. The content of RNA and DNA in the cuttings was not changed for upto two weeks after the cuttings were planted. Then an increase in RNA content took place in only the high rootability varieties. 10. There were quantitative and qualitative differences in the compositions of the amino acids between the high rootability varieties and the low rootability varieties. More aspartic acid and cystine were found in the higher rootability varieties than in the low rootability varieties.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.245-257
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• 2018

To investigate the deterioration of textiles with metal thread, I surveyed 40 textile objects, dating from the 11th to the 19th century from Korea, China, Japan, and Central Asia at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. This survey included various types, widths, and thicknesses of metal thread. In addition, deterioration was examined under the microscope and color information was collected using the spectrophotometer. While investigating metal thread in the collections, I fabricated 12 different types of metal samples with metal leaf(24K gold, silver, and copper leaf), adhesive (hide animal glue and a mixture of hide animal glue and iron oxide red), and paper substrate(Korean mulberry and Taiwanese kozo paper). The accelerated deterioration process of those fabricated samples was carried out using a light box(UV and daylight), and a humidity cabinet. In the light experiment with blue scales textile fading card(aka, blue wool standard), the metal leaf began to peel off during the deterioration process with 756,000 lux-hours UV and daylight. In the temperature and humidity experiment, I could observe the reddish tarnish on copper, and some part of it began to peel off. Color reading on the light exposed samples showed that the degree of color change on the surface follows the amount of exposure as it increased over time. On the other hand, color change on the samples after artificial deterioration using temperature and humidity factors showed random change of color with occasional spikes. Distortion of original shape worsened in the samples exposed to temperature and humidity.