• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1359-1371
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by $[TC]^2$ body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.25-36
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• 2007

As the materials being used in children's clothing become diverse, the number of reported problems related to various aspects of washing and wearing is increasing. Many customers experience great dissatisfaction when using these children's garments due to their lack of professional knowledge in washing, fabric, and detergents. Thus, this paper focuses on various cases in which housewives have experienced product damage after washing their children's garments according the prescribed directions. Of particular interest is how the consumers respond to such damage in garments and how their experiences with garment damage affect the sellers of these garments. A total of 292 housewives with children less than 8 years old living in Seoul responded to our survey, out of which 83 reported to have suffered negative consequences. By analyzing the 83 responses, the following results were found: First, the problems reported by the housewives in regards to washing children's garments were mostly related to the durability or color change problems. Secondly, the most favored means of response to garment damage were 'complaining directly to the seller' (16.7%) and 'complaining at the customer service department of the manufacturer or seller' (13.5%). Thirdly, among the actions they requested to the seller/manufacturer, 'ask for an exchange' marked the highest. Lastly, respondents admitted that their experiences with garment damage as well as the attitude or response of the manufacturer/retailer to their complaints would influence their repurchase intention.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.189-194
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• 2014

Drape property, one of the dynamic properties, is significant element of appearance and silhouette of garment. There are two methods of measuring drape property: objective method and subjective method. The purpose of this study is to search convenient method of measuring drape property which affects the appearance of garment. The method of this study was as below: First, the drape properties of ten various fabrics were measured within both of professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument. Second, Pearson's correlation coefficient was analyzed in order to analyze the correlation of two results of the experiments. This study used professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument on ten samples. Both of the results from the paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument were very similar in terms of drape property. Significant correlation between results of the professional paper ring and visual handy method indicates the efficiency of the visual handy measuring at school or work environment etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.109-116
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• 2004

This paper describes a cloth simulation system for dressing 3D virtual human model with different pieces of clothing. The garments are constructed of cutting patterns seamed together. The system reads a body file and a cutting pattern file and produces a new model dressed with the specified garment by using a physical simulation based on a mass-spring model. For the realistic cloth simulation, it performs collision detection and response between triangles of the 3D human model and the garment. Because the number of triangles of a human model is very large. the collision detection and response requires a lot of time. To overcome this problem, we propose a pruning method which decreases the number of collision detection and response by a space-subdivision method. Experimental results show that the system produces realistic images and makes it possible to sew a garment around a virtual human body in several seconds.

• Proceedings of the Korean DIstribution Association Conference
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• 1999.11a
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• pp.161-177
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• 1999

Marketing channels have been characterized as social systems by the recent channel literatures. Under this assumption, many channel behavioral theories were developed by examining hypothetical relationships among several channel variables. Among them, interrelationship of channel cooperation with other variables has been one of major concerns to channel managers. From this point of view, the objective of this paper is to examine the role of cooperation in the franchise system of garments goods. In order to achieve our goal, data was collected from garment retailers and a simple random sample of 150 dealers was drawn and tested. Major findings through the data analysis are as follows : 1. Higher levels of dependence lead to higher levels of cooperation. 2. Noncoercive sources of power tends to increase intrachannel cooperation. However, the hypothesis that higher levels of coercive sources of power will lead to lower levels of cooperation was not statistically supported. 3. Another hypothesis that higher levels of conflict will lead to lower levels of cooperation was partially supported. 4. Higher levels of cooperation lead to higher levels of cooperation. In this study, data was gathered from the retail side of the franchise channel dyad for garments goods. Therefore, future research are suggested to investigate respondents of both sides(franchiser and franchisee) of the channel dyad.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.31-51
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• 2013

Hawaiian textile art has inspired artists and fashion designers worldwide and accounts for the high value of vintage Hawaiian apparel as collectibles. Other than tropical designs, a large portion of the textile art showcased the ethnic diversity of Hawai'i. In the 1800s, Hawai'i attracted immigrants from all over Asia, and the majority of Hawaii's residents today claim Asian ethnicity. This ethnic mix was made visible in textiles, a trend championed by Alfred Shaheen, an apparel manufacturer who loved Asian designs. He was committed to the celebration of cultural diversity at a time when Hawai'i was rapidly westernizing. The team of Asian textile artists he led created textile designs based on motifs and imagery from Asia. Shaheen's passionate vision led to the unique textiles produced in the 'golden age' of Hawaiian textiles, from 1940 through the 1960s. Alfred Shaheen has been called "Hawaii's Master Printer" and has been credited for turning Hawaiian textiles into art. The author's interviews with Mr. Shaheen were conducted over a decade, and form the basis for this paper in which Shaheen's own words are used to discuss his use of textile art in the transformation of the Hawaiian textiles and garment industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.