Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.35
no.9
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pp.1049-1059
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2011
This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.
The purpose of this study was to analyze and determine the relationship between physiological responses including blood flow rate and garment pressure, and the feeling of restrictive tightness associated with the wearing skinny pants as a popular clothing style. Evaluation was based on material type, posture and activity type, and body part location. Five female college students took part in this research. Five kinds of experimental clothes with waist measurements of 66cm were chosen. An analysis of the selected skinny pants demonstrated the degree of the whole looseness was higher in this order: clothing type A>B>D>C, and E with E being knitted cloth. Garment pressure was the highest in the front knee portions and was lowest in the outside thigh region. Garment pressure was highest in this sequence : clothing type C>=D>A>=B>E. In terms of posture and activity types, garment pressure was the highest when research participants were crouching, and was the lowest when standing. The blood flow rate was highest in this order: clothing type E>D>B>A>C. Type C skinny pants impeded blood flow and demonstrated the tightest and most restrictive relationship. Blood flow rate varied depending on the type of movement and was highest in this order: getting up, rowing, kicking, jumping and O-shaped leg posture. The results of subjective pressure evaluation demonstrated that pressure was highest in this order: E>=C>B>A>D. These results suggests the need to improve on the patterns and the material design in the area of the front knees. The degree of the looseness when wearing skinny pants did not always correspond to garment pressure or subjective sensation.
A study using compare and analyze about differences among three basic pants patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of comparison about total pants pattern shape, the ESMOD have two tucks of front and one dart of back and the Secoli and On&on have each dart of front and back. The results of estimation about total appearance, the On&on is the best of all pattern about total silhouette of front and back side and the ESMOD is the worst of all. In a case of the ESMOD, the thigh part has so many spaces between body and pants so it is rated low. When we examine about space between body and pants, amount of air gap of ESMOD is 0.6 at waist circumference and next is On&on(0.07). In case of hip circumference, the Secoli is 0.08 and the ESMOD is 0.14. The ESMOD's amount of air gap is 0.32 at thigh circumference and 0.62 at knee circumference. The Secoli's amount air gap is 0.26 at thigh circumference and 0.59 at knee circumference.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.1
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pp.129-143
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1997
This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.
This study aims to discuss the image making of K-pop girl groups to provide an outlook on the necessary fashion components in order to express certain concepts by analyzing the fashion styles. The fashion styles of the representative girl groups from 2007 to 2011 were classified into five types: retro style, schoolgirl style, chic style, sporty style and marine style. The following are the features and elements of image making by style. The retro style pursued going back to the past. It used stripes, dots, leopard patterns, spangles and denim. It reproduced the style of the past to the trendy style using big sunglasses, retro makeup, girlish hair and gold wigs. The schoolgirl style created the sexy or cute image by using school uniforms as the motif including shirts, short pants and knee socks. It included having natural makeup and straight hair and differentiated colors, patterns and designs. The chic style was classified into rock chic look and sexy look. Both looks had common elements including smoky pop active makeup while the fashion concepts and hair styles were different. The sporty style took the concept of cheer girls. It used plaid shirts, baseball jackets, short pants, thigh high boots, vivid hair accessories, romantic makeup and straight, wave hair. The marine style took the naval uniform as the motif. It expressed the image using short pants, stripe patterns, wappens, naval caps and smoky sexy makeup, straight hair. K-pop girl group fashion is the driving force for the growth of Korean fashion industry as well as its cultural trends and hope that it have a growing influence on the global market and trend through continuing research and support.
Objective: This study aimed to analyze somatotype characteristics of the women of 20's, 30's 40's and 50's and thus to provide the basis for developing pants patterns by the age groups. Background: Despite many previous researches for the somatotype characteristics of adult women, few studies have considered age groups. Method: The data of the $5^{th}$ anthropometry by Size Korea were analyzed for the purpose. The 32 direct body measurements and the 32 indexes of 2,213 women aged 20~59 were analyzed. In order to compare somatotype characteristics among the age groups, an ANOVA and a Tukey test were used. Results: The women in 20's were the tallest among the age groups, and had the smallest waist circumference and hip circumference. Their waist breadths were also the narrowest. They had a slim and long body type but their calves were relatively thick. The 30's women were smaller, shorter with the height and length items than the 20's were. They were bigger, wider and deeper with the circumference, breadth and depth items than the 20's were and they were heavier. On the other hand, their hip circumference and crotch length were in the same group as the women in 20's. The crotch length(omphalion) of the 40's women was the longest among all the age groups and the crotch length(natural indentation) of the 40's women was in the same as the women in 50's. The women in 50's were the smallest and heaviest among all the age groups. The difference between their hip circumferences and waist circumferences was the smallest. They had an obese abdomen and sagged hips. Conclusions: The somatotype characteristics of the age groups were significantly different, and thus it is suggested to develop skirt and pants patterns for each age group. Application: The skirt and pants patterns for the somatotype characteristics of the women by age groups will be developed through the body feature data of this study.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.2
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pp.276-287
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2009
Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.
This study identified design elements of the functions required for children's ski pants. Data for this study were collected through questionnaire surveys conducted among children's ski instructors and children's sportswear developers. Five functionalities of children's skiwear were evaluated: mobility, stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. A total of 25 functional design elements related to the patterns, design details, and physical characteristics of fabrics for ski garments, were evaluated. The results of this study are as follows. First, children's sportswear developers evaluated that the pattern elements were important. Most of the pattern design elements highly related to mobility. Children's ski instructors' appraisal was that the height of the back waist was the important feature. Second, regarding the design details, children's ski instructors evaluated the size adjustment function and ventilation system as important elements. Many design detail elements were highly related in respect of stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. Third, the physical characteristics of fabric were strongly associated with mobility, comfort, and protection. As regards the physical characteristics of fabric, children's ski instructors valued anti-fouling highly, but children's sportswear developers attached more importance to the weight of the fabric. The results of this study will be useful in designing functional ski pants for children of elementary and intermediate ski levels. Since there may be limitations related to the ski level and age of children wearing ski pants, it is suggested that follow-up studies according to various groups of the ski pant wearers should be done.
The author distributed the questionaires which ask the idea of the purchase of children's clothes in order to help the emotinal development of children and to raise demostic economy. 89% of those who answered realized the necessity of home sewing. Because of the lack of sewing ability(66%), the author made comparatively easy patterns such as blouses for summer, skirts, short pants and one-piece dresses. To populrize these patterns, the aother used the measurements of body-measurement which were made by Korea Institute of Standard. The author studied the patterns and choice of patterns according to growing body. The author tested the clothes worn and visual evaluation for fitness of the patterns. The results are as follows: First; The author developed basic pattern 1 and 2 and applied to design A, B and C. Second: For every design, the author made patterns fit to the children. Third: According to age, the author curtailed or enlarged patterns. Lastly: The author tried to reduce living expenses through making children's clothes using the sewing machine and supress over-consumption and lead the people toward normal economic life.
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