• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.146-150
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• 2005

In this paper, friction of air-jet textured yams is investigated. Using a friction measuring apparatus fabricated inhouse, dynamic friction forces of the yams under yarn-to-metal (YM) and yam-to-yam (YY) rubbing modes are measured. The influence of processing variables of air-jet texturing viz., overfeed, air pressure, dry/wet texturing and normal/core-and-effect texturing on dynamic friction is analysed. The results indicate that friction force increases with increasing rubbing speeds and yam input tension. YM dynamic friction decreases initially and then starts to increase at higher overfeeds. YY dynamic friction increases with increasing overfeed. YM dynamic friction decreases with an increase in air pressure while an opposite trend is observed for YY friction. Wet textured yams have higher friction than dry textured yams. Core wetted coreand-effect textured yams have higher friction than normal textured yams.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.47-55
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• 2013

Physical properties of the composite yarn using low-melting(LM) polyester/Tencel were investigated with air-jet texturing conditions such as temperature, take-up overfeed, yarn speed and air pressure. Surface morphology, microstructure, tensile property, glossiness were evaluated. Surface morphology of a composite yarn had more damaged and loosened structure according to increase of take-up overfeed, yarn speed and air pressure. Crystallinity was affected by parameters such as temperature, yarn speed, take-up overfeed and air pressure and especially, yarn speed was most effective for increase of crystallinity. Also, it was found that temperature and air pressure had significantly affected tensile properties of a composite yarn. The glossiness of yarn increased with increase of temperature, yarn speed and air pressure.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.11-22
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• 2009

This study surveys the optimum processing conditions of ATY for PET braiding for automotive hoses. For this purpose, high tenacity and low shrinkable PET filaments with three types of deniers are prepared. Twenty seven ATY specimens are manufactured with variation of feed speed and overfeed on the air jet texturing machine. The physical properties of various yam according to the ATY processing conditions are measured and analysed for deciding the optimum ATY processing condition. Two kinds of ATY filaments made under the optimum air texturing conditions are processed with variation of tpm, heat setting temperature and heat setting time on the 2-for-l twister and setting chamber, respectively. The optimum twisting and heat setting conditions are decided through analysis of the yam physical properties. Finally, the braiding fabric specimens are manufactured using conventional filament and newly developed filament made under optimum twisting and heat setting conditions. The bursting strengths of these braiding specimens are compared and discussed between two types of specimens.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
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• pp.65-65
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• 2012

The air texturing공정은 노즐에서 전달되는 초음속 에어기류에 의해 overfeed를 수반하여 yarn속 fiber가 뒤얽혀 loop와 crimp를 발달시키는데, 고강력 고탄성율 고내열성 내절단성 등의 특성을 가지는 아라미드섬유를 에어 가공사로 가공 할 경우 가공 전 필라멘트 상태일 때 보다 표면에 생기는 loop로 인하여 촉감이 좋아지고 또한 타 소재와 접착 시 접착제 담지 성능이 향상 되어 접착력이 상승되고, 이를 통해 보강재로서의 기능이 강화되는 반면 역학물성이 기존의 아라미드 보다 저하되는 약점을 가지고 있어 최근 ATY 공정조건이 ATY 사의 구조와 물성변화에 미치는 영향에 대한 많은 연구결과가 발표되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Aiki air jet texturing machine에서 $Heracron^{(R)}$ para-aramid(840, 1000d, 1500d)를 사용하여 ATY nozzle의 직경을 0.6, 0.75, 1, 1.2mm로 변화를 주어 12개의 para-aramid ATY 시료를 제조하여 이들의 섬도, 강신도, 초기탄성률, 열수축률 그리고 형태불안정성(instability)등의 물성변화를 분석하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 노즐의 직경이 증가함에 따라 사 내의 filament간의 움직임이 자유로워 교락이 증가하고 루프가 형성되어 단위길이 당 mass가 커지므로 섬도가 미세하게 증가하는 것을 볼 수 있다. 또한 직경이 증가할수록 절단강도와 초기탄성률은 감소하고 절단신도가 증가하는 경향을 볼 수 있는데 이는 축 방향으로의 배열이 적어져 하중을 분담하는 portion이 감소하고 사의 loop형성이 많아짐으로서 상대적으로 인장력에 대응하는 fiber의 수가 적어지기 때문으로 사료된다. 이는 현미경 관찰로 확인할 수 있는데 직경이 증가함에 따라 사의 loop의 엉킴이 증가하고 filament가 조밀한 것을 확인할 수 있다. 직경 변화에 따른 건 습열 수축률은 1% 미만의 매우 낮은 값으로 영향을 받지 않는 것을 확인 할 수 있는데 para-aramid의 열적특성의 안정성에 기인하는 것으로 사료되며 ATY의 불안정성은 노즐 직경 증가에 따른 어떤 경향성을 찾아볼 수 없었지만 840d, 1000d, 1500d로 섬도가 증가함에 따라 사의 불안정성이 증가하였다.