• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.37-49
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• 2003

In the oral literature of the Mongolians such as folk-tales, legend, epics, poetry, songs, riddles etc., there are endless examples describing various stories about the origin of the costumes, ornaments and accessories, or the way how they were designed and changed with the times and how they correspond with relevant customs, public rituals and etiquette in general. In this paper we argue that every piece of the Mongolian national costumes and wear in general has specific meaning and symbolism, which is still the miraculous universe waiting to be unveiled properly. As for the Mongolians, the costumes and accessories mean the treasury of intellectual culture of their own as well as their daily necessities of life. There are still many undiscovered features of ancient national culture, apart from characteristics of various tribes and clans of the Mongolians.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.51-70
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is not to look at the history of traditional accessories or the characteristics of their shapes but to discern imitations ￡Tom authentic items by exploring imitations of traditional accessories-- many of which were made in the late 20th century -- from private museums and university museums in order to help scholars assess relics. Among many kinds of accessories in the Joseon dynasty, only norigae, one of the representative accessories, and women hair ornaments are selected for this study since many of the relics have been recovered to date. Given this, this study will consider firstly the general history of norigae and women's hair ornaments, and secondly, prove several examples as relics from the late 20th century while they are marked as relics from the Joseon dynasty by comparing authentic items. Thirdly, among the imitations of the late 20th century, this study will find those so-called "original" imitations whose production origins are unidentified Fourthly, this study will explore the imitations, which were influenced by the influx of items and materials from China. It is important to discern low-quality relics as well as to correct the production time. Some producers exercised their creativity and made relics non-native to Korea. These relics shouldn't be presented at international exhibitions. Restored relics should be noted so and their quality should be equal to the authentic items. It is suggested that relics without the identity and quality of native Korean relics not baffle cultural interchanges and enhance national glory.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.640-651
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• 2000

In this Paper we examined the clothing & ornaments of Egyptian gods greatly related to religion in a mode of every living through illustrated data of relics and investigated their differences and similarities by comparing the clothing & ornaments of gods with one of royal families. First of all, the crown of gods shows various forms in accordance with is roles and symbols. Second, the clothing & ornaments of male gods is significantly different from one of king in that for the most part they wore loin-cloth and girdle on sheath-skirt. Third, goddess was wearing the same sheath-skirt as queen. Fourth, kalasiris which king and queen wore is not almost founded in costume of gods. Fifth, the typical accessories in Egypt, that is, passiums, bracelets and rings are founded in the clothing and ornaments of all gods. Sixth, gods seems not to be dressed in sandals. Seventh, a mustache of king is appeared in a form of large and straight line, but one of god is appeared in a form of small and bended line. Eighth, lion tale ornament and fail are founded in the clothing & ornaments of male god mainly and a stick is founded in one of goddess. Finally, ankh which is representative of eternal life is an ornament only gods are wearing.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.69-74
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• 2023

패턴을 활용한 디자인의 방법들은 다양한 디자인 분야에서 활용이 되고 있다. 효용성이나 결과 또한 많은 발전을 하여 디자인에 있어서는 패턴이 없어서는 안 될 중요한 부분을 차지하고 있다. 장신구 디자인에 패턴은 자주 활용되고 다양한 기법으로 사용한다. 그러나, 장신구 디자인에는 공예적인 제작기법의 특성상 시간적인 제약과 집중력의 과다 등으로 패턴을 이용하고 그 패턴을 반복하고 배열하는 방식 활용에 많은 제약이 따른다. 그러므로, 본 연구에서는 장신구를 디자인에 있어서 전통적인 공예방식을 같이 겸비하며, 패턴의 응용과 반복, 그리고 패턴의 배열을 컴퓨터 프로그램으로 디자인하여 장신구 제작에 활용하고자 한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.82-99
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제10권11호
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• pp.603-612
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• 2012

한나라의 전통적 사상은 그 나라의 지리적 환경, 종교사상 등에서 그들의 의식구조를 알 수 있고 유적과 유물의 특성에서 그 나라의 문화 양상을 알 수 있다. 우리나라의 문화역사는 5000년을 자랑하고 있으며 그 중에서도 백제시대의 문화는 우리역사상 매우 뛰어난 유물들을 창출 하였다. 백제시대의 장신구는 고구려, 신라시대의 장신구와보다 백제 특유의 문양과 세공기술에 있어 부드럽고 풍만한 아름다운 곡선미를 추구해 왔다. 본 연구에서는 백제시대의 장신구중 관, 관식, 귀걸이, 목걸이, 뒤꽂이 등을 중심으로 장신구의 조형적 특징과 문양에 나타난 상징성에 대하여 연구 하였다. 고구려, 신라와 함께 삼국시대의 장신구를 비교하여 백제장신구를 부각시키기 위해 백제장신구에 대한 자료 수집과 국립부여박물관, 공주박물관, 국내외 전문 서적과 국내 참고문헌 등을 고찰 하였고 논문 등을 통하여 백제 금속공예품의 문양을 중심으로 이미지를 연구 하였다. 백제시대의 역사는 화려하고 찬란한 예술적 문화를 지니고 있었지만, 후대에 오르면서 역사적 자료나 그 내용을 뒷받침해줄 유물이 많이 남아 있지 않아 백제문화에 대한 많은 관심과 연구 개발이 필요한 실정이다. 백제시대의 장신구는 단순한 장신구로써 만의 기능이 아닌 백제인의 정서와 다양하고 창조적인 정신세계가 반영되어 있음을 알 수 있었고 최근 과학 기술의 발달과 산업화 속에 문화컨텐츠라는 요소가 사람들의 인식을 변화시킴으로써 백제문화에 대한 관심을 보이고 있는 만큼 백제시대 문양을 더욱 연구하여 다양하고 새로운 조형적 디자인을 개발함으로써 백제를 널리 알릴 수 있는 계기가 되었으면 하는 것이 본 연구의 목적이다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.679-685
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.15-28
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• 1995

This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

최근 젊은 세대의 전통 복식 체험이나, 퓨전 한복의 일상복화 등의 추세에 따라 한복용 헤어 액세서리의 개발이 필요한 실정이다. 본 논문의 연구 목적은 왕실 여성의 머리 장식을 활용하여 한복과 어울리는 실용적이고 현대적인 헤어 액세서리 디자인을 개발하여 한복 문화를 활용한 패션 콘텐츠 개발의 영역을 확장시키고, 전통 문화의 다양한 경험에 대한 수요를 충족시키는 것이다. 연구 방법은 문헌연구를 통해서 전통 머리모양 및 영왕비의 전통 장신구들을 조사하였고, 실증연구로 실물을 제작하였다. 제작과정은 먼저 전통 머리모양을 응용하여 나일론 메쉬로 기본 형태를 만들었고, 그 위에 장엄하고 화려한 왕실 유물을 활용한 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 원단을 접목하여 궁극적으로 전통 장신구를 착용한 듯한 트롱프뢰유 기법을 줄 수 있도록 디자인을 설계하였다. 결과적으로 총 6개의 헤어 액세서리 디자인이 완성되었으며, 헤어 밴드, 헤어 핀, 헤어 고무밴드의 구조로 제작하였다. 또한 착용자의 헤어 스타일에 관계 없이 간편하게 착용할 수 있도록 하였고 나일론 메쉬 소재의 특유의 빳빳하면서 유연한 재질을 이용하여 볼륨감 있는 머리 모양을 효과적으로 표현하였는데, 이는 마치 머리카락과도 같은 시각적인 착시 효과를 즐길 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 이러한 연구 결과를 통해 일상의 유희와 희소성 있는 가치를 추구하는 대중들에게도 독특한 미적, 문화적 경험을 제시할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.