• Title/Summary/Keyword: ornaments and accessories

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Mongolian National Costumes Reflected in the Oral Literature and Popular Rituals

  • Shin, Kang;Chultemsuren, R.
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.3
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    • pp.37-49
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    • 2003
  • In the oral literature of the Mongolians such as folk-tales, legend, epics, poetry, songs, riddles etc., there are endless examples describing various stories about the origin of the costumes, ornaments and accessories, or the way how they were designed and changed with the times and how they correspond with relevant customs, public rituals and etiquette in general. In this paper we argue that every piece of the Mongolian national costumes and wear in general has specific meaning and symbolism, which is still the miraculous universe waiting to be unveiled properly. As for the Mongolians, the costumes and accessories mean the treasury of intellectual culture of their own as well as their daily necessities of life. There are still many undiscovered features of ancient national culture, apart from characteristics of various tribes and clans of the Mongolians.

Looking at the Traditional Accessories of the Joseon Dynasty with Wide Opened Eyes - focusing on Norigae and Hair Ornaments for Ladies - (조선시대의 전통장신구를 보는 열린 눈 - 노리개와 여성 수식품을 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, Sook-Whan
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.51-70
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is not to look at the history of traditional accessories or the characteristics of their shapes but to discern imitations £Tom authentic items by exploring imitations of traditional accessories-- many of which were made in the late 20th century -- from private museums and university museums in order to help scholars assess relics. Among many kinds of accessories in the Joseon dynasty, only norigae, one of the representative accessories, and women hair ornaments are selected for this study since many of the relics have been recovered to date. Given this, this study will consider firstly the general history of norigae and women's hair ornaments, and secondly, prove several examples as relics from the late 20th century while they are marked as relics from the Joseon dynasty by comparing authentic items. Thirdly, among the imitations of the late 20th century, this study will find those so-called "original" imitations whose production origins are unidentified Fourthly, this study will explore the imitations, which were influenced by the influx of items and materials from China. It is important to discern low-quality relics as well as to correct the production time. Some producers exercised their creativity and made relics non-native to Korea. These relics shouldn't be presented at international exhibitions. Restored relics should be noted so and their quality should be equal to the authentic items. It is suggested that relics without the identity and quality of native Korean relics not baffle cultural interchanges and enhance national glory.

A Study of the Clothing and Ornaments of God through Egyptian Mythology (이집트 신화를 통하여 본 신의 복식연구)

  • 조진애;손희정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.640-651
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    • 2000
  • In this Paper we examined the clothing & ornaments of Egyptian gods greatly related to religion in a mode of every living through illustrated data of relics and investigated their differences and similarities by comparing the clothing & ornaments of gods with one of royal families. First of all, the crown of gods shows various forms in accordance with is roles and symbols. Second, the clothing & ornaments of male gods is significantly different from one of king in that for the most part they wore loin-cloth and girdle on sheath-skirt. Third, goddess was wearing the same sheath-skirt as queen. Fourth, kalasiris which king and queen wore is not almost founded in costume of gods. Fifth, the typical accessories in Egypt, that is, passiums, bracelets and rings are founded in the clothing and ornaments of all gods. Sixth, gods seems not to be dressed in sandals. Seventh, a mustache of king is appeared in a form of large and straight line, but one of god is appeared in a form of small and bended line. Eighth, lion tale ornament and fail are founded in the clothing & ornaments of male god mainly and a stick is founded in one of goddess. Finally, ankh which is representative of eternal life is an ornament only gods are wearing.

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Design of ornaments using pattern repetition and arrangement (패턴의 반복과 배열을 응용한 장신구 디자인)

  • Ahn, il hoon
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.69-74
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    • 2023
  • The design methods using patterns have been used in various design fields. Both utility and results have also developed a lot, so that patterns occupy an essential parts in designs. Patterns are often used in various techniques in designing ornaments. However, both time and excessive effort concentrations restricted ornaments designs due to the nature of the craft production techniques by repeated patterns. Therefore, in this study, the traditional craft methods are combined by using computer programs in the applications, repetitions, arrangements of patterns for the manufacturing of ornaments.

Renoir's Fashion Colors and Exotic Taste That Must Be Re-Evaluated (재평가되어야할 르누아르의 이국취미와 패션컬러)

  • Lee, KeumHee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.82-99
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

A Study on 'Ipsik' in the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선후기 입식(笠飾)에 대한 연구)

  • Chang, Sook-Whan
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2007
  • This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

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On the Design Characteristics of Ornaments in the Three Kingdom Period (Focused on Baekje's ornaments) (삼국시대 장신구에 나타난 조형적 특징에 관한연구 (백제장신구를 중심으로))

  • Sin, Mi-Young;Park, Seungchul
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.10 no.11
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    • pp.603-612
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    • 2012
  • When it comes to a country's traditional ideas. that country's geographic setting and religious thought show the people's consciousness, and the characteristics of historic sites and relics show their cultural aspects. Our country has 5000-year cultural history. Especially, the Baekje cultural history created very remarkable relics in our history. With regard to Baekje's own patterns and workmanship, their ornaments were more focused on the beauty of soft and voluptuous curves than that of Goguryeo and Silla This study researched design characteristics of ornaments and symbolic aspects of the patterns by focusing on crowns, crowns' accessories, earrings, necklaces, chignon ornaments of the Baekje's ornaments, To put emphasis on Baekje's ornaments by comparing Baekje's ornaments with Goguryeo's and Silla's. This study collected data on Baekje's ornaments, and reviewed domestic references and specialty publications at the Buyeo National Museum, Gong-ju National Museum, home and abroad, and studied the images of Baekje's metal crafts and patterns through theses. Baekje had splendid and glorious artistic culture, but there are not many historical data and supportive relics left these days. Therefore, a lot of attention, researches and development on Baekje culture are needed. This study found that the ornaments of the Baekje era have not only ornament functions but also the people's creative mind. The culture contents in recent technological development and industrialization change people's recognition, and now they have interest in Baekje culture. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to widely popularize Baekje by studying the patterns of the Baekje era more and developing various and new designs.

A Study on the Power Suit Style (파워 수트 스타일에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.679-685
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

The Comparative Study of Costume and Ornaments between Shilla and Uighur (신라복식과 위구르복식의 관계 연구)

  • 한윤숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.24
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 1995
  • This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

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Development of Hair Accessory Designs Using Royal Hair Ornaments (왕실 머리장식을 응용한 헤어 액세서리 디자인 개발)

  • Jinyoung Ryu;Jiyeon Kim
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.83-90
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    • 2023
  • The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.