• Title/Summary/Keyword: official uniforms

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On Ethnic Characteristics of Official Uniforms of Qing Dynasty by Analyzing the Rank System (등급체계 분석을 통한 청조(淸朝) 관복제도의 민족적 특성 연구)

  • Park Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.4 s.152
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    • pp.554-566
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

A Study on the Rank System of Official Uniforms of Qing Dynasty (청조 관복제도의 등급체계에 관한 연구 (제1보))

  • 박현정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 2003
  • This paper investigates the rank system of official uniforms of Qing dynasty to analyze ethnic characteristics of the official uniforms. As a research document, Qing Huidian Tu(청회전도) has been used. The official uniforms of Qing dynasty were chao-fu(조복), ji-fu(길복), chang-fu(상복), hang-fu(행복), and yu-fu(우복), which were used in different occasions. Each of the five official uniforms had distinct items. For example, chao-fu(조복) consisted of four items: chao-guan(조관), chao-fu(조복), chao-dai(조대), and chao-zhu(조주), and ji-fu(길복) consisted of four items: ji-fu-guan(길복관), long-pao(용포), ji-fu-dai(길복대), and chao-zhu(조주). Each of these items had elements that made distinction between ranks. This research shows that the important elements to make distinction between ranks were textiles, precious stones, patterns and colors, and additionally the number of Bo(보) and the types of Bo(보) were used.

A Study on Arguments over the Light Pink Color of Official Uniforms in the Joseon Dynasty (Part I) (조선시대 관복 담홍포 담론 연구 (제1보))

  • Park, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.9
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    • pp.1125-1137
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    • 2011
  • This study investigates when and why the light pink Dan-ryoung appeared as part of the official uniform of the Joseon Dynasty and which official uniform used the light pink color. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, books written by scholars, and related laws were used as research materials. The following results were obtained by analyzing the arguments of kings and officials on light pink uniforms and laws related to official uniforms. 1. Red was the color of the king as well as the color of Dang-sang-gwan's Gong-bok (one of the official uniforms). 2. The colors such as To-hong, Dam-hong, Do-hong, Bun-hong, Cheon-hong that appeared in Sang-bok (among official uniforms) were relatively lighter than red. 3. To-hong started to be used in Sang-bok at the time of King Se-jong and was used at the time of King Seong-jong in Sang-bok because it was the preferred color. 4. In the Joseon Dynasty, safflower (the basis of red color dye) was cultivated extensively; in addition, people liked red dyeing because it was relatively easy apply; subsequently, a ban on red dyeing was continually issued. 5. Kings Se-jong and Jung-jong ordered officials to use Do-hong and Bun-hong to distinguish the red color of the king. After Im-jin-oe-ran, Cheon-hong was officially designated the color of Sang-bok. 6. The reasons why Dam-hong was used in official uniforms were twofold: the preference for red-like colors and the influence of the Confucian hierarchy to distinguish the king.

The Province Official's Roles and Uniforms in the Enshrinement Rituals of the Royal Portrait of King Taejo in the Early Joseon Dynasty -Focused on the 『Sejong Chronicles』- (조선 초기 태조어진 봉안의식에서 관찰사의 역할과 관복 -『세종실록』을 중심으로-)

  • Park, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.5
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    • pp.801-814
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    • 2016
  • This study uses the "Sejong chronicles" ritual manual to investigate the movements and roles of provincial governors during the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait, the official uniforms of the provincial governors in their roles, and the characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the early Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. Provincial governors who participated in the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait were governors 'en route' and governors 'in destination'. The movements of the governor 'en route' followed the provincial borders, official residences, and neighboring provincial borders. The movements of the governor 'in destination' followed the provincial borders, the official residence, and jinjeon. The roles of the governors included the welcoming ceremony, the bow-down ceremony, the front guard, and the farewell ceremony. The governors 'en route' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and a Sibok in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The governor 'in destination' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and Jobok (or Sibok if Jobok was not available) in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, the governors wore different uniforms depending on the importance of the rituals in the early Joseon Dynasty. Second, the names of official uniforms Sang-bok and Si-bok were used interchangeably in the early Joseon Dynasty. Third, local governors were allowed to wear Sangbok (or Sibok) instead of Jobok.

A Study on Sibok in the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선 후기 시복 제도 연구)

  • Park, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.7
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    • pp.767-777
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    • 2012
  • This study analyzed the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms and investigated the backgrounds and principles on the changes of the Sibok system. A study on light-pink danryeong in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty is a de facto study on Sibok since the name of the light-pink official uniforms (implemented at the time of King Seonjo) changed from Sangbok to Sibok. Sangbok is discussed to explain the name change from Sangbok to Sibok and distinguish their usages; in addition, Gongbok is examined to understand the characteristics of the Sibok system. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (books written by scholars) and related laws are used as research materials. The research results are as follows. The name of the light-pink uniforms (a custom before the Japanese invasion in 1592) changed from Sangbok to Sibok at the time of King Gwanghaegun and the light-pink uniform was used as a relatively light formal uniform compared to Sangbok. Sibok was added to the law Sok-dae-jeon at the time of King Yeongjo (because the king respected the custom) and its color rank system was denoted from light-pink and red. Sibok was revised to light-pink, blue, and green under the law Dae-jeon-tong-pyeon that was promulgated at time of King Jeongjo. In the development of the Sibok system in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, the color rank system of Gongbok was reflected. The sovereign ideas in the official uniforms in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (revealed in the study of the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms) were the thoughts that respected the custom and the principles that distinguish ranks to establish a Confucian based hierarchy.

A Study on the System of Official Uniforms Established by Emperor Hong-wu(洪武) of the Ming(明) Dynasty (명 홍무제의 관복제정에 관한 연구)

  • Chun Hea-Sook;Ryoo Jae-Woon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.2 s.92
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    • pp.70-81
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    • 2005
  • This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

A Study on the Uniform Design for the Olympics Using Geongongamli and the Taegeuk Symbol -Focused on the Uniform for the Opening Ceremony- (건곤감리와 태극문양을 활용한 올림픽 유니폼 디자인 연구 -개막식 유니폼을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Eun-Dug;Lee, Inseong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.6
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    • pp.1062-1071
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    • 2016
  • Olympic uniforms emphasize aesthetics along with sports fashion trends and tendencies to display national competitiveness through colorful designs that use the national flag or colors as motifs. Korea needs to enhance the national brand through international sporting events such as the 2018 PyeongChang Olympic Games (30 years after the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games); therefore, a multilateral analysis is required to promote a global image of Korea. This study presents a development direction for more diverse national brand values for Korea through design research on Olympic uniforms. Research methods investigated the concepts and changes of the Geongongamli, and Taegeuk symbols as well as Olympic uniforms based on literature data and existing studies using uniforms. An Olympic uniform using symbols of the Korean flag was designed through a case analysis of Olympic uniform designs of countries that participated in the 2012 London Summer Olympic Games and 2014 Sochi Winter Olympic Games that reflect the countries' image. The research scope excluded uniforms for the actual games and limited the uniforms to official uniforms for the opening ceremony that represent the characteristics of each country; consequently, we analyzed 70 uniforms of 162 countries of the Winter Olympic Games. As a result, official national symbols were more frequently reflected than unofficial symbols in the uniform designs of the Summer and Winter Olympic Games with more frequencies of direct reflection than indirect reflection. Korea's national brand is expected to enhanced through a uniform that expresses Korea's image at international events and global exchanges.

A Study on the Records of Costume of the Early Koryo Period - Focus on the Reign of King Gwangjong.King Gyeongjong.King Seongjong - (고려초 복식기록에 관한 고찰 - 광종.경종.성종대를 중심으로 -)

  • Chun, Hea-Sook;Kim, Hye-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.139-153
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

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A Study on Visual Identity of Professional Baseball Uniforms in Korea, America, and Japan - Focused on Color - (한·미·일 프로야구 유니폼의 비주얼 아이덴티티 연구 - 색채를 중심으로 -)

  • Lim, Songmi;Lee, Misuk
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.117-135
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    • 2013
  • With the growth of mass media, professional baseball teams have strived to keep up team's tradition and individuality and build a distinctive image through sports marketing using visual identity. Among others, a baseball uniform is used as a sports marketing tool more than an uniform. Uniform color acts as a distinctive element in team's uniform design and is effective to raise attention, manifest a positive image to spectators, and increase trust and affinity. This study aims to compare and analyze color characteristics and images of professional baseball uniforms in America, Japan, and Korea as visual identity. For this, literature review was made on the history of baseball, uniforms, sports marketing, and visual identity, and then color characteristics and images were analyzed on professional baseball away uniforms in Korea, America, and Japan collected in Internet and official web sites. The results are as follows. First, for color characteristics of professional baseball uniforms, the most frequently used color was R(V) color in Korea, ltGy color in America, and Bk color in Japan. Second, for color images of professional baseball uniforms, the most frequently used image was a casual image in Korea, a dandy image in America, and a modern image in Japan.

A Study on Byul-Gam Uniforms in Yi-Dynasty (별감복 소고)

  • Lee Kyung Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.177-183
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    • 1978
  • Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

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