• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to classify and recreate the grooming styles of facial hair sported by noblemen during the Joseon Dynasty. Using existent portraits painted during this period as corroborative materials, this study has identified the traditional grooming styles of facial hair sought by noblemen in this age. This study has utilized 30 facial hair styles found in the portraits of noblemen inherited from the Joseon Dynasty, which take up the majority of the portraits currently remaining in Korea. To recreate grooming styles of facial hair, this study has divided facial hair into three types according to its location: beards, moustaches and whiskers. Based on the analysis of these divided grooming styles, this study has recreated grooming styles of facial hair by using artificial modelling heads, artificial hair, artificial glue, scissors, and a comb. The grooming styles of facial hair recreated by this study are closest to those that noblemen sought and did wear during the Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. First, they groomed their moustaches in the 八 shape. Next, they wore their beards in the shape of an inverted triangle. Finally, they also grew and groomed whiskers. Though there are individual differences in the location, length, and volume of facial hair, noblemen in the Joseon Dynasty generally sought to wear their facial hair neat and long. Little research has been done to recreate and present noblemen's grooming styles of facial hair focusing on portraits. Thus, the findings of this study are expected to be utilized as basic materials for the education and research of grooming styles of facial hair according to ages. They can also be used as basic materials for recreating facial hair in historical dramas.

• 수완나부미
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2020

This article explored how the introduction of the Gregorian calendar transformed the Buddhist traditional practices of a noble class family who lost power in the royal court during the emergence of the British in Upper Myanmar. It examined in micro-level, the said changes by way of Wekmasuk Wundauk U Latt's diary, which recorded the social and economic conditions of Mandalay, then the capital of the Myanmar kingdom, from 1886 to 1898. When Burmese kings reigned in Mandalay, the court closed on Sabbath day, when the Buddhist Burmese went to monasteries to fulfill religious obligations. The introduction of the Gregorian calendar turned Sunday into a regular day off, which left Sabbath day to be used for more work. This prevented the then noblemen to attend to monastic duties as they had to use the day, for example to go to the bank to draw their pension. This research reveals that the Gregorian calendar has transformed the day off from "holy day" to "holiday."

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.425-437
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to establish the identity of Korean traditional food based on the recorded food preferences during the period of the Chosun Dynasty. Our primary source in this regard was the invaluable, historical document called the "Miam's diary." This important document reveals details of such food preferences from October 1567 to September 1568. By analyzing the income-expenditure trends of virtually every household, this diary was used to describe a vivid traditional food preference of the people during that period. A detailed analysis of the diary reveals the summary of families' characteristics in the 16th century. First, it records the fact that expenditure on food was mainly based on stipend and gifts received. The type of food preferred by the people was diverse in nature; for it included rice, bean, chicken, pheasant, and seafood. However, there were dried or pickled forms too so as to prevent them from undergoing decay. Second, it throws light on the fact that people expended food mainly as a salary for servants. People utilized the income from selling such food items to purchase goods and land. They also used the same either to donate for a funeral or wedding purpose. Third, it records the fact that day-to-day purchase of groceries was mostly based on gift(s) for someone close to them such as a neighbor, colleague, relative, or student. Further, such gifts included small groceries, food items, and clothes. Fourth, based on the data available in the diary, it seemed likely that the gentry families laid emphasis on the customary formalities of a family dating back to as early as the late 16th century. Finally, the document also records the fact that noblemen of the Chosun Dynasty had a notion that they had to extend warmth and affection by presenting generous gifts to their guests at home. Noblemen during that period were very particular in welcoming their guests as they believed that this approach alone would testify their status as noblemen.

• 고전문학과교육
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• 제33호
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• pp.153-184
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• 2016

본고는 묵재 이문건(1494-1567)이 어머니 고령 신씨(高靈申氏; 1463-1535)의 시묘살이를 하며 기록한 상례(喪禮)에 대한 고찰이다. 상례는 죽음에 대한 의례이다. 이문건이 행한 죽음의례, 즉 시묘살이 상례(喪禮)에 개인이 어떻게 구체적으로 참여하였는가에 초점을 두어 살펴보았다. 즉 이문건이 실천한 시묘살이 상례의 특징을 살펴봄으로써 그 의례가 지향하는 바의 의미와 조선중기 사대부 일기의 글쓰기를 통해 당대인의 효의 실천과 죽음에 대한 제반 인식을 유추해보는 데 그 의의를 둔다. 조선중기 사대부들은 법제화에 의한 상례 준수로 인식변화를 끊임없이 시도하지만, 기나긴 역사의 밑바탕에 깔린 인간의 의식세계를 완전히 개조하기는 현실적으로 어려웠다. 중국과 조선은 문화적 배경이 달랐음을 인정해야만 하였다. 중국의 제도인 "주자가례"를 조선에 끼워 맞추려고 한 것은 처음부터 문제를 배태하고 있는 것이다. 신주(神主) 중심의 조상 제사와 가묘(家廟) 설립의 중요성을 "주자가례"에서 백 번 강조하지만, 조선중기 사대부는 무덤 속에 누워 있는 부모에게 더 마음이 가는 것이다. 사당과 시제(時祭)보다는 무덤과 묘제(墓祭) 및 기제사(忌祭祀)가 조선중기의 사대부에게는 더 중요한 것이다. 이런 모순 속에서 조선중기 사대부는 죽음에 대한 의례로서 시묘살이 상례를 수용하고 실천하였다. 고대인 혹은 중세인이 아니라도 현재를 살아가는 우리 인간에게 죽음에 대한 지배적 생각, 즉 현세와 정신적 물질적 생활을 지속한다는 계세사상(繼世思想)을 뿌리 채 뽑아버리기는 쉽지 않아 보인다. 만약 이 사상이 없다면 인간의 죽음 역시 고속도로 위에서 차에 치여진 동물의 사체와 다름이 없기 때문이다. 그래서 인간은 시간이 변해도 형태는 바뀔지언정 죽음에 대한 의례 자체를 끊임없이 생각하지 않을 수 없는 것이다. 그러므로 조선중기 사대부의 시묘살이는 효의 실천과 죽음에 대한 의례로 시사하는 바가 크다고 하겠다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.43-55
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• 2002

This study intends to consider the characteristics of Tudorian costume and find out how the thoughts and cultures in those days had influences on the costume trends of low and middle class. In terms of the Tudorian costume which generated new cultural mainstreams along with blossomed civil culture, this study focuses on the characteristics and trends of costume at low and middle class, which have been little addressed in studies on western costume history or related fields, turning from the costume of upper class based on wealthy noblemen who showed off its dignity and authority along with jewelry and gorgeous ornamental craftsmanship. This study used related pictures, museum material and other literatures as its reference. It first looked into the general characteristics of western costume and considered the characteristics of costumes popularized in professionals at middle class such as apprentice, yeomen and low-class people. Professional or other middle class almost typically used to wear tunic, doublet, shirts, coat or long gown. Black was mainly used as clothes color. Similarly to upper class, silk or velvet was very often used as material. People at low class enjoyed wear costumes with simple and easy style for working. They also preferred natural color and cotton or wool as material. This study intended to find out which type of costumes people at low and middle class enjoyed wearing, rather than compare costume between such two classes.

• 한국디지털건축인테리어학회논문집
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.13-20
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• 2011

Vincenzo Scamozzi as the successor of Palladio stands as a major accomplishment of the task of cleanup to the classicism in 16th century. In addition, unlike the trend seen over Palladian, he shows succession and change of Renaissance villa. "L'Idea dell' Archittectura Universale; The Idea of a Universal Architecture"(1615) is a book of Scamozz's representative. This book is represented his idea for a residential building. His concepts for a residential building were analyzed through the analysis of his book and work. Scamozzi thought that domestic architecture should be designed according to he owner's social status and reputation. These concepts as decorum and this is divided into three categories. This is a threefold order, the first category and highest encompassing reigning princess and their families, who were more or less regarded as God's representatives on earth. The second category comprised noblemen and high office holders whose houses were to be, in all respects, a degree less grand, costly and dignified than the prince's residence. The third category was made up of prominent citizens and wealthy merchants whose houses were to have only moderate commoner did not come into this classification at all. - the magnifiche, honorevoli, and commune style of speech.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.