• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to classify and recreate the grooming styles of facial hair sported by noblemen during the Joseon Dynasty. Using existent portraits painted during this period as corroborative materials, this study has identified the traditional grooming styles of facial hair sought by noblemen in this age. This study has utilized 30 facial hair styles found in the portraits of noblemen inherited from the Joseon Dynasty, which take up the majority of the portraits currently remaining in Korea. To recreate grooming styles of facial hair, this study has divided facial hair into three types according to its location: beards, moustaches and whiskers. Based on the analysis of these divided grooming styles, this study has recreated grooming styles of facial hair by using artificial modelling heads, artificial hair, artificial glue, scissors, and a comb. The grooming styles of facial hair recreated by this study are closest to those that noblemen sought and did wear during the Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. First, they groomed their moustaches in the 八 shape. Next, they wore their beards in the shape of an inverted triangle. Finally, they also grew and groomed whiskers. Though there are individual differences in the location, length, and volume of facial hair, noblemen in the Joseon Dynasty generally sought to wear their facial hair neat and long. Little research has been done to recreate and present noblemen's grooming styles of facial hair focusing on portraits. Thus, the findings of this study are expected to be utilized as basic materials for the education and research of grooming styles of facial hair according to ages. They can also be used as basic materials for recreating facial hair in historical dramas.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.131-142
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• 2020

This article explored how the introduction of the Gregorian calendar transformed the Buddhist traditional practices of a noble class family who lost power in the royal court during the emergence of the British in Upper Myanmar. It examined in micro-level, the said changes by way of Wekmasuk Wundauk U Latt's diary, which recorded the social and economic conditions of Mandalay, then the capital of the Myanmar kingdom, from 1886 to 1898. When Burmese kings reigned in Mandalay, the court closed on Sabbath day, when the Buddhist Burmese went to monasteries to fulfill religious obligations. The introduction of the Gregorian calendar turned Sunday into a regular day off, which left Sabbath day to be used for more work. This prevented the then noblemen to attend to monastic duties as they had to use the day, for example to go to the bank to draw their pension. This research reveals that the Gregorian calendar has transformed the day off from "holy day" to "holiday."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.425-437
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to establish the identity of Korean traditional food based on the recorded food preferences during the period of the Chosun Dynasty. Our primary source in this regard was the invaluable, historical document called the "Miam's diary." This important document reveals details of such food preferences from October 1567 to September 1568. By analyzing the income-expenditure trends of virtually every household, this diary was used to describe a vivid traditional food preference of the people during that period. A detailed analysis of the diary reveals the summary of families' characteristics in the 16th century. First, it records the fact that expenditure on food was mainly based on stipend and gifts received. The type of food preferred by the people was diverse in nature; for it included rice, bean, chicken, pheasant, and seafood. However, there were dried or pickled forms too so as to prevent them from undergoing decay. Second, it throws light on the fact that people expended food mainly as a salary for servants. People utilized the income from selling such food items to purchase goods and land. They also used the same either to donate for a funeral or wedding purpose. Third, it records the fact that day-to-day purchase of groceries was mostly based on gift(s) for someone close to them such as a neighbor, colleague, relative, or student. Further, such gifts included small groceries, food items, and clothes. Fourth, based on the data available in the diary, it seemed likely that the gentry families laid emphasis on the customary formalities of a family dating back to as early as the late 16th century. Finally, the document also records the fact that noblemen of the Chosun Dynasty had a notion that they had to extend warmth and affection by presenting generous gifts to their guests at home. Noblemen during that period were very particular in welcoming their guests as they believed that this approach alone would testify their status as noblemen.

• Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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• no.33
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• pp.153-184
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• 2016

This study investigates the funeral rituals practiced by the Joseon Dynasty as recorded about Lee Mun Geon (1494~1567, a.k.a Mukjae), who mourned by the grave of his deceased mother, Ms. Shin (1463~1535), a woman whose family's origin was Goryeon. The study focuse on the rituals performed by Lee after his mother's death, his participation in the funeral, and his mourning specifically as an individual who has lost his parent. Reviewing Lee's mourning life beside the grave, the contents of diary belonging to a nobleman in the middle of Joseon Dynasty were studied aimsing to find out the meaning of rituals, the overall recognition accorded to death, and the filial duties that were carried out by the noblemen of the time. Although noblemen in the middle of Joseon Dynasty ceaselessly attempted to change the observance of funeral rituals through legislation, it was difficult to change the mindset of the people, who fllowed the deep-rooted traditions of long history. It must be acknowledged that the Joseon Dynasty had a different cultural background than that of China. There was a fundamental problem when they tried to adapt The Family Rituals of Zhu Xi, followed by the Chinese, to the Joseon society. Although The Family Rituals of Zhu Xi emphasized ancestral rites focusing on enshrining mortuary tablets and the importance of establishing the family shrine hundred times, noblemen in the mid-Joseon Dynasty period cared for their parents in the grave by mourning for them than by following such practice. The solemn memorial service held in front of the grave, and the annual ritual service on the death anniversary were far more important to the noblemen in the mid-Joseon Dynasty. Amid such contradictions, the noblemen accepted and performed the mourning rituals beside the grave of their parent. Human beings across the ages have always dwelt upon thoughts of the afterlife. Most people believe that they attain a state after the death of their physicalbody. If humans did not have such thoughts, they would not be bothered if death occurs on being hit by a car on the street. Thus, human beings often think of the ritual services related to death, although in different forms. Therefore, mourning by the grave of their parent held great significance among the noblemen of the Joseon Dynasty as a sign of their filial piety.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.43-55
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• 2002

This study intends to consider the characteristics of Tudorian costume and find out how the thoughts and cultures in those days had influences on the costume trends of low and middle class. In terms of the Tudorian costume which generated new cultural mainstreams along with blossomed civil culture, this study focuses on the characteristics and trends of costume at low and middle class, which have been little addressed in studies on western costume history or related fields, turning from the costume of upper class based on wealthy noblemen who showed off its dignity and authority along with jewelry and gorgeous ornamental craftsmanship. This study used related pictures, museum material and other literatures as its reference. It first looked into the general characteristics of western costume and considered the characteristics of costumes popularized in professionals at middle class such as apprentice, yeomen and low-class people. Professional or other middle class almost typically used to wear tunic, doublet, shirts, coat or long gown. Black was mainly used as clothes color. Similarly to upper class, silk or velvet was very often used as material. People at low class enjoyed wear costumes with simple and easy style for working. They also preferred natural color and cotton or wool as material. This study intended to find out which type of costumes people at low and middle class enjoyed wearing, rather than compare costume between such two classes.

• Journal of The Korean Digital Architecture Interior Association
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.13-20
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• 2011

Vincenzo Scamozzi as the successor of Palladio stands as a major accomplishment of the task of cleanup to the classicism in 16th century. In addition, unlike the trend seen over Palladian, he shows succession and change of Renaissance villa. "L'Idea dell' Archittectura Universale; The Idea of a Universal Architecture"(1615) is a book of Scamozz's representative. This book is represented his idea for a residential building. His concepts for a residential building were analyzed through the analysis of his book and work. Scamozzi thought that domestic architecture should be designed according to he owner's social status and reputation. These concepts as decorum and this is divided into three categories. This is a threefold order, the first category and highest encompassing reigning princess and their families, who were more or less regarded as God's representatives on earth. The second category comprised noblemen and high office holders whose houses were to be, in all respects, a degree less grand, costly and dignified than the prince's residence. The third category was made up of prominent citizens and wealthy merchants whose houses were to have only moderate commoner did not come into this classification at all. - the magnifiche, honorevoli, and commune style of speech.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.