• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.814-827
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• 2022

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.73-82
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• 1998

There are two styles of Yoo(; ) Sang(;裳) in Koryo Women. One they wore the Snag(;裳) over the Yoo(; ), the other wore the Yoo(; ) over the Sang(;裳). In the Yoo(; ), Double breast styly was used for the adjustments of these clothes, Neckline and hem line were substituted by rectangular collar (;목판깃). Knot-button, Coat-string(;Okgolum), White straight collar (DongJung), side slit were used. In the Sang(;裳), Chimaheri(;치마허리)was mades of another fabric and Chima-string was dropped.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.89-101
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the design preference according to the body consciousness for 20~26 years old male. The consciousness of body size and the satisfaction with body proportion were investigated. And the relationship between the body consciousness and the design preference was analyzed. Most subjects thought their body size was proper generally and their body proportion was proper or a little unsatisfied. The subjects preferred 'Round neckline', 'loose sleeve', and 'loose and long tops'. They didn't like the style that tops are under pants on the waist. They also preferred 'loose and long pants'. When the subjects chose clothing design, especially 'V-neckline tops' and 'short pants', they considered their height. They also considered their girth size and it meant they thought much of looseness. There was not any preference in clothing design according to the consciousness of height. The most significant relationships between the size consciousness and the preference in design was found in tops more than pants. The higher satisfaction with their body proportion was connected with the higher preference in some design. From all these result, it was found that the preference of clothing design could vary according to the consciousness of body size. The results from this study could give the important tips to improve the satisfaction with the clothing for each person.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.47-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the knitwear preferences and purchase behaviors of university students. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam Provinces. The method of this study was a survey and measurement instruments were 34 stimuli which were manipulated pullover patterns and shapes and self-administrated questionnaire with knitwear design preference items and knitwear purchase behavior items. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, Cronbach'${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and $Sch{\acute{e}}ffe$ test using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, university students most preferred achromatic colors, pastel tones, solid patterns, and 100% cotton. Second, as for knitwear purchase behaviors, university students considered the esthetical factor to be most important among 4 dimensions (comfortable, esthetical, economical, and conspicuous factors) as important purchase criteria, and they used internet web sites for knitwear purchases. Third, there were significant differences in preferred pullover shape depending on neckline shape, neck depth, sleeve shape and clothing length. University students preferred the classic pullover design with V neckline, normal neck depth, set-in sleeves and normal length. Fourth, university students preferred the cloud motif and riding man motif among the 9 Baekje traditional motifs and one point small pattern on the left chest and crosswise bending pattern for pattern arrangement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.167-182
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• 2015

This study was to investigate the preference tendency by detail and material preference of summer one-piece dresses for the children, and evaluation standard of children's wear in purchasing one-piece dresses as an object of mothers who have girls as buying representatives of children's wear in order to supply real information of design about the one-piece dresses for the girls in accordance with the consumers' demands. The results of this study revealed that the one-piece dress was favorite one to them in purchasing their summer wear. This study showed tendency that the more the mother's fashion interest was, the more the mother's preference on the one-piece dress was. As to the material preference of one-piece dress, it preferred the natural fiber to the synthetic fiber much, and the preferred customer order in purchasing one-piece dresses for their children was analyzed as activity, material, design collar, and pattern. As to the preference by form factor of one-piece dress, it preferred A-line silhouette in the silhouette, natural waist in the waist position, 5~7cm from the knee in the length of one-piece dress, and flared skirt in shape of skirt. The preference on the collar type was soutien collar, and the preference on the neckline type was round neckline. In addition, the preference on sleeve form was shirtsleeve, and the preference on trimming was lace trimming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.58-68
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• 2011

With Expo 2012 Yeosu to be held in 2012, this study intends to propose designs for fashion cultural products into which the characteristics of local cultures of Yeosu are fused. Using symbols of Expo 2012 Yeosu and cultural symbols of Yeosu City as motifs, this study will develop patterns and then, apply them to neckties, handkerchiefs, and T-shirts. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 will be used. This study developed basic motifs so that cultural resources using camellia, Odong Island, and the Turtle Ship, which represent Yeosu City, could be well harmonized with the topic of Expo 2012 Yeosu. This paper set three basic motifs of new formative images, using graphic images that were made by omission of forms, simplification, overlap, repetition, and calligraphy of the name of Yeosu holding the event. Each set motif was expanded to three motifs again through change, conversion, and mixture of colors, and three types of repetitive applied patterns were developed through revolution, symmetry, repetition, and reversal of each motif. The modern and refined image for neckties, to which the developed motif was applied, was made by directly applying the repetitive pattern of each motif or by making $45^{\circ}$ revolution. For handkerchiefs, revolution, enlargement, reduction, and gradation were applied to the motif so the pattern could be highlighted to the maximum and finally, a colorful image was developed. For T-shirts, three designs-a half-sleeved box type, a sleeveless round neckline type, and a sleeveless V-neckline tight type-were developed, through which availability of the design was increased. Through enlargement, reduction, revolution, and repetition of each motif, this paper layout the pattern on the whole part of a T-shirt, pursuing a decorative and casual image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.98-108
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• 2016

Knitwear has been used as an active and functional clothing item due to its flexible and soft nature. Diverse design expressions have made knitwear into an essential fashion item for people today, who are constantly seeking for ways to display their individualism. The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual wearing conditions, and the preferred designs of knitwear for female college students in order to provide a baseline data, which can be used to develop knitwear designs for the subjects of the study. Survey by questionnaire of 135 female college students in 3 universities in Seoul were analysed. The results of the study are as follows: First, the most owned knitwear were sweaters and cardigans. Knitwear was viewed as soft and warm, as well as versatile. It was not restricted to certain sizes, and was comfortable to wear for different activities. Seound, the most preferred items were sweaters and cardigans. The most preferred styles were round neckline sweaters and open V-neckline cardigans. Third, the most preferred designs were plain designs with achromatic colors and wool-blended fabrics. The most preferred images were simple images. The most preferred fit was loose enough for little bit of room inside. Fourth, appropriateness and design of the knitwear were assessed during the purchasing stage. the most preferred method of purchase was purchasing via online stores after researching the knitwear through various channels, such as store visits and the Internet. The preferred price of knitwear was below 100,000 KRW. Fifth, the most common complaints were as follows: changes in the shape and quality of the knitwear after a wash, appearance of nap, and loose threads. In short, it is necessary for female college students to develop high quality knitwear with designs that can display individuality, while being simple.