• 복식
• /
• 제44권
• /
• pp.117-129
• /
• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제25권3호
• /
• pp.525-536
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged womens body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. In this study, styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket(flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncans multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows: 1) The classic style suits-middle aged womans body construct looks better when she is wearing it with the combination of suit details; opened tailored collar jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket, opened stand collar jacket with non-pocket, closed soutien collar and round neckline jacket with non-pocket, closed V-neckline jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket on slacks. 2) The middle aged woman wearing slacks looks smaller in upper body, longer in lower part of her body and taller as a whole than when wearing a skirt suit. And Opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen than that on closed jacket. The stand calar and round neckline jacket with non-flap pockets makes her look smaller in upper body and hip. 3) With tailored, soutien, stand collar jacket, it looks slimmer in a neck, narrower in shoulder, smaller in upper body, and taller than on a round neckline and V-neckline jacket.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권6호
• /
• pp.826-837
• /
• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제11권3호
• /
• pp.371-382
• /
• 2009

In this study, I examined the psychological visual effect and clothes preference by clothes designs for the mid-aged Korean and American women's somatotypes. The psychological visual effects of each somatotypes' clothes are like these. First, the primary factors for psychological visual effect were analyzed into 5, neat, feminine, polished, modern and active. Second, in thin somatotype, Korean evaluated that china collar and V-neckline are the least feminine, and stand collar is the most polished and the modernest. American evaluated that V-neckline is the most feminine, and tailored collar is the modernest. It shows that there's the difference of culture. In standard somatotype, Korean thought stand collar with pants is the neatest, but tailored collar and china collar with pants are not neat. Contrary, they thought tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and stand collar with skirt is not neat. American thought tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and modernest. The neat visual effects are evaluated differently according to the clothes' styles of bottom. In obesity, Korean evaluated that tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and modernest, but stand collar with skirt is not modern. Stand collar with pants is the modernest, but tailored collar with pants is the least modern and active. American evaluated that round neckline with pants is not neat, modern and active, and round neckline with skirt is the modernest and the most active. So neckline's visual effects are differently showed by culture and the clothes' styles of bottom.

• 복식
• /
• 제44권
• /
• pp.104-116
• /
• 1999

This study was intended to make an inquiry into the effect of lines, shapes and colors (achromatic colors) as apparel design elements on the perceptions of facial size, brightness and shape through an empirical research based on the theories of visual perception and optical illusion that have been studied in Gestalt Psychology, which becomes the basis of apparel design principles. It was shown that the facial size was influenced by the collar size, the degree of neckline cut, and the thickness of the trimming line. The white scarf with the white jacket made the face look darkest while the black scarf with the black jacket made the face look brightest. When the neckline had the characteristic of the line contrasted with the facial shape, the oval-shaped face was perceived to be the most ideal. When the facial shape and the neckline shape were similar, the facial shape was perceived to be more highlighted.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권6호
• /
• pp.691-698
• /
• 1998

This study investigated the clothing constructional characteristics of contemporary folk Jogori design retailed at the market. This study focussed on comparison of style variation between contemporary Jogori and traditional Jogori. The data were collected from five top contemporary folk dress makers's 997-1998 fall-winter collection. The results of this study were as following. 1) The traditional folk clothing constructional elements remained most among the con- temporary Jogori design were center back seam(Deung-Sol) and attached front bodice extensi on(Sup). Neckline shaping(Geet) and neckline binding(Dong-Jeong) were also observed frequently. 2) The most obvious changes from the traditional Jogori design were elimination of the ribbon fastener in front, adaptation of various neckline shaping used in the Yi dynasty, and lengthened garment length. 3) The western garment construction techniques applied to the contemporary Jogori design were use o( pocket and button closure. The center front extension was replaced with attached front bodice extension(Sup) for a few Jogori design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권2호
• /
• pp.202-209
• /
• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.225-230
• /
• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.460-472
• /
• 2011

This paper developed motifs through the use of images of masks with which the Korean innate consciousness of aesthetics is expressed. The motifs were applied to fashion items. This paper investigated the concept, origin and types of traditional masks through the existing literature. Using the computer graphic programs of Illustrator and Photoshop CS2, three basic motifs were set from the images of the nobleman, Bune of Hahoi Tal and Byeongsan Tal. Each motif was extended into two motifs by changing shape and color. For the basic motif design, this study sought to express contemporary images, suitably for each fashion item, while maintaining the basic shape of the masks and their traditional images. In addition, this study set the concept of the design so that could be accepted by various age groups. For the design of handkerchiefs, a rotating array, involving enlargement, reduction, repetition, and the gradation of motifs, as well as a diagonal symmetric array, and all-over patterns were developed. The T-shirt design created here was divided into a half-sleeve box type, a round neckline sleeveless type, a V-neckline close-fitting sleeveless type, and a V-neckline close-fitting cap sleeve type. For the design of necklaces, OLED or LED, which are considered as a future display type, was used. Additionally, the production of an entertainment styled new atmosphere is proposed.