• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.61-71
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• 1996

해안선의 횡방향 표사이동에 대하여 장시간 관측된 자료를 이용하여 연안사주와 관련된 제반 특성들을 해석하였다. 전체적으로, 발생된 내부 연안사주는 시간이 지남에 따라 외해쪽으로 이동하다가 임의의 위치에서 외부 연안사주를 형성하게 된다. 이와 같이 외부 연안사주가 형성된 후, 내부 연안사주는 반대로 시간에 따라 해안선 쪽으로 진행하면서 동시에 많은 양의 표사가 해안선과 외부 연안사주방향으로 이동 소멸되어 외부 연안사주가 다시 내부 연안사주로 변화되는 과정을 거친다. 또한 외부 연안사주의 존재여부에 따라 내부 연안사주의 계절적인 변화특성이 매우 다르게 나타났다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2003

낙동강 하구의 사주 발달 과정을 과거 관측 자료를 토대로 분석하고, 수치해석기법을 도입하여 파랑의 변화와 이로 인한 해빈류를 계산하여 낙동강 하구역 및 그 인접해역에서의 3차원적인 지형변화를 예측, 하구의 해안선 변화와 사주의 발달과정을 관련시켜 보았다. 실제 지형변화와 수치 실험의 결과를 분석해 본 결과, 이들 해역에서의 해안선 변화 및 사주의 발달은 하구둑의 건설과 같은 인위적인 요소 외에 해빈류의 영향이 크게 작용하며, 장래에는 진우등 하단부와 다대포 해수욕장 전면에서 사주의 발달과 이동이 예상된다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.308-320
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• 2021

해안침식의 근본적 대책으로서 감소한 공급 토사량 회복을 포함한 종합 토사관리 대책이 유효하지만, 계획에 있어서는 하천에서 바다로 유출된 토사 가운데 어느 정도의 양이 어느 정도의 속도로 해안에 다시 공급되는 토사량의 평가와 이를 위해서는 하천과 바다의 결절점인 하구지역에서 발생하는 토사의 이동 메커니즘 분석이 매우 중요하다. 하지만 지금까지 홍수 시의 하구사주 붕괴(flushing) 과정을 해석하는 수치모델에 관한 연구는 진행되고 있지만 하구사주의 형성 및 발달 과정을 해석하는 수치모델은 아직 확립되어 있지 않은 것이 현재의 연구 진행상태이다. 본 연구에서는 종합토사관리를 위해 유출된 토사가 회복되는 토사량의 평가를 위해 파랑변형, 유황계산 및 지형변화 모델을 구축하여 하구사주의 생성과정을 수치해석을 통한 재현을 목적으로 한다. 하구사주의 생성과정을 모의하였으며 에너지 파랑 및 작용 시간의 개념을 도입하여 장기간 표사이동의 예측을 실시하였다. 계산에 필요한 외력조건은 하구사주가 지배적으로 발달하는 동계시 작용하는 파랑조건과 하천의 유량을 고려하였으며 초기지형은 홍수시 마읍천의 하구사주가 붕괴(flushing)된 직후의 지형정보를 초기조건으로 설정하였다. 그 결과 입사파향에 따라 해빈류에 의해 하구사주의 발달과 생성과정을 재현하였으며 초기지형으로부터 약 66시간 경과 후 맹방하구 사주의 형태로 발달되는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.96-102
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• 2014

하구역의 지형변화를 예측하기 위해 3차원 해빈 변형 모델을 통한 계산이 수행되었다. 본 모델은 수심적분을 기초로 한 준 3차원 연안흐름 모듈로 구성되며, 해안선의 변화, 부유사의 이송-확산 효과를 고려할 수 있다. 우선 모델의 성능을 확인하기 위해 3차원 해빈 변화 모델이 하구역 사주 형성에 적용되었다. 다음으로 동해에 인접한 Ara 강 하구에 모델이 적용되었다. Ara 강의 사주의 동계 변화가 재현되었으며 계산결과는 현장 관측 결과와 좋은 일치를 나타냈다.