• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.699-707
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• 2010

Catechu is widely used as in natural dyeing as well as in various medicines and tannage. This study investigated the dyeing properties and functionality of Catechu through a series of dyeing experiments using cotton fabric. It was shown that the absorbance of Catechu solution has two peaks at 220nm and 280nm. Thus, it can be concluded that the color constituent of Catechu is a catechol tannin and color tone is YR. The dyeability of Catechu increases as the concentration of the dye is increased. Its variation was shown to be similar to the isothermal absorption curve of the Freundlich. As dyeing time was increases, the dyeability did not change significantly after the 30 minute mark was passed. At high temperatures the dyeability was shown to increase. As the dyeing temperature was increased the color of dyeing fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Experiments with pre-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using Catechu. Cotton is effective in using K, Cu, Fe mordants, and the dyeability was shown to be improved with low pH. Both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causing by repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.113-118
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• 2013

This study was carried out to evaluate the dyeing possibility of purple corn stem and leaf. The UV absorbance of the purple corn stem extract and leaf extract at different pH does not change. It is considered to use to efficiently measure the purple corn pigment content when using UV absorbance at 520~560 nm. By adjusting higher pH values in the extraction dyed fabrics, silk and cotton fabric used by the purple corn leaf extraction decreased lightness and redness. Extent for dyeing the fabric depending on the concentration, lightness and redness showed a tendency to increase color values when silk and cotton concentration increases. Also when the longer the dyeing time, silk and cotton increased lightness but redness decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.577-585
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on cotton fabric were investigated. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Cationic agent treatment was done for cotton to improve low dyeability in natural dyeing. In addition antimicrobial activity of the cotton fabrics dyed with pomegranate colorants was examined by the shake flask method. Pomegranate colorants showed low affinity to cotton fiber and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type. Therefore, hydrogen bonding was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants onto cotton fiber. Mordants did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on cotton fabric. In order to improve dye uptake, cotton was cationized by treating with Cationon UK(quarterly ammonium salt) and chitosan. The cationized cotton with Cationon UK showed higher dye uptake and shorter dyeing time, compared with the untreated cotton. Chitosan treated cotton also showed high dye uptake, but chitosan was less effective compared with Cationon UK. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting and cationizing treatment, but light fastness was increased by all mordants and cationic agent. As dye concentration increased, bacterial reduction rate was increased and mordants did not significantly increase bacterial reduction rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.110-122
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• 2014

This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at $55^{\circ}C$ using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.140-146
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• 1999

Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.607-620
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.87-96
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• 1995

Colorant concentrates are prepared by use of concentration method of colorants extracted from Sappan wood using met hanol. Dyeabilities and fastness properties of silk fabrics dyed with concentrate of Sappan wood are investigated.The results obtained are as follows; 1. The storage stability of colorant concentrate is poor as concentration is excess. 2. Because the colors of dyeings are different with mordants, aluminium acetate, copper acetate, chromium alum and tin chloride are used in order to obtain reddish color. 3. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time are 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60 min, respectively. 4. Dry cleaning fastness is very good, and light fastness and washing fastness are low. 5. The dyeing method is simple owing to usehess of colorant concentrate prepared without extraction of colorant every time.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.62-68
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• 2017

Coffee sludge and onion shells are known typically as waste resources as well as simultaneously being the raw material for dye having a golden brown color. This research studies the dyeability, functionality, and colors of woolen fabric after being dyed by different dyeing method using coffee sludge and onion shells extract. The woolen fabric was refined and pre-mordanted with tannin. The dyeing process conducted was single-dye, using coffee sludge and onion shells extract, sequential multi-dye, consecutively dyeing with coffee sludge and onion shells, and mixed-dye, blending coffee sludge extract and onion shells extract to dye. The dyeing was measured on the surface color, color fastness, and UV-protection ability. As a result, the expression of various hues of tan using coffee sludge and onion shells extract were shown to be possible. Additionally, single-dye, sequential multi-dye, mixed-dye had generally superiority in color fastness to light, all rating 3 and color fastness to washing, rating 3 or 4, showing relatively stable color fastness to washing. The UV protection ability was shown to be better, especially appearing satisfactory in the UV-B protection, all measured to be over 90%.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.128-140
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• 2016

In this study, dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. extract, which is relatively less studied, was measured. The extract of this plant was used to dye cellulose and protein fiber to check its usage as a natural green dye. Three different methods were used to produce extract. Dried Urtica Dioica L. was extracted with 100% ethanol, 50% ethanol with 50% distilled water and 100% distilled water. Then dyeing solution was obtained by blending with distilled water at 1-to-1 ratio. The maximum dyeability was obtained when 100% ethanol extract of dried Urtica Dioica L. used to dye fabrics at 60 degrees celsius for 60 minutes without mordant treatment. Cotton, rayon, wool and silk were dyed and dyeability for each fiber was measured for color difference value then compared to its control. The results show that dyeability of rayon and dyeability of wool are stronger, and that when color position for each mordant is measured, color difference is most diverse on cotton with pre-mordant treatment. Color fastness to wash, perspiration and rubbing crockmeter were superb, but color fastness to light was low, therefore, additional study on this is needed to improve. Urtica Dioica L. is now expected to be used practically as green color dye as well as medicinally and edible.