• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.314-324
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to obtain the dyed-fabrics of the elaborate patterns using the natural dye powders extracted from Galla Rhois, Sophorae Flos Immaturus, Clove, Sappan Wood, Madder, Log Wood and Japanese Green Alder. Specific informations on the separation and powder-making of each colorant were disclosed. Appropriate printing paste preparation and printing conditions including the viscosity and mordant concentration in the printing paste were investigated. The dyeability and colorfastness of the screen-printed silk fabrics with the colorant powders were discussed in terms of practical applicability. The deodorization and antimicrobial activities of the silk fabrics screen-printed with natural dyes were also assessed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.222-229
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The maximum V-visible spectrum possessed absorption band of Rumex crispus L. extract appeared at 274nm and 336nm. The amount of dyes extracted was increased with extracting concentration, temperature and time. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing concentration and repeat-numbers. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing temperature and time, the exhaustion was saturated in $90^{\circ}C\;and\;80min$, respectively. Surface colors of fabrics dyed with pH 3, 7, 11 extract were RP-R-YR-Y range. The light fastness and washing fastness showed good results in Fe-mordanted. The dry leaning fastness appeared more than 4 grade. Rubbing fastness was better in dry methods han that in wet methods. In the result of antibacterial activity, the decrease rate was 9.9% to Staphylococcus aureus with the dyed fabric of cotton.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권32호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2011

천연물로부터 항균 및 방충작용에 효과적인 물질을 검색한 결과, 목초액과 세신추출물이 강한 생물활성을 나타내는 후보물질로 선발되었다. 천연 항균 및 살충제로서 선발된 목초액과 세신추출물은 자체에 색을 지니고 있어 이들을 이용하여 문화재 보존 처리제로 사용하였을 경우 유기질 문화재 재질에 나쁜 영향을 줄 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 섬유 재질에 대한 영향을 평가하기 위하여 무염색 섬유 시편과 염색 섬유 시편을 대상으로 두 종의 천연 살충소재를 $28^{\circ}C$ 온도와 70% 습도 조건에서 노출 실험을 실시하였으며, 천연 살충소재 처리 후 6개월 동안 이들 섬유의 색변화를 2주 간격으로 측정하였다. 그 결과 세신추출물의 경우 무염색 섬유뿐만 아니라 천연 염색한 붉은색과 푸른색의 섬유에서 또한 색변화가 크게 나타나지 않았으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교 시 큰 변화가 관찰되지 않았다. 그러나 목초액의 경우 무염색 면섬유에 있어서 3주차부터 뚜렷한 색변화가 관찰되었으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교했을 때 특정 파장대의 피크가 없어지는 것으로 나타났다. 그러므로 목초액의 경우 유기질 문화재 보존처리제로 적용할 경우 섬유 재질에 영향을 미칠 수 있어 사용에 제한을 두어야 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.336-346
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of protein fiber with bamboo colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures, times on dye uptakes, effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. In addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. The dye uptake increased as the dyeing concentration increased. Bamboo colorants showed relatively good affinity to protein fiber and produced a yellow color. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting. Mordants, Fe and N.Fe, were effective for increasing dye uptake. The color of fabric mordanted with Cu and N.Cu changed to GY. Colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a relatively good rating, and mordanting had no significant effect on colorfastness. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. Also, ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved in silk fabric dyed with bamboo extracts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.8-17
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of turmeric was studied. In this study, the colorants of turmeric were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics was dyed with aqueous extract of turmeric and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(turmeric) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably became increased when the crosslinked chitosan concentration was higher. Dyeability of turmeric was improved on chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabric rather than only cotton fabric, while the saturated dyeing time was 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The hue value indicated greenish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was almost the same.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.36-44
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• 2003

Chitosan treatment of textile fabrics has been studied to improve fabric characteristics and functions. Natural dyestuffs have been more actively employed in environment-conscious finishing products. In this study, chitosan treated cotton and nylon fabrics were prepared for dyeing with a few natural dyestuffs. These were Caesalpina sappan, Gardenia jasminoides, and cochineal in the form of powder. Hand-related physical and mechanical properties and luster characteristics were examined using the KES-FB series instruments and a set of luster measuring equipment. The chitosan treatment seemed to be more effective in terms of increasing stiffness for cotton fabric. Since cotton fibers have more -OH groups in the molecules, they provide more linkage sites with the chitosan than the nylon 6 fibers do.