• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.9
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.699-707
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• 2013

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract were 100% v/v, $80^{\circ}C$, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods with increasing mordant concentration. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Cu or Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Thuja orientalis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction. The dyed and mordanted fabric with Thuja orientalis extract showed a superior ultraviolet protection property.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.42-42
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• 2011

To evaluate the Hwangsu spring as natural mordants effect on dyeing. The natural mordants effect of Hwangsu spring were analyzed by pH, temperature, trace elements, organic matter and color fastness. Hwangsu spring having pH 2.42 and $14.4^{\circ}C$ was harvested at the end of September, in Yeongcheon (Gyeongbuk Province, Korea) and left on a $0^{\circ}C$ and $25^{\circ}C$ before use. Hwangsu spring during storage at $25^{\circ}C$ turned brown by photochemical reaction. The Result of ICP analysis, it contained Fe(414.9 ppm), Al(88.9 ppm), Mn(4.9 ppm) and observed character by water analysis. Dyeing and post-mordant procedure; Cotton(KS K 0905) were dyed with clove powder for 30 min at $70^{\circ}C$. Hwangsu spring, Aluminium Sulfate $14-18H_20(Al_2(SO_4)_3{\cdot}14-18H_2O)$, Iron Sulfate Heptahydrate($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) were used by post mordant at the same ratio. The dyed fabrics were treated with 20% each mordant solution at $25^{\circ}C$ for 10min. Comparison with a reproduced chemical mordant, the K/S values of cotton fabrics dyed with Hwangsu sping were increased.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.461-476
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• 2013

This study aims to provide practical information of both color and hands of cotton fabrics dyed with persimmon dye powder for natural dyeing fashion industries by investigating dyeing behavior and color gamut, by testing mechanical properties depending on color characteristics, and finally by evaluating dyeing fastness. As results, the persimmon dye powder obtained by extracting the fruits to final solid powder was found as containing tannin and it partially coated between and on fibers similarly to traditionally dyed one. The K/S values of non-mordanted fabric and two differently mordanted ones with Fe and Cu seemed to reach their equilibrium from 800, 800, and 600% (owf), respectively. Yellow-red was the only one hue shown while tones were various as pale (p), light grayish (ltg), soft (sf), dull (d), grayish (g), and dark grayish (dkg). In mechanical properties, the dyed fabrics with p and ltg tended to be less altered than undyed ones whereas d and d kg by higher bath concentrations could be applied to boxy silhouette owing to their increased stiffness and less stretchability. Although fastness to dry cleaning and stain was good, color change by washing and rubbing needed to be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.431-441
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• 2011

Microbial colorants produced from Zooshikella sp. were developed as a reddish dye for fabrics. The reddish colorants were extracted from cell mass of Zooshikella sp. using 100% ethanol and were identified as prodiginine by 1H-NMR and FT-IR analysis. Microbial prodiginine had a maximum spectrophotomatric absorbance at 530nm and were chemically stable and 30 to $60^{\circ}C$. The microbial prodiginine could dye natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool as well as synthetic fibers such as nylon. The maximum K/S values of the dyed fiber were shown at 540 run with a color appearance of RP (reddish purple). Silk and nylon had an excellent dyeability among the experimental fibers. The optimum pH for the dyeing of experimental fibers was at pH 3.0 and dyeability was improved as the temperature increased. The cover change of dyed multifiber fabrics with the microbial prodiginine were measured after washing with detergents and a dry cleaning solvent for the selection of a proper fabric against microbial prodiginine. Among the experimental fibers, silk and nylon did not show significant color change after washing. Therefore, under the criteria of dyeability, silk and nylon were excellent fabrics for being dyed by microbial prodiginine.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.56-64
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• 2013

In order to examine the availability of color developing for prepared persimmon extract powder dyes, purified and freeze-dried powder from immature persimmon fruit. The cotton fabrics dyed with 1% concentration of powder dyes. This study was conducted to examine into the color developing effects of the powder dye for the dyed cotton fabrics irradiated with xenon light. Powder dye is difficult to dissolve in water resulting in a colloidal and viscous solution. The problem of solubility in water was resolved by setting the dyeing conditions by wetting the dye with alcohol in advance and dissolving in warm water($50{\sim}60^{\circ}C$). Samples had no alkaline conversion in making process of powder dyes showed high color developing effect(${\Delta}E^*$, K/S). Samples showed decreased ${\Delta}E^*$, K/S with increased alkaline conversion in making process of powder dyes. Samples that had alkaline effects displayed easy early color developing to be advantageous in the process of natural pattern in art work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.804-816
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• 2009

This study was aimed to analyze color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with a variety of commercial natural dyes focusing on hue/tone system. Using eleven different natural dyes, single and sequential dyeing were performed under a variety of conditions of dye bath concentration, mordanting, and dyeing sequences. Color characteristics of dyed silk fabrics were investigated by Munsell's color notation of H V/C and PCCS (Practical Color Coordination System) tones. As results, most of yellowish natural dyes as principal shades in natural dyeing showed Y or YR for hue families while d, ltg, and g for tone, which agrees with colors frequently used in comtemporary apparel industries. As for single dyeing, some hues like R, RP, G, GY, and BG were found to have their own tones owing to the used natural dyes. For varying hues in natural dyeing, sequential dyeing is useful in that GY, G, and BG rarely appeared in single dyeing were frequently shown in sequential dyeing by combination of some dyes. In the other hands, mordanting may be employed for tone variation in that aluminum seemed to contribute to light and dull tones, copper to dull, and ferrum to garyish and dark ones. These results can be helpful to design colors for fashion fields by natural dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.138-146
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• 2013

Chemical compositions and biological functions of brown colorants extracted from pine bark(Pinus densiflora) have been studied. Dyeing test using multifiber fabrics with extracted colorants were preliminary carried out. Dyeing conditions and fastness tests of selected fabrics have been also studied. The brown colorants were produced 1.5% concentrations by solvent extraction from milled pine bark using methanol. The colorants were extracted with 80% methanol as best choice by a criteria of solid quantity and dyeability on fabrics. The chemical compositions were identified as mixtures of taxifolin epicatechin and procyanidin by LC/MS analysis. The brown colorants could be dyed not only natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool but also synthetic fiber as nylon and semi-synthetic fiber as viscose rayon. Maximum K/S values was shown at 400 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of redish brown. Optimum pH and temperature of dyeing conditions was 4 and above $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The brown colorants had a strong antioxidant activity compared to Butylated hydroxyanisole as standard and weak antimicrobial activity against E. coli. compared to kanamycin. Washing, rubbing, perspiration, dry cleaning and light fastness for cotton, nylon and silk dyed with the brown colorants were carried out by KS K method. Most of color fastness such as washing, rubbing, perspiration, and dry cleaning were represented as 4-5 grade. However, light fastness was reported as 2-3 grade. From this studies, brown colorants produced pine bark have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics with antioxidant activity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.234-238
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• 2004

Loess was selected as one of the natural dyes and dye solution was extracted from it. With the dyes extracted from loess, the sample fabrics were dyed at 10, 20, and 30 minutes and then $CuSO_4$ was used to treat the dyed fabrics on the concentration of 3%, and 5%. Color difference and colorfastness of the sample fabrics with dyeing time and concentration of post-mordanted agent were analysed. The results were as follows: 1. Effective dying time was 20 minutes since any more dye up-take to the fabrics did not occur after that time. 2. There was distinctive dyeing effect according to whether post-mordanted method was done or not, but there was little effect between post-mordanted concentration of 3% and 5%. 3. There was no effect of the colorfastness on the post-mordanted concentration. The abrasion and laundering colorfastness of post-mordanted fabric samples was better than those of no post-mordanted fabric samples and the light colorfastness of the fabric samples was good regardless of post-mordanted method.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.