• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.193-199
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• 2013

본 연구에서는 황토를 이용한 인견직물의 천연염색에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 인견직물의 카티온화가 이루어졌으며, 여러가지 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH와 욕비에 따른 염착특성을 평가하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하였으며 이에 따른 염색된 인견직물의 견뢰도 평가를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 수비법으로 얻은 황토분말의 입자 크기는 $0.4{\sim}1.7{\mu}m$ 범위로 나타났으며 $1.1{\sim}1.4{\mu}m$범위내의 분포가 가장 많은 것으로 나타났다. 황토성분을 분석한 결과, 이산화규소와 산화알루미늄이 많은 양을 차지하는 것으로 나타났다. 인견 직물의 암모늄기의 도입에 의한 양이온화는 FT-IR 흡수스펙트럼에서 $1,540cm^{-1}$ 부근의 N-H bending에 의한 출현 peak로 확인할 수 있었다. 염색 pH에 따른 K/S 값은 pH 8에서 가장 높게 나타났으며, 염색시간에 따른 K/S 값은 시간이 경과함에 따라 염색시간 30분까지는 급격히 증가하다가 그 이상의 시간에서는 거의 증가하지 않았다. 황토농도에 따른 K/S 값은 20% 이하의 농도에서는 약간 증가하지만 30%에서 최고값을 보여준 후 점차 감소하는 경향으로 나타났다. 콩즙의 전처리농도에 따른 K/S 값은 처리농도 30% 까지는 증가하였으나 그 이상의 농도에서는 오히려 약간 감소하는 경향으로 나타났다. 황토염색직물의 황토염착 분포 및 염착 상태를 관찰한 결과 황토 염색 농도가 증가함에 따라 황토입자의 부착량이 많아짐을 알 수 있다. 양이온화 처리에 의해서도 황토의 부착량이 증가하는 것을 볼 수 있으며, 콩즙을 처리하면 콩즙이 직물의 표면을 감싸는 모습을 볼 수 있으며, 콩즙을 처리하지 않은 시료에 비해 콩즙을 전처리한 시료에 더 많은 양의 황토입자가 부착되어 있는 것을 확인할 수 있다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.173-183
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• 2002

The orchid has a very elegant color and various forms in the nature or the ground for human life and the mother of life, The purpose of this study is to express some creative formative art by using the orchid as motive, and thereby, suggest the possibility of an artistic modern costume design by reviewing the texture of the materials. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, it was confirmed through this study that the orchid with diverse forms and colors can be used as design motive in almost infinitely diverse ways, and that all the artificial forms or structures contain the elements of natural beauty. Second, the luxurious and rich sense of orchid‘s color can be maximized by using the complementary contrast effect of the dyeing technique and the color gradation effect through harmony among similar colors. Third, a high value-added costume can be created to meet modern men’s aesthetic desire by using such embroidery techniques as crochet, weaving, dyeing, beads embroidery and art flower. Fourth, different effects of texture can be rendered by using different materials of various textures and characteristics. In addition, the possibility of creative expression for costume as formative art can be enhanced by expanding the expressions of the materials.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.230-236
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• 2014

The kapok fibers which are the functional fiber materials having natural hollows are environment friendly materials the demand and interest of which are increasing. The kapok fibers are environment friendly and natural hollow fibers which are 5-8 times lighter than cottons and have excellent performances in thermo keeping property, air permeability, bulkiness and resilience. In this study, the pretreatment according to the dyeing behaviors of kapok fibers were studied. Pretreatment(scouring, bleaching) were a variety of conditions. Scouring and bleaching, images of changed surfaces and cross-sections and dyeing behaviors of the dye-o-meter according to the concentration measured in meters and compared. Although the final exhaustion ratio of the kapok fibers scoured with a high concentration recipe was almost as same as that of the kapok fibers bleached with a high concentration recipe, the initial absorption speed of the kapok fibers scoured with the high concentration recipe was faster than that of the kapok fibers bleached with the high concentration recipe.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

우리나라는 오천 년 역사를 이어오는 동안 우수한 문화자산을 축적해 왔으면서도 문화를 상품화하는 일을 소홀히 하였다. 그 결과 세계인이 인정하는 기술이 있으면서도 세계에 내놓을 만한 훌륭한 문화상품이 없다. 따라서 전통문화 속의 독특한 소재를 활용하여 현대적인 감각으로 재 디자인하여 상품화하는 것이 필요하다. 천연염색에 의한 직물은 채도가 낮으므로 특별한 배색조화를 하지 않아도 잘 어울리며, 자연스럽고 편안한 느낌을 준다. 따라서 천연염색으로 얻어진 직물들은 문화상품 개발을 위하여 매우 적절한 소재라고 생각된다. 또한 한지는 질기고 중후하며 우아한 느낌을 지니고 있어서 그 자체로 예술의 한 분야를 구축할 수 있는 우수한 소재라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 세계적으로 뛰어난 한지를 소재로 한 한지직물을 활용하여, 쪽, 홍화, 황벽, 그리고 자근으로 천연 염색하였다. 그 염색 직물을 활용하여 두 대의 양산과 카드 지갑의 문화상품을 만들어 제시하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.1-7
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• 1984

Traditionally dyeing fabrics with pigment extracted from carthamus flower was a popular method of obtaining red color in Korea. Such a method existed in several countries throughout the world before the synthetic dyestuff was developed. However, the traditional procedures of using natural products in obtaining colored materials are completely forgotten in modern Korea. The details of dyeing procedures fare not well documented in literature, either. In this study the method of extracting and dyeing with carthamus flower is reconstructed from Korean literature and actually carried out in laboratorf. The reconstructed method is compared with those of Japan, China, France, and Egypt, and the scientific basis of such an ancient tradition is discussed. Carthamus contains two kinds of coloring components : yellow carthamin and red carthamone. Water-soluble carthamin is first extracted by repeated washing and is usually used for the initial soaking procedure. Then carthamone is extracted in alkali solution by adding ashes of dried plants such as carthamus stalks and bean hull. Finally the solution of carthamone is made acidic by adding schizandra juice for dyeing on fabrics.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.247-250
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• 2007

This study was performed to investigate the discrimination of Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Angelica gigantis root has been used as a Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of woman disease. Natural dyes give us many great benefits, including diversified color, but no pollution. These studies were carried out acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was dyed with Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis. The results of experiment showed as follows: In discrimination by dyeing, the colors of Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis were very similar, but that of Angelica gigas was different. There were no differences among colors of materials using non-mordant. But dyeing with iron acetate and copper dichloride were showed dark in Angelica gigas than other angelica species.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2023

In this study, the influence of pre-treatment(bleaching, mercerization by liquid ammonia and caustic soda) on cotton fabrics were investigated on dyeing Rubia cordifolia extracts. Aluminium Sulfate, Iron(Ⅱ) Sulfate Heptahydrate, Copper(Ⅱ) Sulfate Pentahydrate, Tin(Ⅱ) Sulfate, Manganese(Ⅱ) Chloride Tetrahydrate were used as mordanting agents. K/S value and washing fastnesses of the dyed cotton fabrics pretreated under different conditions were investigated. The K/S values were increased in the order of bleaching, liquid ammonia and mercerization pre-treatment. It was found that the pre-treatment conditions did not significantly affect the color change. The colorfastness to washing of most of all dyed fabrics were over grade 4 regardless of pre-treatment condition.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제49권2호
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• pp.134-141
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• 2021

This study was conducted to investigate the potential of the neutral extract (NE) prepared by treating P. radiata bark with aqueous NaHCO3 solution as a natural dyestuff. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed at four different NE concentrations, 0.5%, 1.0%, 1.5%, and 2.0% o.w.b. (on the weight of bath). The fabric to liquid ratio of 1 : 50, dyeing temperature of 90℃, and dyeing time of 90 min were used as the fixed condition. The appropriate NE dyeing concentration of silk and cotton fabrics was 1.5% o.w.b. Colors of the dyed silk and cotton fabrics were brown and light brown, respectively. From colorfastness assessment, both dyed silk and cotton showed good washing and rubbing fastness, but poor light fastness. NE dyed fabrics exhibited excellent ammonia deodorization property and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. Therefore, NE of P. radiata bark could have the potential for use as a functional brown dyestuff.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2010

It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.