A Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing Procedure of Carthamus Flower

고대 홍화(Carthamus tinctorius L.) 염색의 실험적 고찰

Traditionally dyeing fabrics with pigment extracted from carthamus flower was a popular method of obtaining red color in Korea. Such a method existed in several countries throughout the world before the synthetic dyestuff was developed. However, the traditional procedures of using natural products in obtaining colored materials are completely forgotten in modern Korea. The details of dyeing procedures fare not well documented in literature, either. In this study the method of extracting and dyeing with carthamus flower is reconstructed from Korean literature and actually carried out in laboratorf. The reconstructed method is compared with those of Japan, China, France, and Egypt, and the scientific basis of such an ancient tradition is discussed. Carthamus contains two kinds of coloring components : yellow carthamin and red carthamone. Water-soluble carthamin is first extracted by repeated washing and is usually used for the initial soaking procedure. Then carthamone is extracted in alkali solution by adding ashes of dried plants such as carthamus stalks and bean hull. Finally the solution of carthamone is made acidic by adding schizandra juice for dyeing on fabrics.