• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제14권9호
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• pp.423-429
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• 2016

캐릭터를 꾸미는 일련의 과정들을 캐릭터 커스터마이징이라 부르는데 현재 온라인 RPG게임보다 모바일 RPG게임의 커스터 마이징 시스템이 질적으로나 양적으로도 매우 부족한 상황이다. 그래서 본 논문은 모바일 환경에 적합한 게임 DIY 캐릭터 시스템을 위한 효율적인 제안을 하고자 한다. 선택 시스템(Select System)이 RPG장르의 주 커스터마이징 시스템으로 사용되는 이유는 첫 번째, 모바일 기기의 화면이 작다는 점이다. 두 번째로 모바일 게임을 하는 시간과 공간의 특징 때문이다. 게임의 중간 부분에서도 커스터마이징 할 수 있도록 하는 '성형 시스템'을 도입해서 플레이어들이 지루함을 느끼지 않고 색다른 변화를 추구할 수 있도록 해야 한다. 더불어 기존에 하고 있던 아바타 코스튬 또한 지속적인 업데이트가 필요하다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.299-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to research the heroines' fashion styles in the opera, "La Boh$\`{e}$me." This article studied the representations of the grisettes in 1830's France and the characteristics of the grisettes appeared in the original novel, "Sc$\`{e}$nes de la Vie de Boh$\`{e}$me" and contemporary literatures and paintings. The one of the heroines, Mimi was figured a virtuous female despite poor environments, by contrast Musetta was described as cruel, greedy and vicious female in the opera. But, by analyzing the original novel and the representations of the grisettes in contemporary literatures, this study figured out clearly Mimi and Musetta have same origin and similar aspects, not contrast. Up to the present mimi's costumes were not sophisticated but too simple compared to Musetta's. Also Musetta's costume were too much luxury considering her status. This study proposed a new fashion style considering not only analysis result of the heroins' characteristics but contemporary costume design of the 1830's France.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2019

Appropriation is of considerable significance in a cultural trend of thought, as one of the means of realizing the post-modernism period. With the increasing use of appropriation techniques in modern fashion, it is necessary to study the external performance and internal aesthetic value of appropriation in fashion. In the book of cultural appropriation, American scholar James o young divides into three categories of appropriation in culture, namely: object appropriation, content appropriation, and subject appropriation. Based on James O Young's three types of appropriation techniques summarized in the theory of the cultural appropriation, the purpose of this study is through the appropriation of the poncho of traditional Mexican clothing in modern fashion as an example; analyzing the external appropriation characteristics and internal aesthetic significance of different appropriation type. The results are as follows. First, designers take the Originality in modern fashion by expressing Mexican Poncho's form, color, pattern, and material as it is through object appropriation technique. Second, through the Mexican folk poncho's style, designers used these to show the similarity produced by content appropriation in modern fashion. Third, designers used the poncho's design concept or poncho's culture, blending the theme of the collection, adding different color, pattern or materials such as fur, lace, and wool, and presenting a new image different from folk costumes through creative subject appropriation technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.289-306
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• 2021

The study aims to define the Korean Wave as global attention to Korea's unique culture and consider the specificity of traditional Korean fashion images in Korean Wave content. The research method of this study is a case study through literature research. In order to collect Korean Wave content on YouTube, 24 channels with the highest number of views were selected from among content uploaded from 2018 to the present through keyword search, and up to two channels with high views showing traditional Korean fashion images. As a result of selecting the analysis target, 41 Korean Wave videos and 368 costumes were selected and analyzed based on fashion style elements, including item, color, detail, motif, styling, silhouette, and accessory. As a result of the study, music, broadcast, fashion, and other content were found in the Korean Wave content fields in which Korean fashion style appeared, and the characteristics of each field were derived. Music content was characterized by fashion style excluding stereotypes about traditional Korean costume, broadcast and fashion content was characterized by fashion style inherited from traditional costume, and other content was characterized by symbolic fashion style of traditional culture. This study is meaningful in revealing the formative characteristics of traditional Korean design elements recently shared online through the study of Korean traditional fashion images in Korean Wave content.

• 복식
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• 제13권
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• pp.21-37
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• 1989

In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2010

Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.