• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.365-372
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• 2017

This study systematically identified the influence of the school look fashion image on public culture, which is used for increasingly sexualized marketing appeal by domestic Girl Groups. We examined and analyzed the school look fashion image of Girl Groups, focusing on the Lolita complex which is particularly influential in the sexual appeal of domestic popular fashion. The method of this study is based on a literature review from the years 2007 to 2016, when the female girl groups began to receive attention. The music videos of the female girl groups in the top 100 charts of 'Melon' from 2006 to 2-16, which provides the largest mobile music service in Korea, were watched and analyzed as primary data. As a result, it was found that the 'school fashion look image' of adolescence which was used as costumes for Girl Groups, plays a role in commercializing the image of a 'girl', and the types and characteristics of school look fashion image are drawn in two ways. First, it is the image of a seductive Lolita complex. This is the case where young girls wear school look fashion image to emphasize their sexual maturity. Second, it is the case that is using the school look fashion image in order to perform with the 'young girl' concept, as an image of the enchanting Lolita complex; in addition, the erotic body image is more explicitly exposed through choreography and nakedness.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.15-24
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• 2013

Chil-sa head-wear excavated in Buksandong of Ulsan is precious relic with historical, cultural, social and artistic values because it shows head-wear shape at the period of Goryeo dynasty with the invaluable worth in the field of Korean traditional costumes. Also, this excavated head-wear provides the empirical information about Goryeo dynasty which has relatively insufficient remains. The purposes of this study are to recover and maintain the original states of the artifacts from various environmental factors and then to preserve the materials from rapid decomposition. As a result, the original shape of the head-wear from Goryeo dynasty can be conserved and through the material and structure analysis it is found out that the head-wear's surface structure is composed of silk(紗) and the ground structure is made by bamboo(竹絲).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.56-72
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.765-780
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• 2012

This study was investigated the clothing microclimate, subjective sensation for the improvement of traditional koran high school student uniform so called "Saenghwal Hanbok". For the purpose, casual hanbok school summer uniforms were made. They were made of 4 different textiles materials - P/R, P100, P/C, P/R/S for blouses, P/W, P100, P/R, P/W/F for skirts. Then their clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were tested at room temperature $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. Clothing Microclimates wearing on the blouses were good matched comfort temperature range. Subjective sensations wearing on the blouses were better than those of traditional koran clothes so called "Hanbok" and quite same for western style clothes. Thermal sensations were indicated some hot condition, and moisture sensations were indicated some wet condition but tactile sensations and comfortable sensations were agreeable. The temperatures of the forehead and the breast wearing on the skirts were indicated the same results with the cases of the blouses. Leg temperatures were some lower than the mean skin temperature, the other parts' temperatures were slightly higher than blouses but the mean skin temperatures were satisfied comfortable ranges. Subjective sensations wearing on the skirts were better than those of the other traditional clothes and even Western clothes. Thermal sensations and moisture sensations were resulted the same with the case of blouses. Currently, P/R material and P/W material seemed to be cool and respectively suitable for blouses and skirts in summer among the materials of modernized Korean traditional costumes and school uniforms, since those materials lowered skin temperature. But better, physiologically pleasant materials for summer clothes should be development in consideration of clothing microclimate and subjective sensation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.99-108
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• 2017

In modern society, the succession and development of tradition can be an enabler of the state in the flow of culture, and the process of modernizing traditional costumes is meaningful work. Neckties are essential in modern Korean men's wear, and they are an important part of men's ornamentation. Accordingly, this study aims to present a necktie design that applies the traditional men's ornaments such as the Ip, Ipyoung and Manggeonsik. The research method is based on a literature review and presents four Korean necktie designs via Adobe Illustrations. As a result of analyzing the beauty of the traditional Korean men's ornamentation, it was categorized into rhythmical beauty, emphasis beauty, and natural beauty. Applying this to necktie design, Design 1 imagined the silhouette of a man wearing a Got and Durumagi. This applied emphasis beauty. Design 2 applied the shaking images of Got and Got-kkeun to apply rhythmical and emphasis beauty. Design 3 applied a man's upper body silhouette and the shape of wearing a Got. This was to apply natural beauty and emphasis beauty. Design 4 applied the shape of Got-kkeun and Gwanja to rhythmical beauty and natural beauty. The significance of this study is that the development of necktie designs using formative Korean elements can be a part of efforts to recognize the possibility of traditional Korean culture and to explore developmental directions under the current situation in which Western clothing is accepted without thought. It is a good idea to suggest the possibility of the modern use of Korean men's ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.120-135
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• 2010

Since emotion, creativity, and imagination has become the source of creating added value, the purpose of this study is to grasp the concept of high concept which has appeared as a major key word of modern culture and analyze the types of emotional expression found in modern fashion. Study methods were focused on literature review and case study. The literature review was conducted by news stories at home and abroad. The examples of case study were collected in fashion collection journals and related Internet web sites with their focus on from 2000 S/S to 2009 F/W to analyze emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion. The concept of 'high concept' suggested by Pink, Daniel H. lays on stress on ability to creative emotional value or cultural artistic value hidden behind the functional value, to make stories, and to combine ideas which do not seem to be connected with existing things. As a result of study, The forms of emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion included: art collaboration and art inspiration which were expressed through cross-category of culture and art; multi-culture design which expresses a mixture between western fashion and oriental costumes; funology design which expresses efficient value by high technology and fun value through humorous elements; and emotional digital design which can be transformed in function, shape and the use of materials representing light which is effectively used for fashion to represent fantasy or illusion connected with digital technology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.403-408
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• 2021

From the perspective that RPG games give players a sense of reality, the characterization of game characters can be said to be at the heart of design behavior. The personality of a unique character enhances the player's concern and commitment, allowing players to experience a variety of experiences. Through theoretical research and case analysis, this paper analyzes the expression of individuality in RPG game character design. In the RPG game, the way to express the character's individuality is first based on the game's time-space background, plot, task, etc. to inform the character's general gender, race, occupation, and skills. In line with the application and use of the characters, the roles will be developed in a concrete and rich way, and the shapes, movements, colors, costumes and weapons will be more refined. The purpose of this study is to obtain the main factors that influence RPG character's personality design from the viewpoint of perceptual design theory. In addition, it is proposed that the RPG game character personality design method should be adopted.