• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.650-661
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.$\textrm{cm}^2$/cm(0.3$\sigma$); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3$\sigma$) Weight: within 9.33mg/$\textrm{cm}^2$(18$\sigma$); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8$\sigma$)

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.325-333
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• 1992

The objectives of this study were 1) to investigate the clothing needs of physically han- dicapped children, 2) to present the basic data to make the slacks patterns which meet the specific needs of physically handicapped children under study. Questionnaires were administered to 38 mothers of handicapped children and the subjects for the wear test were five handicapped children using wheelchair. The fabrics used for slacks wear test were: muslin woven with cotton, stretchable jean woven and double jersey knitted with cotton and polyester fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) The majority of the handicapped children were wearing ready·made-garments and their mothers considered the fabric elasticity first. 2) The slacks wear test indicated that the slacks ease of 8 cm should be added above the natural waist line in the back for the wheelchair bound children. 3) In a sitting posture on the wheelchair, $3\~4$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front but in a standing posture, $1\~2$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front. 4) The double jersey (cotton/polyester) slacks was highly estimated of ease ana length of slacks in a sitting posture. The stretchable jean (cotton/spandex) slacks was estimated high of appearance but muslin slacks (cotton) was less estimated of ease and appearance of slacks.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Journal of Korean Neurosurgical Society
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.66-72
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• 2001

Apatient with multiple dissecting aneurysms of a posterior inferior cerebellar artery trunk who presented with SAH is reported. A 58-year-old woman presented with sudden occipital headache, dizziness and vomiting. The intial vertebral angiography revealed a suspicious pearl and string sign at the proximal posterior inferior cerebellar artery(PICA) segment. After 2 weeks, follow up angiography showed a progression of the proximal PICA dissection and newly developed dissecting aneurysm of the distal PICA segment. A far lateral suboccipital transcondylar appoach confirmed two dissecting aneurysms at distant sites of the PICA trunk. The dissection segments were wrapped with muslin wrap, which preserved the flow through the PICA and brain stem perforators. The angiographys at 3 weeks and 6 months after operation revealed serial disappearance of the dissecting aneurysms which is distal to proximal. The diagnosis, course and treatment of the dissecting aneurysms of the PICA are discussed with literature review.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.501-509
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• 2008

This research intends to help local small fashion industry to outgrow its limitation, preserving and developing environment-friendly dyeing tradition in Jeju renowned for persimmon juice dyeing. The study, then, aims to develop eco-friendly golf-wear designs, with maximizing advantages of natural dyeing (with persimmon juice, indigo plant, gallnut, cochineal, turmeric, and loess) such as rot-proofness, bacteria-proofness, stench-proofness and block of ultraviolet rays. The results are as follows: first, natural fabrics such as muslin(cotton 100%), linen(linen 100%) and spandex(mixed cotton 98%, polyurethane 2%) were developed into eco-friendly ones colored with various natural dye sources. Second, four kinds of golf-wear design were developed to stand out golf wear's natural image, focused on classic, neo-minimal style. The characteristic details and design elements of sportswear were added to basic golf wear design. Therefore, it is hopeful that those designs of naturally dyed golf wear for women could be utilized for other various purposes in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.151-155
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• 1978

General components and detergency of commercial shampoos have been investigated and the results are summerized in the following. Shampoos were analyzed for surfactants and additives by KS method and surfactants were confirmed by T.L.C. Considerable differences in amounts of non volatiles and surfactants were found. Three of them contain either lanoline or sterols as additives and in the three. propylene glycol was found in their liquid part. It was shown that predominant sufactant was anionic and in all, except one. a little ampholytic surfactant was detected. But, contrary to forecast, in only one a little of non ionic surfactant was detected. Detergency of shampoos was examined using artificially soiled wool muslin. Considerable difference was found, and all shampoos showed higher detergency than a synthetic powder type detergent for textiles. There were no significant correlation between detergency and amount of surfactants or suspending power of detergents.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.105-111
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• 2002

E-business has been regarded as new type of marketing channels and has been growing rapidly. The purpose of this study was to investigate textile sensibility depending on consumers' purchase experience of apparel product in e-business. The analyses of 202 questionnaires were conducted by frequency, mean, and standard deviation, and t-test using SPSS 10.0. Computer setting environment was 1280$\times$1024 resolution with 96 DPI (dots per inch) for this experiment. The results of this research were as follows: Melton (flat axis), habutae (thin axis), suede (wet axis), and terry (rustic axis) showed that there were no significant differences in textile sensibility regarding purchasing experience in the cyber apparel store. But oxford (hard axis) showed that purchasing experience group perceived less modern and smooth textile sensibility than no purchasing experience group. In case of linen (dry axis), purchasing experience group showed less modern textile sensibility. In case of muslin (soft axis), purchasing experience group had more flat and less soft textile sensibility than no purchasing experience group. In case of homespun (thick axis), purchasing experience group perceived less modern textile sensibility than no purchasing experience group.