• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.147-162
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• 2011

The performance-art costume is a tool for expression that can dynamically display the intention of a production. The purpose of this study is to examine the whole costume for performance arts targeting musical works, to which were added such elements as music, dance, and drama, among performance arts in several genres. This study aims to consider how the symbol contained in the costume was intended to be expressed by inferring a change in performance costume and character as the stage costume. Accordingly, the following research problems were established in this study. First, Which role does the costume play in performance art? Second, into which types can the performance-art costume be classified depending on the kind of performance art? Third, what is the expressive method for the performance-art costume? To examine the types of performance-art costume, the acting costume, the singing costume, the dancing costume and the rhythmic performance costume were considered. As a result, the performance costume can be seen to have been designed through the effect of a change in color by lighting, through the differentiation of character caused by excessive decoration, through the differentiation in material for free movement, and through symbolic expression.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.16-33
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• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.115-132
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is that to study of musical performer's purchasing behavior, satisfaction and design preference, and to give the information for better performance costume market based on that result. The target for the survey is limited only for above 4th grade female students and have experienced more than three times of performances. Total 364 questionnaires are used for this research. The SPSS was used for the analysis. The results were, first, in the survey of place of purchasing, specialty shop for musical performance shop was the most. The most group for the budget that they spent was under 100,000 Won. Rational price for costume would be 150,000-300,000 Won. Most people purchase costume before 2 weeks and compare 3-4 stores mostly. There were not many complaints about being comfort for costume itself. The preference for costume was different depends on not only scale of performance but also whether solo, duet or trio or more. Also harmony with other person costume was most consideration factor when they perform duet or more. For the choice of shop factor following were considered the most important; various selections, kindness of sales persons and possibility for trying various costumes. However, locations of shop or delivery service were not important relatively. For the choice of costume factor, design color, comfort and functionality were considered the most important but price, quality and decoration were not. For 'the satisfaction after purchase costume' factor, people's opinions, best appearance on the stage and meeting image with themselves were considered the most important. Second, on the subject for 'design preference of costume based on type of performance', people chose different color of dress depends on what types of performance. In case of solo, they prefer vivid primary color; in case of trio or more, they prefer black; in case of duet, they prefer pastel tone. As for preference of sleeve design, all of them prefer non-sleeve type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are to understand shapes, characteristics and source on the costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner. Baekche accepted to incense burner as one of developed culture through exchange with China. Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner includes mixed Thought of Confucian, Buddhism and Taoism from China. The five musicians showed in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are symbols that include Confucian Ohang-thought and peaceful reign based on musical combination and arrangement. So, musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner to pray to God for Happiness showed as a kind of Genii. As a results of analyzing costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are as follows; Upper garments which open in the center front have wide sleeves and tie up in high waist position. Under garments are long and wide skirts. Those costume styles of musicians were to follow spreaded costumes in the Continent at that time. In conclusion, costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner was showed to receive influence of costume style in China Whijinambukjo period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2021

Hoseonmu belongs to the genre of a composite of song, music, and dance. At that time, there was no widely known record of Hoseonmu in Baekje, but it is clear that it was popular enough to be invited to Changan by Emperor Yang of Sui. The musical instruments, songs, and dances were analyzed through the research method of literature and the content of the Hoseonmu version was established. The setting of the stage for the performance of Baekje instrumental music reveals its characteristics through sabangak from Gigaku in the neighboring countries. The stage for Hoseonmu was set up utilizing the creation of the imperial performance stage in the Baekje instrumental music. In particular, Hoseonmu has two types: heavenly and earthly. The heavenly Hoseonmu can be found on the wall of the Cave No. 220 formed in the Chodang (618-707) era. They include Dongbang Pharmacopoeia jingbian and Western Paradise jingbian. Hoseonmu would have chosen to be the fast-paced spinning dance. Motions for Hoseonmu could be set up through them. Meanwhile, Mimaji's instrumental dance is presented. Six dancers appear in two turns of the performance. Four dancers in front row and other two in the back are dressed up as hunters, wearing goblin masks, and holding flowering plum tree branches in their right hands. Through this, the movements and costumes of Hoseonmu are reproduced in more detail. Various sectors of education, theater, dance, and tourism in the Hoseonmu contents of Baekje instrumental music contributed to the Korean Wave.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.62-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

This study examined the costumes of the characters in the painting titled Hig yongru Banghwoedo, which was designated as National Treasure No. 1879 in September 2015, and is currently kept in the Dongguk University Museum. The painting depicts a social gathering of Joseon aristocrats held at the higyongru, or watch tower, of the Gwangjumok, a government office, in 1567. It is characterized by the delicate illustration of the government officials, the main characters of the gathering, and the hyangri, ajeon, najang, chorye, akgong, and yeogi, the lower-class employees of the office. In order to investigate the costumes they wore, diverse materials including literature, costume artifacts, and paintings were used as reference sources. The scope of the study was limited to the characters' headdress and gown, and the accessories attached to the former. The study of men's clothing revealed that officials wore a samo and a red dalryeong as basic attire. In addition, it is presumed that they wore a belt indicating their official rank in the hierarchy, and a pair of black shoes. Retired officials wore a heuklip wrapped in horsehair or silk fabric with a red jing-nyeong and a doah. The hyangri wore a heukjukbanglip on their head, as well as a white jing-nyeong and a belted doah. In the Goryeo period, the banglip was a type of official headdress worn by members of the aristocratic elite ranked immediately below the king, but in Joseon it was demoted as the official headgear of the hyangri class, which was confirmed through Higyongru Banghwoedo. The ajeon wore a heuklip on their head, and a white jing-nyeong and a doah at the waist. As a rule, the najang wore a chogun on the head, and a banbieui on cheolrik and chungmokdai, but the najang in Higyongru Banghwoedo are depicted wearing a chogun and a cheolrik without a banbieui. Also, the chorye wore a heuklip wrapped in hemp cloth with a red cheolrik, whereas the akgong wore a somoja and a red cheolrik. Female entertainers, both adults and children, are depicted in the painting as either serving the aristocrats, dancing, or playing a musical instrument, wearing their hair in a voluminous, round, high bun, and dressed in a red daiyo, a hwangjangsam with a straight or reclined collar, and a belt. Notably, the donggi, i.e. young gisaeng, are shown wearing their hair in two short braids, and ddressed in a red gown with a y-shaped collar, or po.