• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.26-31
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• 2007

Hanji is a traditional Korean handmade paper, which has been known in ancient Far East as excellent quality calligraphic paper for more than 1,500 year. Hanji is mostly made of Korean paper mulberry bast fibers, and if properly processed, normally lasts for more than 1,000 years with significant strength and still recognizable calligraphic writings or drawings on it. Dochim is a special way of Hanji calendering process, but is turned out to be quite different from modern calendering (machine calendering) in several aspects. In Dochim process, mechanical impacts were applied vertically to the surface of papers. Compared to the modern calendering, Dochim increased paper gloss much more, but paper smoothness a little less. By the Dochim process, densification occurred and the degree of densification was more sensitive to the fiber type in the Dochim process than in the calendering method.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.407-420
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• 2018

Old documents related to the head family of admiral Yi Sun-shin have been preserved by the descendants of Deoksu Yi clan and various kinds of documents have remained even today. Seven documents issued by the king,"Goshin Gyoji", "Jeunggik Gyoji", "Gyochub", "Gyoseo", "Yuseo", "Hongpae", and "Chikmyung", showed the time when they were made. Because they have been kept in their original form, these documents make it possible to identify the characteristics of the paper used to create documents during that time and to compare the records in those documents with other cultural properties based on scientific investigation and analysis of conservation treatment processing. The characteristics of Oebal-tteugi(Heulim-tteugi) in the papermaking process were identified through the shape of the surface fibers, and Dochim processing was found in most of the old documents with the help of density measurement and paper surface analysis. All the papers were found to be made of paper mulberry, and bast fibers of mature mulberry were mainly used for the process.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.51-61
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• 2012

The new alkali pulping process combined with electron beam treatment was applied to utilize hemp bast tissues as a new valuable fibrous resource. Hemp bast tissues have some chemical properties with high lignin contents and holocellulose not to be defiberized by alkali pulping only, compared with the bast tissue of paper mulberry. To make up for the weakness of traditional alkali pulping process, electron beams were directly irradiated into the swelled bast tissue of hemp in NaOH solution and distilled water, and then facilitated the defiberization of hemp bast tissues. The papermaking from hemp bast fibers manufactured by the combination pulping process showed good apparent density, formation structure and air permeability, and had some mechanical properties with lower tensile, tear, burst strength and folding endurance. It is finally concluded that the combination pulping process with electron beam treatment could be suggested a new alternative for non-woody fibers.

• Journal of Korea Foresty Energy
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2001

In order to use bast fibers of mulberry tree at a pulp source of Hanji, the bast fibers were microbiologically treated with several wood rot fungi, and the microscopic characteristics of bast fibers depending on treatment days were evaluated. By wood rot fungi, Phanerochaete chrysosporium and Trametes versicolor, the weight reduction ratio was approximately 50 percent within incubation for 20 days. occurring together with decomposition of useful fibers. However, Hwterobasidion insularis and Stereum hirsutum have completely decomposed the utmost layer of black blue colored bast fibers, and not caused the damage if fibers. Until incubation for 10 days, the cellulose content of vast fibers by Stereum hirsutum was 78.9 percent with lignin content of 7.2 percent, showing an appropriate decomposition for useful fibers. By microscopic observation, the bundled fibers were separated to single fiber within treatement days 30 by Pleurotus ostreatus, and there were no damage on the surface of fiber by treatment days 50.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.10 no.1 s.13
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• pp.1-9
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to examine the characteristics of historical papers and cloths found at Neunggasa temple, Goheunggun, Chonnam Province, Korea, using light microscopy, image analysis and SEM-EDS for fiber morphology and trace metal composition. All papers were made from paper mulberry. Transparent membrane, which was separated from bast fiber, was unique in these fibers. The papers found on the wall of Daewungjun were most highly degraded and those of the books, which were excavated under Cheungwangmun, were relatively well preserved. The cloths found under the statue 'Dong-bangjiguk' were silk, very narrow fiber without any marks. In the analysis of SEM-EDS, high content of silica was detected. Also small content of calcium was taken into consideration. Content of iron and chlorine were discussed from the viewpoint of potentially harmful elements for the conservation of paper. The composition of trace elements could not be used to determine the origins of papers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.42 no.11
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• pp.1744-1752
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• 2013

We investigated the protective effect of UVB inducing photodamage from mulberry extract (ME) and Lithospermum erythrorhizon extract (LE). The contents of total anthocyanin and shikonin as a color compound of ME and LE were 4.92 mg/g and 9.58 mg/g, respectively. The electron donating ability and superoxide radical scavenging activity of ME were 84.32% and 76.34%, respectively. The oxygen radical absorbance capacity of the ME ($545.37{\mu}moles$ TE/g) was higher than LE ($427.18{\mu}moles$ TE/g). MMP-1 production in the HS68 cells were exposed to UVB suppressed by treatment with $200{\mu}g/mL$ of ME (68.6%) and LE (32.7%). ME and LE were applied to a skin aging mouse model, which was induced by the irradiation of UVB to the backs of hairless mice. The value of skin erythema index, wrinkle depth and thickness, epidermis thickness, and collagenous fiber damage in the experiment groups (MEL: ME 3%, MEM: ME 5%, MEH: ME 7%, LEL: LE 3%, LEM: LE 5%, LEH: LE 7%) were remarkably reduced than in the control group (only UVB exposure group), while water capacity increased. The level of total wrinkles depth in the skin was decreased to be 30% of the control group by MEH and LEM. These results suggest that ME and LE are useful cosmetic materials for skin protection against UVB-inducing.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.213-224
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• 2020

This research conducted a component analysis and conservation treatment of "Sangryangmun," a material which had been written in 1965 and was discovered during the repair project for "Jinnamgwan" in Yeosu. The "Sangryangmun" has been stored in a cylindrical metal storage; however, defects, discolorations, hardening, and damages caused by pollutants were found. Based on the XRF analysis, rust in the cylindrical metal storage, which was made of Cu, was stuck on the surface of the "Sangryangmun". Using FT-IR and Pyrolysis-GC/MS analyses, carbonyl and compounds of fatty acids were detected; the organic material on the surface of the "Sangryangmun" was identified to have belonged to oil-based components. Therefore, it was presumed that the bast fibers of a mulberry was used in the paper. To determine the conservation materials, component analysis, condition survey, and preliminary test on adhesives were conducted. Moreover, the missing parts and partial linings were filled using mulberry-fiber paper, methyl cellulose, etc.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1205-1213
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• 2008

Material is a factor for maximizing formative aspect among fashion design factors. Therefore, central axis of modern fashion is performing various trials for escaping from existing cloth and searching for artistic value. Especially, Korean paper is a formative material, which is manufactured through traditional manual work in Korea. The material is used in various fields on the basis of its aesthetic feature. Especially, fashion field performs handcraft activity on the basis of mulberry pulp, which is a prime material of Korean paper. Because the activity can be reinterpreted by world designers, who want to find motive of fashion material in the third world, it is necessary to perform experimental study for developing expressive form on the basis of diversity of Korean paper material. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to perform experimental study by focusing on the development of Korean paper material in order to express formative feature. The study purposes are as follows. The first purpose is to reinterprete the theory through actual work of fiber formation using Korean paper in the current flow where art and design field are fused and compromised. The second purpose is to suggest vision of material development on the basis of formative feature to fashion world focusing its eyesight to Asia and the third countries. The study results are as follows. First, Korean paper has been evaluated as proper material for the fusion of design and art because of its handicraft feature, long-term preservation, heat insulation, absorption, diversity and eastern feature. Second, the study performed various trials for artistic dress material by developing 12 Korean paper works and suggested the development of new material on the basis of formative feature of modem fashion industry.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.52-58
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• 2013

To evaluate the anisotropic characteristics of Korean traditional paper-Hanji, the physical and mechanical characteristics of hand-made hanji, and machine-made hanji were investigated in this research. The densities of copying paper and newsprint paper appeared to be two times higher than the densities of hand-made hanji using Ssangbal sheet forming and hanji made of paper mulberry fiber. The breaking length, and tear index of both Hanji using Owangbal sheet forming, and hand-made Hanji using Ssangbal sheet forming appeared to be different according to the directions in paper. The breaking lengths of Hanji using Owangbal sheet forming showed little differences according to the directions. Breaking length of Hanji using Ssangbal sheet were slightly higher than those of Hanji using Owangbla sheet forming. The breaking lengths of machine-made hanji, copying paper, and newsprint paper were two to four times higher than those of hand-made Hanji. The breaking length showed higher differences according to the direction than the tear index. The tensile strength according to the directions in paper showed significant differences (${\alpha}$=0.05) in all papers used in this research.