• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.87-98
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• 2018

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to review research trends and issues of coastal geomorphology in general of Korea, which is divided into two periods; the former and later periods of 1990s when The Korean Geomorphological Society was established. In this study, coastal geomorphology in general refers to the landforms except tidal flats and coastal terraces. The descriptive statistics of research papers published in 5 major geography journals since 1990s were computed and these papers were classified according to their main subjects. The methodology for coastal landform study was analyzed by sub-fields of landform change and sediment analysis. The study of coastal geomorphology in Korea started from around 1970s and has progressed significantly in terms of the scope and the number of papers published since 1990s. There is few paper published in 1990s on coastal geomorphology in general, but so many research has achieved and came to be the major part of coastal geomorphology study since 2000s. Further methodology is necessary for morphodynamics study in the future.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.221-233
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• 2000

An intertidal topography is continuously changed due to morphodynamics processes. Detection and measurement of topographic change for a tidal flat is important to make an integrated coastal area management plan as well as to carry out sedimentologic study. The objective of this study is to generate intertidal DEM using leveling data and waterlines extracted from optical and microwave remotely sensed data in a relatively short period. Waterline is defined as the border line between exposed tidal flat and water body. The contour of the terrain height in tidal flat is equivalent to the waterline. One can utilize satellite images to generate intertidal DEM over large areas. Extraction of the waterline in a SAR image is a difficult task to perform partly because of the presence of speckle and partly because of similarity between the signal returned from the sea surface and that from the exposed tidal flat surface or land. Waterlines in SAR intensity and coherence map can effectively be extracted with MSP-RoA edge detector. From multiple images obtained over a range of tide elevation, it is possible to build up a set of heighted waterline within intertidal zone, and then a gridded DEM can be interpolated. We have tested the proposed method over the Gomso Bay, and succeeded in generating intertidal DEM with relatively high accuracy.