• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.7
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• pp.1314-1320
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of rosemary colorants on wool fabrics were investigated. Reosemary colorants were characterized by UV and FT-IR analysis. Effect of dyeing condition on dye uptake and effect of mordanting on dye uptake, color change of colorfastness were explored. Rosemary colorants showed high affinity to wool fiber and its isotherm adsorption curve was Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that ionic bonding was involved in the adsorption of rosemary colorants to wool fiber. Rosemary colarants produced mainly yellowish color on wool fabric. The dyed wool fabrics showed generally high colorfastness except fastness to washing and light. Mordanting did not improve any colorfastness except that Sn mordant improved the light fastness. Bacterial reduction rate was increased up to 100% at 5% dye concentration. Therefore, antimicrobial activity of rosemary extract was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.268-274
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on silk fabric were investigated. Pomegranate colorants were characterized by FT-IR analysis. Effects of dyeing condition and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Pomegranate colorants showed high affinity to silk fiber and its isotherm adsorption curve was Langmuir type. Therefore, ionic bond was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants on to silk fiber. Mordants except Fe did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on silk fabric, but the silk mordanted with Fe showed yellow red color. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting treatment, but light colorfastness was increased by Fe mordant.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.1-7
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• 2001

Dyeability of Paeonia suffouticosa on to silk fabric in using natural and artificial mordants has been studied. The dyestuff was extracted with methanol. Silk fabric was most suitable condition in 400%(o.w.f.), $80^{\circ}C$, 50min. The K/S was showed higrer mordanting than unmordanting. And with the mordanting, gave good improvements of the K/S values. Surface color of dyed fabrics was various according to the used mordants: the value of mordanted fabrics was dark, Cu mordanted fabric was to be cleared, Fe mordanted fabric was the greatest color difference. The fastness was significantly improved in natural Cu mordant.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.85-92
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• 2007

This study focused on bean-juice treatment method which have dyeing property to indigo, yellow soil, sappan wood, cochineal and also on the possibility of applying to mordanting. This is different from the active mordanting using chemicals. Natural mordants with development of dyeing are not harmful, also are the medicines for disease. Limestone and ash neutralize the acidic soil. bean-juice protein adhere to cellulose surface and change the physical properties of protein so that coloring of dye is better than before and film non-soluble in water is made. Therefore the color made from bean-juice process lasts after washing. This study try to show one of the ways to improve the current method using the heavy metal which can have bad effects for environment and human being. Bean-juice(raw bean, heated bean) treatment method can be the way to fix the natural dyeing problem of bad dyeing. Bean-juice had been treated under various condition with pre-treatment, post-treatment and raw bean, heated bean. Following results are obtained in this study. In the case of Indigo dyeing, pre-treatment of heated bean shows the biggest difference of color. In the case of yellow soil dyeing, pre-treatment of raw bean-juice shows the biggest gap of color. Pre-treatment of heated bean in sappan wood dyeing case and post-treatment of raw bean show bigger color difference than pre-treatment of raw bean. In cochineal dyeing, raw bean pre-treatment shows the biggest color difference.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.44-52
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• 2002

Recently there has been a growing interest in the use of natural dyes in textile applications. Natural dyes can exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment. In this study, the colorants of Catalpa ovata bark were extracted with water and analyzed by spectrophotometry for their main colorant species. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Catalpa ovata bark and their dyeabilities on the fibers were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing, drycleaning and light, and the effects on bacteriostatic rate and UV-B protection rate were also investigated. The major colorant of the extract of Catalpa ovata bark was shown to be 6-O-trans-caffeoyl-$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with the extract of Catnip ovata bark were colored in yellowish red tint. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from Catalp ovata bark was three repeated dyeing at $95^\circ{C}$ for 1 hr using post mordanting. For dyed silk and wool fabric, the fastness to washing were improved by mordanting, and the fastness to drycleaning were very outstanding. In case of wool fabric dyed with the extract of Catalpa ovata bark, the bacteriostatic rate was increased drastically by 98.0%, and UV-B protection rate was increased by 97.3%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.73-84
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate dyeing properties of silk and wool fabric by Cassia tora extracts according to the conditions such as extraction(temperature time) dyeing(temperature time) condition kinds of mordants temperature of mordanting. The color fastness of laundering irradiation were examined. The results were as follows: The wavelength of maximum absorpthion by extracts appeared at 201, 277, 382nm in UV-Vis spectrum. Absorbance of extracts were increased with temperature and time. The extraction efficiency of Cassia tora was determined as $95^\circ{C}$ of extraction temperature 120 minutes of extraction time. Silk fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 90min at $40^\circ{C}$. Wool fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 60min at $80^\circ{C}$. Surface color of silk and wool fabric dyed with Cassia tora extracts was 3,9Y and 0.4Y but it was changed from 9.3YR to 7,4Y and from 9.4YR to 5Y by mordants. The fabrics of mordanted by metal ion dyed the depth of color. Laundering and irradiation fastness of mordanted fabrics were improved as compared with nonmordanted fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.202-209
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• 2015

Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.103-112
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investgate dyeing, moradnting properties and colorfastness activities of silk, polyamide, acetate treated black soybean extracts. The color of extract by buffer solution (pH=1) red, but the higher pH of extracted black soybean solution the paler of color strength. Black soybean extracts was approved anthocyanin of 3type(Delphinidin3-glucoside, Cyanidin 3-glucoside, Petunidin 3-glucoside) by chemiclal analysis. This anthocynin, in acid condition, is oxinium structure (red color, soluable) but, in alkali condition quinoid structure(dark brown, in soluable). The optimum dyeing condition of black soybean anthocynin was 10min at $30^{\circ}C$, pH -1. Colorfastness to washing and light showed generally low but crocking fastness was excellent.