• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.100-106
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• 2012

This research was carried out to find the mordant effect of Chestnut's inner skin on the cow leather dyed by Turmeric powder. The best proper mordanting conditions were examined by changing mordant method, concentration, temperature, bath ratio, time, and repetition. Also dyeability and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting methods. The optimum mordanting conditions of chestnut's inner skin extract on the cow leather were pre mordant, 80%, $50^{\circ}C$, 50:1, 40minutes, 4 repetition. The K/S values as a mordant were higher in pre mordant than post mordanting condition. Although the ${\Delta}E$ was slightly higher in post mordant than pre mordant, it was too small to find any means. The surface colors of all dyed cow leathers were yellow. Among light, dry cleaning, and abrasion fastnesses, only light fastness was increased one degree, others were same degrees.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.114-124
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• 2014

This research was carried out to find the mordant effects by Tara and Myrobalan as natural tannins on the cow leather dyed with Lac powder. The cow leathers were treated with Tara, Myrobalan, Al, Cu, and Fe mordants by changing treatment orders. It was examined for K/S value, surface color changes, and color difference. The K/S value generally has higher Myrobalan than Tara, and pre-mordant than post-mordanted condition. Cu is the strongest among the three mordants. As a results of the treatment order, the K/S value is higer in pre-tannin-mordant agent than in pre-mordant agent-tannin. In the post mordant, K/S value is higher in mordant agent-tannin than in tannin-mordant agent. The color difference and color factors such as H, V and C were various according to the mordant agents, treatment orders and mordant methods; and surface colors of dyed cow leathers were R and RP. It was difficult to find some significant means of mordant orders.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.283-288
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• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• International journal of advanced smart convergence
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 2019

I reviewed about dyeing fastness and functional properties of the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron mordant dyed cotton with astringent persimmon juice. In the UV-VIS spectrum of astringent persimmon juice, the maximum absorption wavelength of the juice was 272.0 nm, which was a characteristic peak of tannin. In dyeing fastness, light fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton was a little low at grade 2~3. But by the iron mordant treatment, the light fastness was good at grade 4. Dry cleaning fastness to discoloration and contamination was excellent at grade 4~5 for both the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron-mordant dyed cotton. Their rub fastness were grade 3 and grade 2~3 respectively, in the dry condition, and grade 2~3 and grade 3 respectively, in the wet condition. In the perspiration fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton, the discoloration from acidity and alkalinity was grade 3~4 and grade 3, respectively, and contamination from acidity and alkalinity was relatively good at grade 4. Meanwhile, in the perspiration fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton, discoloration from acidity and alkalinity was fair, both recording grade 3~4, and contamination from acidity and alkalinity was very good, both recording grade 4~5. In the ultraviolet protection effect of the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron-mordant dyed cotton, the ultraviolet protection factor was both 50+, both of which showed an excellent ultraviolet blocking effect. And the protection rate of UV-A appeared 98.4% and 99.1%, respectively, and the protection rate of UV-B showed 98.7% and 99.2, respectively. In addition, both exhibited an excellent deodorization rate over 99.9% or more, irrespective of the passage of time. Also, both showed an excellent antimicrobial activity over 99.9% or more against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.88-95
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• 2016

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ${\geq}$non mordant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.648-659
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• 2012

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.429-437
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• 1996

This paper surveys extraction condition-temperature, pH, and changes of adsorbance in accordance with extraction condition of curcuma Longa L. solution. Using extracted curcuma Longa L. Solution, dyeing behaviors with natural fiber, effect of mordants to color fastness and color change were investigated. It was found that the amount of absorption (K/S value) was increased by mordants (Fe, Cr) and mordants treatment affected color change of dyed fabric. Among the mordants, effect of citric acid to color change of dyed fabric was the smallest, and color difference of post- mordant treatment is smaller than that of pee-mordant treatment in making use of citric acid as mordant. And K/S value of post mordant was higher than that of pre mordant. It was found that the pre - and post- mordants treatment little affected color fastness, but affected the amound of adsorption and color change of dyed fabric.