• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.64-75
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• 2007

This is a project presented to obtain Master of Fine Arts degree in Costume Production. The candidate has to present 20 costume illustrations and four full constructed costumes for selected actors. At the presentation, the candidate is given 45 minutes to present followed by questions asked by the committee and audiences and it was presented and exhibited in Brookline Arts Council. The thesis consists of two parts; research and analysis on the play, and the result of the design and production for the $play^{1)}$which consists of four fully built costumes-two in chosen fabrics and the other two in muslin with full closure worn on selected actors for each character. The period for the costume design is the Elizabethan period, the actual period the play Hamlet was written in England. The play Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead is a play written in 1967 from a view of two small characters from Shakespeare's play Hamlet. So the costumes of Hamlet's characters are in full period, but the main two characters' costumes will have some of modern twists.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.769-785
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• 2018

This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.395-413
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• 1994

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.110-123
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.441-460
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• 2002

Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.860-870
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• 2014

This study considers style types and examines aesthetic values by analyzing images expressed through bridesmaid dresses in the movie '27 Dresses'. The research method used was a case study on fashion types from movie costumes. The conclusions of this study are as follows. There are three fashion style types in the movie '27 Dresses' presented by diverse dress type according the bride's dress code, dress style that reflects a country's culture and tradition of how bridesmaids wear traditional costumes particular to each country as well as a dress style that suits the overall wedding's atmosphere and theme. The aesthetic values of the movie '27 Dresses': First, it reflects a complementarity synergy between the bridesmaid and the bride at the wedding. It plays a complementary role in creating synergy through a harmonious presentation at the wedding. Secondly, it represents traditionality. Traditional costumes of different cultures were used as bridesmaid dresses. These costumes play an important role in denoting the bride's nationality and tradition. Third, it represents a sense of amusement using a wedding as concept. The bridesmaid dresses were unique in a way that elicited surprise and unexpected laughter as well as a feeling of pleasure and interest in the audience. The different styles of bridesmaid dresses in movie costumes can help expand more diverse wedding cultures in a modern society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to research and design stage costumes of Whangjinie focusing on inner image of Whangjinie, present stage costumes of new image. Four steps were taken in order to achieve this purpose. The first step was to investigate the old documents and prior research about literature world of Whangjinie. The second step was to analyze stage costumes of Whangjinie which were worn in opera, movie. The third step was to design and make the stage costumes according to new images Whangjinie which were extracted from above two research results. The new images of Whangjinie are as follows 1. Whangjinie as a kisaeng(professional entertainer) She thirsted for new, materialistic love though she failed in love everytime. 2. Whangjinie as a woman. She had a hard time by feeling an irresistible yearning for lover 3. Whangjinie as a poet. She expressed as a poetry her vanity and loneliness of life. Using above three images, this study designed four new stage costumes of Whangjinie and two designs of them were made really. But this study didn't present historic costume of her age but expressed modern mood in color and form.