• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.431-446
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.213-235
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to recognize the meanings of plastic language by analyzing the sign of the Graffiti depicted in western modern costumes. And the scope of this study was focused on analysing the costumes from 1980's when the Graffiti was recognized as one of the plastic arts. Graffiti was an unprofessional and covert desire of self-expression, having a close relation with our lives. It was used in diverse ways with repeating creation, development, and extinction, from expressing liveliness in Old Stone Age through describing symbolic meaning in the modern art. Graffiti means rude, humorous, or political writing and pictures on the walls of buildings. It's different from the delicate letters or pictures to inscript on the tree or rocks. Being introduced as part of Post-modernism in the 1970s, Graffiti was acknowledged as a new artistic action with the culture of hip-hop. In addition the Graffiti, the expression of sign was reflected artist's internal consciousness with boundless sign. The sign is something to transmit message from the nonverbal point of view, the oldest sign was the sign for petition or the expression of something as a primitive form. Sign can be defined as a framework of life inherited as a practice from the primitive age long past. Graffiti was cited as a concrete example of sign, theme of this paper, and general understanding on sign expression was pursued through free work which all artists present with essential and positive ways using signs, their own languages, and life style. The result of this study was summarized as follows: Since the end of the 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have represented symbolic images, such as letter and signs, as purely personal ways of expression through the western costumes. It was found that fashion designers of the Graffiti whose free work style from inherent inner consciousness might provide a basic framework to search for complex signs of modem costumes naturally understood life itself as plastic art, and sublimated human inherent desire and their inner world through their works.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2017

The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권9호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2003

This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.