• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제18권12호
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• pp.513-523
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• 2020

후(後)구조주의 철학자 질 들뢰즈(Gilles Deleuze)는 감각과 신체에 대한 논의를 심층적으로 전개한 바 있다. 본 연구에서는 들뢰즈의 신체 미학의 핵심 사상, 즉, 기관 없는 신체이론을 기초로 현대 패션과 그 신체와의 관계를 재해석한다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 기관 없는 신체는 그 강도에 따라 '충만한 기관 없는 신체'와 '텅 빈 기관 없는 신체' 그리고 '암적인 기관 없는 신체'의 세 가지로 분류할 수 있다. 둘째, 현대 패션은 착용 방식의 변화에 따라 새로운 신체관계를 창조할 수 있고 충만한 기관 없는 신체를 형성할 수 있다. 셋째, 텅 빈 기관 없는 신체 상태에서는 옷을 훼손함으로써 부정적인 의미의 암적인 기관 없는 신체를 만들 수 있다. 현대 패션디자인에 반영된 들뢰즈의 기관 없는 신체론과 강도 분석을 통해, 신체와 의복의 상관관계를 더욱 깊이 이해하고, 이를 통해 패션디자이너들의 창의적 표현의 근간이 되기를 바란다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.30-49
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• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.

• 철학연구
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• 제139권
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• pp.265-313
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• 2016

본 논문은 쇼펜하우어의 저서 "의지와 표상으로서의 세계"를 중심으로 그의 음악론을 전통적인 음악미학의 논의, 특히 한슬릭의 절대음악적 관점을 통해 비판적으로 고찰한다. 그리고 이때 의지형이상학이라는 전체사유 내에서 다른 내용들과 함께 유기적인 관계를 맺고 있기 때문에, 결코 독립적으로 음악미학적인 맥락 내에서 다루어질 수 없는 쇼펜하우어의 음악형이상학의 독특한 성격과 의미를 부각시킨다. 특히 음악은 '의지의 직접적인 모사'이며, 이때 음악을 통해 표현되는 의지, 즉 충동과 격정, 감정 등은 개체적이고 인격적인 감정이 아니라 '보편적 감정'이며, 따라서 음악은 '보편적 언어'라고 하는 쇼펜하우어 음악 형이상학의 내용으로부터 어떠한 미학적 논점들이 발생하는지 보여주고자 한다. 한편으로는 전통적인 예술모방론의 맥락에서, 그리고 다른 한편으로 음악적 추상 및 형식의 문제에 있어 쇼펜하우어의 입장은 당시 일반적으로 퍼져있던 감정미학의 영역으로도, 또 이와 대립되는 입장인 한슬릭의 절대음악과 연결시키려는 방향으로도 해석되고 있기 때문이다. 이러한 문제의식과 관련하여, 쇼펜하우어의 음악론을 둘러싼 미메시스 전반의 문제, 즉 모방과 표현, 언어와 음악, 음악의 추상성에 대해 논의하는 동시에, 이를 감정미학과 절대음악의 논쟁에서 핵심적임 쟁점이 되는 음악의 모사 대상이나 형식, 청각성, 아름다움 등의 문제와 연관하여 그 세부적인 논의를 살펴본다. 이로부터 순수한 음악적 형식을 통한 음악적 아름다움을 말하는 한슬릭과, 두 세계이론에 근거하는 후기낭만주의 철학자로서, 근본적으로는 음악에서도 예술을 통한 형이상학적 구원의 의미와 역할을 강조하게 되는 쇼펜하우어의 차이가 드러날 것이며, 이를 통해 쇼펜하우어 음악형이상학이 지니는 미학사적 위상 및 예술적 자율성에 대한 문제를 제기한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2020

Just as the name 'aesthetics' implies, the meaning of 'aisthesis' or 'sense' in Greek, is perceived as an important element in modern social design. Gilles Deleuze emphasized sensory expression over the rational side of the body, and argued for sensory theory, which is the theory of how painting produces new senses. The purpose of this study was to theoretically examine the sensory theory of Deleuze, which has given new value to the senses, apply it to analyze the body expression method shown in the Iris van Herpen collection, and derive its aesthetic characteristics. In his sensory theory, Deleuze argued that the senses can be expressed by the embodiment of force and rhythm, and one can only create art through the senses. To develop one's philosophical logic through Bacon's painting, we divided it into Hysteria, Cops sans organs, Diagram, Becoming, and Paired figures. Based on these analyses, the visualization of the senses in Iris van Herpen fashion resulted in hysteria, organ-free body, diagrams, and heterogeneity combinations. Analysis of the method of expression revealed rhythmicity, atypicality, scalability, and reproducibility as expression characteristics. Applying Deleuze's sensory theory to access experimental Iris van Herpen's fashion could confirm that there was an open system's accessibility. Deleuze's sensory theory, which has given a new value to the senses, will further help to understand modern fashion design in a wide and diverse way and discover the intrinsic value within it.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.121-130
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• 2013

Nature and technology are very popular themes in the everydayness of modern world. In our industrial age which is based on technology nature becomes an lost origin and basic environment. On the other hand, technology is conceived as future hope and realistic environment. Through 1960s they had been transformed as signs and connoted into furniture design. As signs, they structured environment, organized space, and bred their own aesthetics. In this context, Danish designer Verner Panton presented nature as experiential landscape and Italian designer Joe Colombo expressed technology as amusing machine. What they showed were not real but sign of nature and machine. Nonetheless they were successful to create aesthetic atmosphere and meaningful projects. Also they showed the potentiality that furniture design might include discoursive issues and values. They also extended functional interesting between furniture and body to cultural domain of social viewpoint in behavioral pattern.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2002

The chairs are one of the most important furniture in this modern society, as we know that history of furniture is made of history of the chairs. Among the chairs, the stool, which made by only sit and legs, forms the basis of the chairs. The stool plays an important part in the human body to support and also help to make an agile movement In a short period of time. The stool is the minimum unit of chair, which made of least size and simple structure; therefore it fits to study basic knowledge of furniture making. For that reason, we can see occasionally the schools of furniture design departments have chosen the stool making course in their foundation students' studio classes. However, the professional study on the stool, such as the study on the posture for designing stool, has not been developed yet. This study presents basic Information of design for stool by analyzing various stools formatively.