• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.122-135
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to figure out what the beauty of the modern body means and symbolizes from the aesthetic, sociocultural, and psychological perspectives and to investigate how it was formed in the modern Korean society. The data were obtained from the magazines and newspapers published from 1920 to 1939 and analyzed by qualitative content analysis. The results were as follows: First, the modern body from an aesthetic standpoint was characterized by the beauty of westernization, healthy body shape, sensuality, curvaceousness, activity, balance and harmony, and artificiality. The beauty of the modern body from a sociocultural perspective symbolized modern culture and implied the value evaluated by visual appearance. Therefore, the modern body became an object of consumption and the physical capital that gave women chances for their social success and happy marriages. The beauty of the modern body from a psychological viewpoint expressed individuality as a modern ego. Second, the formation of modern body esthetics was explained within the context of social comparison theory. The ideal body suggested by mass media was internalized as the aesthetic standard women used to create modern bodies and with which they compared their created bodies.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.611-619
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• 2022

This thesis is about body language of Tao Dance Theater by combining Schuster's body aesthetic concept with the aesthetic characteristics of early dancers in modern dance. The body aesthetics of Tao Dance Theater were analyzed from the perspectives of minimalism and abstract aesthetics as they expressed and conducted overall research. Therefore, this study intends to analyze the elements such as the creative intention, content, body aesthetic, and costume stage of Tao Dance Theater's work <10>. Accordingly, it is meaningful in that it understands the aesthetic concept of the body asserted by Lee through the work, and analyzes the current state of development of modern dance art according to the change of the artistic trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.9
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• pp.1308-1319
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• 2002

The purpose of this is to analyze the aesthetics characteristics of our modern sports fashion, and thereby, discuss them in the light of the overall mentality or the 20th century, and thus, present the conditions or sports fashion design meeting modem people's divers aesthetics values and desired. Modern sports fashion sues can be categorized into futurist sports style, erotic sports style and American sheet sports style. And the 20th century mentality characterized by changes of lifestyle, identity and aspiration has influenced the aesthetic features of such sports fashion sues, which can be summed up as follows; first, the futurist sports style applies the functional items and details of active sportswear to design, while heralding a positive and hopeful message of technology and future by using the material of hi-tech functions and senses. This sports style was affected much by shift from social status, attraction and wealth to demonstration of state-of-the-art science, pursuit of functionality in terms of shapes and materials, convenience through See combinations of sportswear items or design elements. Second, the erotic sports style based on minimalism attempted to express the erotic body beauty indirectly by exposing some parts of body or using the material pressed against the body. This sports style was closely related with the changes of sexual identity such as neutral sexualism, bi-sexualism and homo-sexualism. Lastly, the American street sports style was born from black Americarns' sports and dances. This spors style pursues “youth” beyond TPO concept As mass media and commercial sports developed, the young generation copied sports stars' uniforms or fashions to share honor, wealth and youth with them. In sort, the American sheet sports style was affected much by the so-called “heroism”. Such a changed object of aspiration influenced the aesthetic characteristics of American shot sports style directly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.64-76
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• 2015

Gilles Deleuze highly evaluated Baroque as the expression body that implements the fold theory, a philosophical thinking about the nature of beings. This can be seen as a meaning that Baroque implements the essence of the world, or the power constituting that essence. In addition, the beauty of Baroque focuses on 'New Harmony' the sum of partial forms caused by each element, and not Platonic harmony. he evaluated the aesthetic of Baroque costume as 'acquisition of liberation and autonomy', 'derived force from infinite spiritual forces'. This study analyzed the contents of the Aesthetic of Baroque costume based on the reviewed Deleuze's folding theory, Baroque aesthetics, and views of Baroque costume. As a result, it inferred the aesthetic of Baroque costume into four types, which are as follows: open structural openness, overlapping structural dynamics, integrated structural diversity, and relationship structural integrity. This study analyzed the aesthetic of Baroque costume based on Deleuze's philosophical thinking. The analysis showed that its aesthetics, which focused on "New Harmony", created energy of life and a venue for expression of power, as the aesthetics eliminated the prejudice of complexity and excessive decoration. In addition, Baroque costume is not the simple historical costume of the past. Instead, it is one of power and spirit, still existing in modern fashion. Baroque costume's formativeness and Paradigm can be said to provide the creative principle important for modern fashion because the aesthetics implemented in Baroque costume accepts free spirit, new challenge, difference and diversity, and is similar to the spirit pursued by modern art and fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 21C Fashion's expression related to 'Verfremdung' theory, in aesthetic theories established after modern times, and then to examine a new meaning and value. The expressions of 'Verfremdung(estrangement)' in modern fashion, appear the followings: 1) placing distance with traditional sex and rational beauty of body. 2) paradox of inversion, 3) illogical juxtapositions by encounter. 4) dismantlement of material concept etc. After showing practically production technique that breaks traditional exception, that is, a new design method of open concept which drives positive idea about discrepancy of realities. This trial has warning abut art's self-control occurring at the time when aesthetic disinterestedness theory is expanded, and is considered indictment about a inhuman property of modern civilization and culture, and is considered expression of will to show alienation by it.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.549-563
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• 2020

Based on Deleuze's body aesthetics and from the perspective of 'deterritoraliazation', this study makes an in-depth discussion on the modern fashion design modeling by four visual characteristics: hysteria, visualization, body segmentation and becoming animals. First, hysteria embodies the strong visual effect brought by the deformation and exaggeration of clothing. Second, visualization in fashion shows the elimination or ambiguity of faces, representing the weakening of identity and the prominence of clothing and body. Third, body segmentation represents the deconstruction and reorganization of clothing, and a new way of thinking, as well. Fourth, becoming-animals are manifested in the physical mutation caused by the heterogeneous connection between humans and animals, which brings about the possibility of rethinking the body.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.121-131
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• 1995

Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.