• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1463-1471
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• 2009

Silver ions or silver nanoparticles have multi-functional properties. The cotton fabrics for providing multi-functional properties were treated with a nanosilver powder, UV-absorbers, and dimethyloldi-hydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) alone and mixed solution. The physical properties, UV protection, antibacterial, and deodorizing properties of treated cotton fabrics were evaluated. The results were as a follows. The UV protection of cotton fabrics were increased by the application of a nanosilver and Uv-absorbers mixture. The UV protection of treated fabrics were improved by nanosilver/DMDHEU/UV-absorbers mixed solution. The wrinkle recovery properties of fabrics treated with DMDHEU and nanosilver improved. The stiffness of fabrics are decreased by a nanosilver/DMDHEU/UV-absorbers mixed solution. The antibacterial properties of the fabrics treated with nanosilver/DMDHEU/UV-absorbers mixed solution is 99.99%. The functional properties of cotton fabrics are shown to be better with aanosilver/DMDHEU/UV-absorbers mixed than treated with nanosilver alone.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.445-451
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• 2005

Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1079-1089
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• 1998

Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1981-1989
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• 2008

Different people buy the same or similar products for different reasons. Benefit segmentation attempts to understand these differences by grouping together people who assign a similar level of importance to the same attributes. We focused on identifying market segments for knit fabrics by comparing the relative attribute preference for knit fabrics according to segmented clusters, and testing to establish if there were significant differences between the preferences of clusters. Three consumer segments emerged, and there were three clusters with different ideal knit profiles: a preferred wool group, a preferred acrylic group, and a preferred long stitch length group. The preferred wool group and the preferred acrylic group rated the mixture ratio as the main attribute that determined their preference, followed by the stitch length. The preferred long stitch length group considered stitch length as being the most important attribute, followed by the mixture ratio. The difference in the preferences for the mixture ratio and stitch length of knit fabrics was the highest between the three clusters, The preferred wool group preferred a knit fabric that has a greater wool mixture ratio and a short stitch length, and the preferred acrylic group and long stitch length group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Sericultural Science Conference
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• 2000.10a
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• pp.41-41
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• 2000

No Abstract.See Full-text

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1611-1620
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• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.