• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.53-66
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• 2012

This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.757-763
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• 1999

The burn-out technique is used to result in the velvet cloth being patterned in open and solid areas by carbonize the cellulose fiber. It is examined how to burn out the cellulose part of the velvet without damage of the other part. The print paste indalca solution is mixed with sodium hydrogensulfate and lycerine and then screen-printed on the back side of the velvet. The effects of process conditions such as concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature and time pull no. and glycerine contents on the properties of ground farics were investigated. The yellowness index and the breaking load of silk ground fabrics afected by the process conditions especially concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.17-23
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• 1998

To prepare a O/W type nonionic durable softner(ANSA), synthesized 1, 3-dihexadanoyl-2, 7-dioxy-6, 8-di(2-hexadecanoyloxyethyl)-1, 3, 6, 8-tetraazacyclodecane as the main component of softner, was blended with beef tallow, anhydrous lanolin, polyoxyethylene(20) oleyl ether, sorbitan sesquioleate, and polyoxyethylene(7) stearyl ether in various compositions. Emulsion stability of ANSA was good, and the mixed HLB value was 9.8. After the treatment of ANSA to all cotton fabrics, the physical properties such as tear strength, crease recovery, and flexing abrasion resistance were measured, respectively. As a result of the measurement, ANSA was proved to be durable softner with good softness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.415-426
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• 2014

This study investigated the color change, enhancement of dye uptake, washing fastness, and light fastness of cotton and silk when dyed with Juniperus chinensis and Terminalia chebula (combination dyeing) using various methods. The dyeing methods were 1) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract sequentially (J-T), 2) dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract and Juniperus chinensis extract sequentially (T-J), 3) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract simultaneously (J+T), and 4) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract 4 times repeatedly and followed by a dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract in sequence. In terms of increased dyeing uptake, combination dyeing (dyeing 2 times like method 1, 2, 3) had the same impact as the repeated dyeing (method 4). The color of J, T combination dyeing showed wide range of mixed YR series, Y series resulting from Terminalia chebula Retzius, and R series resulting from Juniperus chinensis. In cotton, J-T dyeing method showed superior enhancement of dye uptake, and T-J method in silk. In both of the cases, Y series color from Terminalia chebula Retzius extract was mainly shown (Y series color was superior to R series color after dyeing). Therefore, it is recommended for cotton to implement T-J method and for silk to implement J-T method in order to enhance both dyeing uptake and emphasize the color of R series. The K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was decreased by increasing washing time; however, the K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was increased by increasing UV irradiation time. But after repeated washing and longer UV irradiation, ${\Delta}E$ value of combination dyed fabric became smaller compared to fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis only. Thus, it was found that after J, T combination dyeing, fabric became less prone to fading by washing and UV than after Juniperus chinensis single dyeing was done.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.6
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• pp.96-110
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• 1985

This report is briefly thied to introduce the kinds of clothes for the body of deceased and special features of remains in the era of the middle of Yidynasty found in Changheung IM's tomb, and some remarks related to the conservation treatment for shrouds as well. The contents of this report are summed up as follows:1. Included with the clothes of dead body of IM's clan were 2 pcs. Of woman's jacket, 2 pcs. of underpants, 1pcs. of single layered overcoat twithout cotton, 1pcs.of women's overcoat with a single layered thin cotton inside, women's socks, cushoned mattress, straw shoes and other hemp fabrics etc. By the observation of these remains, it is considered that they dressed the deceased with new cloth taken from the unsuals not prepared specially and stored beforehand for such as occasion as does it nowadays.2. As to the conservation treatment, the materials were comparatively good and so they employed general tank washing method with special neutrality liquid soap(made by Lab, of Household Products, Pacific R & D Center) for cleaning imbrued matrials on the clothes. After cleaning and drying naturally at a shade place, remains put into apaulowania tree box were fumigated by mixed gas (M. B. + E. O.) for prevention of damages from fungi and insects.3. Desirable environment control for scientific conservation of such kinds of cellulose textiles is to be illuminated at below 50Lux, temperature 16-18℃, relative humidity 45-60%($\pm$4%) and removed the dust. For the prevention of the damaging fungi and insects, it is desirable to fumigate by mixed gas (M.B.+E.O.) once a year.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.183-190
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• 2002

This study was aimed at investigating the satisfaction in relation to clothing design and size-fit for nurse uniform in Korea. The subjects were 986 female nurses working in 12 hospitals selected by convenience sampling. The data were collected by questionnaires. Using SPSS package, frequency, percentage, t-test, ANOVA and SNK test were conducted. The results were divided into 2 categories as fellows; 1) Results of the satisfaction with the size-fit and size system of the nurse uniforms : Nurses satisfied at the individual size-fit system than ready-made size system. There was a considerable difference of the satisfaction with the size-fit depending on age and clinical career. And more than half of nurses were needed the concrete and precise size system. 2) Results of the actual design condition and clothing satisfaction : Nurses wore two-piece pants suits more than classical designed one-piece style. The princess-line, convertible collar and yoke design were preferred for nurse uniform with the high satisfaction. 41.6 percent of respondents used the cap obligatory and the white color and a patterned textile were generally used. The used fabrics were only polyester and cotton/polyester mixed spinning.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.708-716
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• 2019

This study explored Jeju natural resources with healing function and tried mixed dyeing of Ecklonia cava and onion shell to improve dyeing. The results showed that silk dyed with a mixture of Ecklonia cava powder and onion shells rather than Jeju's individually dyed silk had better color power to develop fashion products. In addition, all friction lightning bolts, dry cleaning and sweat mining levels were excellent as well as excellent UV protection rates. The three baenaet jeogori worn during a birth anniversary and four rest suits that infants and children can wear comfortably maintained the dyeing and functioning of Ecklonia cava and onion shell mixture that was proven through abnormal experiments. For the three baenaet jeogori and two rest suits, the company has developed a fashion product recognized for high value-added merchandise using a variegation dyeing method made in a handmade style for expressing a person's natural sensibility through dyeing fabrics. Based on the results of the above research, it is expected that various fashion product developments will be possible by dyeing a mixture of functional and colorful extracts of the drug and colorful dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.55-62
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• 2003

Wool fabrics were dyed with the aqueous solution of C. I. Red Acid 114 mixed with methanol dissolving three kinds of barely water soluble ketones, acetophenone, 2-pentanone, and 3-pentanone. The steric hinderance and the orientation of the bigger hydrophobic part of the solvated dye molecules to the fiber slowed down the dying rate, however, loosening the wool molecule, say a little swelling, disaggeregating the dye molecules, and attaining the higher dye concentration on the fiber surface by the added solvents increased the amount of dye on the fabric. The higher concentration or/and the higher dyeing temperature helped loosen fiber molecules and made it easier for the solvated dye molecules to penetrate into the inside of the fiber. Acetophenone, the most influential solvent used, showed that the ability to loosen fiber molecules was the most important of all the three positive solvent actions mentioned above. The considered mechanism provided before reflected the fact that the dye uptake on the fabric dyed with the solvents included, except for 0.034M and 0.051M of acetophenone, was even lower than that without any solvents at $50^\circ{C}$, but all the solvents added to the dye bath increased the dye uptake on the fiber at $70^\circ{C}$.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.41-48
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• 2001

The purification, dissolution and powdering of stained waste silk obtained from weaving and dyeing process were studied for the surface modification of textile fabric and plastic materials. The whiteness of stained waste silk could be improved through degumming and bleaching with sodium hydrosulfite. The water-soluble fibroin solution can be obtained by dissoving the degummed waste silk in a boiling solution of 50% calcium chloride for 60 minutes. The salts and heavy metals contained in fibroin solution were removed by electric dialysis, wool fiber filtration and gel filtration chromatography. The fibroin powder was prepared by using a fine grinder after the alkali treatment for weakening the silk fiber. The fine fibroin powder of particle size around 30 ㎛ was obtained with a ultra fine-mill, while it was finer below 10 ㎛ with a ball-mill. The dissolved or powdered silk was applied to the surface of fabric with addition of the binder (a urethane resin). The moisture content of polyester and nylon fabrics treated with the silk solution was improved due to hygroscopic property of silk. The fine fibroin powder mixed with the binder ws coated on the surface of synthetic film by use of the air pressed sprayer. It was revealed that the hygroscopicity as well as the softness of fibroin powder coated film was much improved. Therefore, it is thought that the fine silk fibroin powder is applicable as an coating agent for the surface modification of plastic and synthetic leather.