• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.162-170
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• 2017

Fastener tapes are widely used as auxiliary materials in textile products, and military textiles products are also applied. However, in Korea, the HL3-WA class of KS K 1309 was applied to military uniforms without consideration of the operating environment. Instead of adopting the standard of initial strength for Korean military uniforms, the US military applied the value after 3 washings, and presented different properties according to the items. Also in Japan, the standard was applied differently according to products in general clothing. The purpose of this study in to examine the quality level of fastener tapes used for military materials. The changes of tensile shear strength and peel strength of military and commercial fastener tape were studied after washing. As a result, the initial strength of the current military fastener tapes was higher than commercial one, but the strength retention rate was rapidly decreased as the number of washing. So it was confirmed that the decrease in strength was relatively lower than commercial one. It is necessary to improve the durability by adjusting the adhesive strength to suit the purpose of the product, and it is necessary to consider the priority of maintaining the durability according to the initial performance and repeated use according to the use environment, respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.288-300
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• 2015

This study was executed to substitute Carbon-arc method, which is a method currently used for testing light-fastness of military textile products, with Xenon arc method. Specimens used in the study were classified according to the fabric material and color of military textile products and were composed of 11 items of 42 kinds with different colors. Light-fatness test was done by comparing the result of Carbon-arc(KS K 0700) and Xenon arc(KS K ISO 105-B02) method. In Xenon arc method, blue wool reference materials of 1~8 was used, and exposure condition preferred in American continent and light exposure method 3 were applied. After testing with both methods, grade of light-fastness, color difference, reflectance and color were examined. Even though there was a slight difference among 42 specimens used in the test, results exceeded the quality standard both in Carbon-arc-lamp and Xenon arc-lamp. Therefore, it was confirmed that applying KS K ISO 105-B02 together in the KS K 0700-regulated Ministry of National Defense standard and purchase order would also fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.261-268
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and wearing comfort of jumper for Korean military tank drivers through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and to provide basic data for developing its improved design. The survey was done for 477 military tank drivers and evaluation was performed using thermal manikin to measure insulation. The overall satisfaction for design of jumper for military tank driver was over 3.5(likert scale). The overall satisfaction for fitness of jumper for military tank driver was also over 3.5. The satisfactions for material was between 2.39 and 3.13 and the satisfaction for pilling property was the lowest, followed by static property and shape stability after laundering. The satisfactions for movement suitability were standing(3.81), sitting(3,38), raising hand(forward: 2.90, sideward: 3.01), respectively. In insulation evaluation of jumper for military tank drivers and outwears(jacket, jumper), the insulation of jumper for military tank drivers was lower than outwear(jumper) and same with outwear(jacket). The insulation in dynamic and still condition(without wind) of jumper for military tank driver was 0.37clo and 0.31clo, respectively. Its decreation rate in dynamic condition comparing to still condition was 59% which was lower than jacket(0.73clo) and jumper(1.15clo).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.776-788
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• 2019

This study developed an ergonomic Korean female military winter jacket and (inner and outer) pattern in in order to increase dimension and operational suitability for military missions. First we developed the 1st development pattern and sample jackets with improved dimensions and operational suitability based on a previous investigation of fitness and motion suitability of Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation result of fitness for the 1st development pattern were over 4.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket, a positive result and the result of motion suitability were over 3.5 in both the inner and outer jacket except for the neck front part by collar height. However, we did not modify the collar height because decreases in warmth and military regulations. We also evaluated appearance by experts that showed good results in both the inner and outer jacket. Finally, we developed a final pattern based on evaluation results and military regulations. Existing military uniform research was conducted mainly on male soldiers. Beginning with this study, we expect to expand research on the development of military uniform patterns suitable for a female soldier body type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.582-589
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and comfort in current Korean military tank driver's clothing through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and. to provide basic data for developing a improved design of Korean military tank driver's clothing. The survey was done for 477 military tank driver and the field evaluation was also done for evaluation. The overall satisfaction for design of military tank driver's clothing(3.25) was higher than that for the easiness in wearing and taking off(2.76). The military tank drivers evaluated that current coverall type of clothing is more suitable than two-piece type of clothing. The overall satisfaction for fitness of clothing was as a whole low(2.82~3.09), Especially, the satisfaction for fitness of from front and back rise length was the lowest one. In the satisfaction for clothing materials, the satisfaction for the breathability of material was the lowest, followed by clothing insulation and air permeability. The satisfaction for movement was low in bending waist and raising forward and aside. The part which surveyors think most dissatisfactory was also front and back rise length. The frequency in use of pocket was the highest in chest pocket, followed by waist and pants pockets. The satisfaction for opening easiness of hips opening part was very low(2.64).

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.195-196
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• 2010

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.96-102
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• 2020

Recently, it was reported that chitosan or APTMS(3-aminopropyltrimethoxysila ne) treatment to cotton using the simple pad-dry-cure method has potential to prepare textile materials for military chemical warfare protective clothing. However, it is not confirmed which method is more efficient. Therefore, this study aims to quantitatively compare detoxification properties of chitosan treated cotton fabric with those of APTMS treated cotton fabric. Detoxification properties were evaluated using the well-known organic phosphorous nerve agent stimulant, diisopropylfluorophosphate(DF P). With the same amount of chitosan and APTMS on the surface of the cotton fabrics, APTMS treated cotton fabric exhibited 10% higher detoxification properties than chitosan treated cotton fabric based on the rate of DFP hydrolysis and half-live of DFP calculated from the DFP decontamination ratios of the treated cotton fabrics through time. Therefore, APTMS treatment can be more efficient method to prepare the textile materials for military protective clothing than chitosan treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.855-866
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• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.