• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.71-76
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• 2003

We evaluated the seam characteristics with finishing, seaming and sealing processes and seam Puckering behavior of the breathable waterproof fabrics with laser scan. There were differences in 99% significant level between the seamed fabric and the sealed fabric. Seam breakage was initiated with the breakage of sewing thread, so the seam strength after seaming was almost uniform. The sewn seam strength and elongation increased with sealing process in all finishing methods. Pucker grade of laminating type was generally much higher than that of the coating type. We confirmed that wave length and amplitude have more important meaning than the number of weave in the breathable waterproof fabrics. The puckering in breathable waterproof fabrics is mainly occurred by inherent and feeding pucker. The former if due to the insertion of sewing thread and the littler is caused by differential feeding when two pieces of fabric are fed into the gap between a press foot and needle plate.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korea Safety Management & Science
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.377-388
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• 2014

There have been a lot of studies about overseas factory location in order to meet various needs of industries according to the international economic developments. However, most of the studies were written about generic theory for general industries or mainly concerned to high capital industries. This study is focusing on the sewing and apparel industries which represent labor intensive and small-medium type of enterprises. For this study, AHP(Analytic Hierarchy Process) methods were applied to make proper analysis after wide range of survey to clarify determinants which provide a guidance for overseas factory location. As a result of the analytical researches done in the thesis the most important which should be taken consideration while determining of overseas factory location for sewing and apparel products industry are as follows - economic factors(0.569), geographic factors(0.171), social and cultural factors(0.157), regulations and institutional factors(0.103). In the last, S company is examined for example to show how this determinants have practically been applied.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.402-403
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• 2003

Garment manufacture represents the final stage of processing a finished fabric. The main task of the garment manufacturer is to produce shell structures out of flat fabrics to match the shape of the human body, and the most acceptable means of joining textile materials for apparel use is by sewing. On the sewing process, the bottom layer is pushed forward by the feed-dog, but the presser foot tends to retard the passage of the top layer. Since the friction between the layers is low, is possible that the components will move out of phase and pucker. (omitted)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.234-238
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• 2000

In this study it was measured seam strength of T/C which has the different processing methods and density. Also it was measured seam strength by the change of angle in the pattern and the kinds of threads. The results of this study are as follows; The seam strength is stronger in order of $90^{\circ}/90^{\circ}$ > $0^{\circ}/0^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/-70^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/70^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/60^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/30^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/45^{\circ}$ by the cutting directions, in order of T/C3>T/C1>T/C4>T/C2 by the samples and in order of 60's/3>40's/2>60's/2>50's/2 by the threads.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.136-149
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• 2007

This study researched the costume manufacture process by having the musical 'Christmas Carol' as an example and specifically presented the costume manufacture process of an actually performance work, thus it aimed to be helpful theoretically and realistically, by allowing theatrical costume manufacturers and majors in theatrical costume to be informed of the systematically practical affair process of the theatrical costume manufacture and by exhibiting the research work of costume composition aiming at reproducing a silhouette in the process such as costume composition and sewing, and the effectively manufacturing methods such as the costume composition application and the sewing method development aiming at the activity of performers. In the empirical research, it analyzed the features of characters and arranged the manufacture points while actually manufacturing the performance costume, and clarified the systematically performance costume manufacture process such as a manufacture meeting${\rightarrow}$costume list preparation$\rightarrow$work-instruction sheet preparation$\rightarrow$pattern manufacture$\rightarrow$sewing$\rightarrow$performance and inspection. Through performing the manufacture of the really performance work, it is hoped that this study contributes to the development of performance art circles, by presenting a step and a method of professionally theatrical costume to the performance manufacturers and the theatrical costume manufacturers at present when the theatrical costume is solidifying its position as a professional sphere, in the performance and an, has a meaning as the initially empirical research, which can exhibit as a guide of realistically and empirically educational contents for theatrical costume aiming to bring up professional staff for theatrical costume, and becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.2 s.216
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• pp.49-59
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• 2006

Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 1997

The aims of this research study is to clear the differences of the learning effects and the cognition of Home Economics by sex in the middle school and to collect the future-oriented educational dates, after implementing the 6th education curriculum. The results of the study are as follows ； 1. Most of students had the cognition that Home Economics is a subject matter of a needful knowledge and skill for the family life, half students a cultural subject matter for the modern life. The former was supported by female students, the latter by male students. 2. Most of students were interested in actual training fields of cooking and hand-sewing, had a strong interest about a field of physical and social-psychological growth. The differences by sex interest about significant in these fields. 3. Most of students had positive responses in the learning effects of Home Economics. The most useful field was cooking and the worst was the structure and method of sewing machine. 4. The shortage and the dissatisfaction in the learning of Home Economics were lacking of the actual training hours, the old-fashioned teaching methods and the shortage of teaching materials etc.