• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.299-307
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• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.54-61
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• 2008

The glitter of lame fabrics containing the metallic yarns may further be altered by $Na_2CO_3$ aqueous solution at an elevated temperature. In this study, the effect of the corrosion treatment on the yarn luster was evaluated using image analysis. The alkaline solution treatment was found to be more effective on the aluminum-based specimens than on the silver-based specimens. It was found that corrosion percentage measurement based on the transmission analysis may provide reasonable quantitative index, even if the measurement relies on an indirect method. Based on the quantitative results, the alkaline treatment condition for the specific specimen would be optimized for a desired glitter modification.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 청송심씨묘 출토 금직물 유물 2점(부금 원삼, 직금 치마)에 대한 비파괴 분석방법을 이용하여 유물 상태, 섬유 재질, 표면 오구(汚垢), 금속사에 대한 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 출토 당시 유물의 상태는 모두 갈변되어 본래의 색상을 확인할 수 없으며, 섬유재질은 SEM과 FT-IR의 Amide I, II, III, IV 피크와 정색 반응 결과들로 누에고치로부터 얻은 견 섬유임을 확인할 수 있었다. 표면 오염물인 흰색 오구와 검정색 오구는 FT-IR, XRF 분석결과 시신의 부패와 미생물 분해로 나타난 지방질, 단백질 등의 가수분해 물질임을 확인할 수 있었다. 금속사의 금박층을 XRF로 분석한 결과 금(Au)으로 확인되었으며, 금속사 배지에 대한 FT-IR, 정색 반응 결과 배지의 접착제 성분은 Amide I, II, III와 3000 cm^-1 전·후의 Amide A, B의 결과로 동물성 교(膠)로 확인되었고, 배지는 정색 반응 결과 국내에서 생산된 닥나무 인피 섬유인 한지로 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2001

The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.

• 한국자원리싸이클링학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국자원리싸이클링학회 2006년도 춘계임시총회 및 제27회 학술발표대회
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• pp.78-85
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• 2006

In textile industries, waste effluent containing zinc is generated during the manufacture of rayon yarn from the wood pulp or cotton linters. Due to the strict environmental regulations and the presence of toxic metallic and other constituents, the discharge of industrial effluents in the sewage or disposal of solid sludge as landfill is restricted. Before recycling of zinc as zinc sulphate solution to the spinning-bath of the rayon manufacturing plant the zinc sulphate solution must be free from calcium, which is deleterious to the process as gypsum precipitates with the increase in concentration and forms scale in the bath. In the present work an attempt has been made to develop a process following solvent extraction technique using thiophosphinic extractants, Cyanex 272 and 302 modified with isodecanol and diluted in kerosene to recover zinc from rayon effluent. Various process parameters viz. extraction of zinc from different concentration of solution, distribution ratio, selective extraction, O/A ratio on extraction and stripping from the loaded organic, complex formation in the organic phase etc. have been studied to see the feasibility of the process. The extractant Cyanex 302 has been found selective for the recovery of 99.99% of zinc from the effluent above equilibrium pH 3.4 maintaining the O/A ratio of 1/30 leaving all the calcium in the raffinate. It selectively extracted zinc in the form of complex $[R_{2}Zn.3RH]_{org}$ and retained all the calcium in the aqueous raffinate. The zinc from the loaded Cyanex 302 can be stripped with 10% sulphuric acid at even O/A ratio of 10 without affecting the stripping efficiency. The stripped solution thus obtained could be recycled in the spinning bath of the rayon plant. The raffinate obtained after the recovery of zinc could be disposed safely without affacting environment.