• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.996-1003
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• 2015

This study aims to examine the effects of the cutting amount at the waistline on the jacket appearance evaluation and movement functionality, and to suggest a proper waistline cutting amount when designing the men's casual jacket for those in their 30's. The researchers prepared 4 kinds of experimental jackets varying the waistline cutting amount: 0.0cm, 0.5cm, 1.0cm, and 1.5cm. The results of the study are as follows: Regarding the front view appearance, the jacket with the 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (6 out of 9). On the side view and the back view, there was no meaningful difference. However, the jacket with 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (4 out of 5). On the other hand, on the movement functionality, there was small statistical difference; the 1.5cm experimental jacket received the highest score in the most areas. This is resulted because if the cutting amount was increased, equally with the V-zone area which gives room for movements. This result showed the difference from the previous research of men in their 20’s,where 0.0cm achieved the highest test score for both appearance and movement functionality. Therefore, this study suggests using the 0.5cm and 1.5cm for the waistline cutting amount; for the jacket appearance 0.5cm is the best while the 1.5cm is better for the movement.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.61-69
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• 2002

The research of the current situation of made-to-measure production by ready-made men's suit companies was done by interviewing and surveying the made-to-measure specialists. It was apparent that most frequently purchased items in Mass Customization were jackets of formal dress. The results of the research on the current situation of Mass Customization by ready-made clothes companies were as follows. The Mass Customization accounted for 3∼10%. The advantages of Mass Customization were more acceptable sizes, designs and details while the initial reasons for it were unusual physical figures and designs. The posture of a customer during measuring turned out to be critical enough to influence fitness after production. The companies in the research were found out to have materials for Mass Customization in storage and the sizes and other data of fixed circle of customers who would want Mass Customization saved in computer in most of the cases.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.51-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ hue ${\times}$ chroma ${\times}$ color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ value ${\times}$ color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.835-845
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.864-873
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• 2013

This study analyzed the correlation between the sources of the complaints and various factors such as gender, garment type, fabric type, textile material and washing methods for products. This survey utilized a total of 2,609 consumer apparel product complaint cases filed with the Korea Consumer Agency between 1997 and 2009. In regards to consumer liability: it was found that more incidents of failures due to carelessness were reported among men's clothes, knitted garments, cotton clothes, polyester clothes, wool blend clothes, pants, shirts, sportswear, and laundry only clothes. In regards to dry cleaner's liability: women's goods, woven clothes, silk clothes, cotton blend clothes, jackets, shirts and hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. In regards to manufacture's liability: women's clothes, woven clothes, wool clothes, silk clothes, wool blend clothes, polyester blend clothes, formal dress clothes, jackets, hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. This study provides consumers with information necessary to take preventive measures and basic information that can be utilized to improve the quality of production and services by understanding the sources of dissatisfaction, type of clothes found with problems, and the main causes of consumer complaints for garment products according to who is liable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1709-1715
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• 2002

신사복 정장은 일상의 관습으로 착용되는 가장 중요한 항목으로서, 사무직, 관리 직, 전문직 등의 정신노동자들에 게 폭넓게 수용되는 매우 중요한 의복항목이 다. 따라서 소비자의 감성에 부합되는 신사복 개발을 위해 신사복 디자인에 대한 감성연구가 필요하다. 이에 본 연구에서는 신사복 상의 디자인 개발을 위해서 소비자의 감성에 적합한 신사복 상의를 적절하게 표현해 줄 수 있는 감성 어휘를 추출하고 그 인자를 분석하였다. 요인분석 결과,7개 의 요인과 67개 의 감성 어휘 가 채택되었다. 선택된 감성어휘는 인자별로 대별하여 7개의 요인으로 묶어서 대표적인 요인명을 붙인 결과, 요인 1은 품위성 요인. 요인 2는 매력성 요인. 요인 3은 실용성 요인, 요인 4는 체형성 요인. 요인 5는 외관성 요인. 요인 6은 남성미 요인. 요인 7은 활동성 요인이라고 하였다.