• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

In this study, a 3D simulation program was used to produce a bodice prototype of a middle-aged male in their 40s and 50s and then analyze the appearance evaluation and airgap, sectional view, color distribution through virtual wearing to compare and analyze the differences between patterns. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for pattern development to companies that manufacture and produce clothing for middle-aged men. As a result of analyzing, J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable body shape pattern for middle-aged men. E pattern was too tight and L pattern and N pattern had too much spaces. However, J patternt was analyzed that correction was necessary in setting center back and center front length. The aging phenomenon in which the back is slightly bent forward and shoulders are also inclined is expected to appear, so it is necessary to adjust the front-to-back length, shoulder angle, and shoulder length. It is considered that after developing the research pattern by modifying J pattern, it is necessary to develop a body shape prototype for middle-aged men through actual clothing experiments on middle-aged men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-230
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• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.429-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's shoulders through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's shoulders. In addition, we introduce new bodice patterns depending on our classification. We have the fo11owing conclusions based on our sample size of 200 men's shoulders: 1. The result of factor analysis indicates that six factors are extracted and they consist of 62.3% of total variance. We then choose three factors as standard items for our classification of the shape of men's shoulders. 2. We divide the shape of shoulders into three categories: bent, slopeness, and thickness. Each category is divided into three subcategories. (a) Bent: If one's shoulders are bent forward or backward, then we call them front or back-bent type. Otherwise, they are called standard-bent type. (b) Slopeness: If one's shoulders have an easy or steep slope, then we call them easy or steep slope type. Or else, they are called standard slope type. (c) Thickness: If one's shoulders are thick or thin, then we call them thick or thin type. Otherwise, we call them standard thick type. 3. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 200 men's shoulders, we introduce five new types of men's shoulders. 76.5% of examined men's shoulders belong to one of these five types: (a) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type: (b) 9.5% of easy slope and standard-bent type; (c) 45.5% of standard slope and standard-bent type; (d) 5.5% of steep slope and standard-bent type; (e) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type. 4. The suitability of new basic bodice patterns based on the types of men's shoulders are demonstrated by the high approval rate of the subjects who participate in testing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 2009

In this study, we tried to verify the effectiveness of 3D scans of clothed participants from 20 to 24 year old men in fit analysis process. Carrying out fit analysis, we used 3D scan data and direct fit evaluation with the basic garments made as semi-fitted bodice pattern for men. The result of fit evaluation through 3D scan data showed the expert rated fitting items more positive than direct fit evaluation. Even though, generally there was a no significant difference in the response between 3D and direct fit analysis. Only there was a significant difference in the response to the specific place such as the center front line, neckline, shoulder seam, and etc. There was a no significant difference between the result of 3D scan and direct fit evaluation in the subjects' group. Also the result of assessment of 3D targeting consumers showed very positive and interested in using 3D scans for fit analysis. The ability to rotate the 3D scans for a variety of views proved to be a very effective process to analyze fit. Moreover, digital data is easily accessed at any locations and any time. Fit analysis using 3D scans could be great tool for not only fit evaluation in research but also better fitting in apparel industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.