• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.101-118
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• 2014

Parkland, which is one of the pioneer brands in men's fashion in Korea, specifically suits, has recently undertaken bold brand repositioning activities to respond to the fast-changing environment and to overcome limitations in its current image positioning. As a result, in a short time period, Parkland achieved remarkable marketing and communication success. This case study explains how Parkland drew successful brand repositioning from the fierce fashion market. This study systematically analyzes the brand repositioning strategy process and implementation strategy used to resolve the conceptual and structural issues of Parkland as a mature brand. To this end, this study assesses Parkland's brand strategy focusing on brand environment and positioning. Accordingly, the study analyzes the target concept and basic direction of the brand repositioning in terms of the repositioning strategy process, and from an integrated marketing perspective, examines the specific implementation program for repositioning. Finally, the study addresses the outcomes of brand repositioning efforts as well as steps to be taken in the future.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.264-274
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• 1999

The thermal resistance of 60 men's suits for summer and winter was measured to determine their thermal characteristics and physical properties, including air permeability, weight, and thickness of the jackets and trousers consisted of the ensembles were measured to predict the thermal resistance of garments and ensembles. In this study, general physical properties of the men' suit ensembles were determined. In general, thickness and weight of winter ensembles were greater than those of summer ensembles. A factor which could distinguish the difference between summer and winter ensembles was the air permeability. The air permeability of summer ensembles was 3~6 times greater than those of winter ensembles. For the thermal characteristics, the thermal resistance of winter ensembles were higher than those of summer ensembles. When the wind was involved, the thermal resistance of both ensembles decreased up to 30%. In addition, the equations were developed to predict the thermal resistance of the garments and ensembles when there was no air velocity and the thermal resistance of the ensembles with air velocity of 1.2 m/sec. Looking at the equations, thickness, weight, and size of the garments were the definite factors that affect the thermal resistance of the samples.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.31-45
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• 2013

Fashion appears as a similar sense of form in a regularly cyclical way. The part highlighted in the female body also becomes that way. The social and cultural problem of fashion is also a matter about the selection of a wearer on how to wear in what environment. Power dressing means an attire that makes you feel dignity, intelligence or power and an attire that is needed to succeed in the business society. It is based on the fact that women started wearing tailored suits that were regarded as the exclusive item of men as the women's social activity was actively progressing. The purpose of the study is to analyze the problem of styles in the social and cultural perspectives. The power dressing was repeatedly appeared in 1930s, 1980s and 2000s. Therefore, this study collected photo data and literature documents to analyze and compare shoulders represented during these three periods, and to examine what social cultural environment was operated for each period and how the designers of each period expressed with clothes. Power dressing is characterized by the use of shoulder pad for the first time for 1930s, the extended shoulder for 1980s and the design the extended shoulder with the more decorative method for 2000s. Power dressing has been utilized as women's gain and improvement of social status, flaunting of economical status and a symbol of individuality and identity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.55-67
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• 2019

This study analyzed the fabric and product size of the burn patient's custom compression garment and measured the pressure applied by the garment to assess whether proper pressure is being delivered for treatment. The test clothes were presented to the market by body size and commissioned with the same design. The subjects selected four people close to the average body size of men in their 20s determined by 7th Size Korea. The experiment was conducted by wearing a compression suit, performing activities and measuring changes in the pressure of the garment according to changes in posture. The fabric used for the compressive clothing was not ruptured even at 216 kPa, the elasticity recovery rate was measured between 80.5 and 94.5%. The product dimensions of the experimental clothing varied by up to 8cm from brand to brand, requiring the standardization of compression clothing. The experiment showed that four types of compression suit varied in pressure, and the pressure range, excluding the gastric arm (17.9mmHg), was between 2.5-14.1mmHg, which failed to meet the level of pressurization for treatment purposes. The clothing pressure in the chest area dropped when performing movements rather than standing still. This was interpreted to be a result of reduced the adhesion of the compression suit during operation. The peak pressure (31.68mmHg) and the lowest pressure (2.2mmHg) was noted in the scapula, indicating that no pressure was being transmitted on the vertebrae. The pressure of the garment on the right shoulder blade was elevated in a supine position. Because much time is spent laying down, it is necessary for the pattern design to accommodate for the increased clothing pressure on the shoulder blades. Standardization of the level of pressurization for burn patient's custom-made pressure suits for each stage of treatment is urgently required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.641-655
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• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.