• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.13
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• pp.21-37
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• 1989

In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.1-15
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to understand the diversity and speciality of Aztec dress which has not been well known, and to overcome ethnocentrism in clothing perceptions. From 15 century to early 16 century, the Aztec empire based on the unique view of the world, most flourished in Mesoamerica. Ritualistic and official side of Aztec life was reflected well on dress. Most Aztec garments consisted of unsewn pieces of cloth, draped on the body as loincloth, mantle and wraparound skirt. Slightly more complicated garments such as women's blouses(huipils) and men's simple jackets were created by sewing together two or more pieces of material. In the sharply stratified world of Aztec, strict sumptuary laws controlled dress. The garments of lower classes were made of maguey or yucca fiber, and only the upper classes were allowed to wear cotton clothing. In addition to material, color, elaborateness and even manner of tieing the mantle were carefully controlled by government edict. As the Aztec empire expanded and became wealthier, the sumptuary laws could not actually dictate what people wore everyday but rather provided a set of rules governing clothing for ceremonial occasions. Aztec's warrior costumes, consisted of headdress, towering back devices, feather garments, were sufficient to suggest the theatrical grandeur of what must have been one of the most magnificiently attired armies ever assembled.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.111-123
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.