• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.990-1001
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceiver's gender, clothing, and hairstyle on the visual evaluation of men's professionalism and preference. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2\times8\times2$ (perceiver's gender $\times$ clothing $\times$ hairstyle) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 16 photographs of a man in his twenties. The upper clothing of the man included tailored collar jackets in beige and dark blue colors, and jumpers and sweaters in beige, dark blue, and red colors. The lower clothing of the men included jean pants. Two types of the hairstyles included short hair and medium length hair. The subjects were 208 men and 223 women in Seoul, Korea. Wearing a beige sweater with jean pants was evaluated high in intellectual image, a red jumper was perceived low in intellectual image, and a beige tailored collar jacket was evaluated low in potent image. Men's short hairstyle was evaluated to be more professional than the medium length hair. Male perceivers liked short hair more than medium length hair, but female perceivers evaluated both hairstyles similarly. In the case of women, the preferences of tailored collared jacket and soutien collared jumper were similar, but jumper was preferred to jacket in the case of men. Male perceivers showed more positive feedback towards jean pants with soutien collared jumper than jeans with tailored collared jacket, which indicated that men showed more conservative attitude towards the outfit than women. The man who was wearing a jumper with short hair was evaluated positively and the man who was wearing a jacket with medium length hair was evaluated negatively when the attires were coordinated with jean pants. In conclusion, medium length hairstyle with a beige jacket and short hairstyle with a red sweater were evaluated as professional image; and the results indicated that clothing and hairstyle interact with each other and influence the evaluation of professionalism.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.104-105
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.300-312
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• 2014

This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.