• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.769-782
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• 2014

This study considers the correlation between model pose and clothes in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos as well as expression characteristics. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The type of model pose in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos can be categorized into five types: maximized type of upper and lower body part, minimized type of upper and lower body part, maximized type of upper body and minimized type of lower body part, minimized type of upper body and maximized type of lower body part, basic type of upper and lower body part. In case of having examined the correlation between body movement and costume, the clothes in the model pose included in the maximization of the body were formed mainstream by silhouette, which was formed by decorative elements or full drapery. In the model poses included in the reduction of the body, the costume tended to expose many parts of the body to provide a simple or structural silhouette form. The costume was expressed in colorful form and poses assumed without body movements. The expression characteristics of the model poses in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos were sensuality, dynamicity, and simplicity. First, sensuality was expressed as feminine sensuality accompanying an erotic mood by naturally emphasizing a woman's breast or leg by reducing the body. Second, dynamicity provided a vividness to the image as if directly living and moving by highlighting the rhythmic aspect of the body. Simplicity aroused the effect of paying attention to clothes or other incidental elements rather than the image expressed by the body of a model by excluding body movement.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2010

Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제21권9호
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• pp.310-320
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• 2020

방탄소년단(BTS)은 전 세계 주류 음악 시장에서 한국의 대중음악을 선도하는 그룹으로 자리매김하고 있으며, BTS가 선보이는 다채로운 패션 스타일은 해외 매체나 대중들의 쇼셜 네트워크에 집중 조명될 정도로 큰 관심을 받고 있다. 본 연구는 BTS의 패션 스타일의 분석을 토대로 그들의 패션 경향을 파악하는데 목적이 있다. 연구방법 및 범위는 BTS 및 BTS의 패션이 미치는 영향력에 관련된 이론적 연구와 함께 최근 5년간 방탄소년단의 이미지 자료를 토대로 한 내용 분석 연구를 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 직선적인 실루엣이 강조된 슈트, 무채색의 활용, 간소화된 장식을 통하여 클래식하면서도 모던한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 둥근 어깨선이 강조된 봄버 재킷, 톤 다운된 스키니 진, 후드 티셔츠, 레터링 패턴, 비비드한 색상을 매치하여 자유분방하고 편안한 감성의 캐주얼 스타일을 선호하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 슬리브리스의 베스킷볼 셔츠, 라운드 네크라인의 베이스볼 셔츠와 반바지, 트레이닝팬츠, 레터링 패턴이 강조된 오버핏 맨투맨을 활용하여 역동적이고 활동적인 스포티한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.175-191
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• 2012

It is said that the mainstream of the oriental culture is Confucian culture, but not be the unique culture of Korea. The religious object in Taoist ideology of immortality reflecting the awareness of cultural community and Korean identity was three spirits. Three spirits are one spirit in terms of main subject. Three spirits were named because they rule the heaven, the earth and human beings each in the reality. The custom performing the religious service to the heaven and the earth is not based on the Taoist ideology of immortality but only the superstition which we can't understand. However, we can clearly understand the reason why the ideology has been transmitted up to now in our awareness and culture when we understand the basis of that ideology. The theory on the origin based on the birthplace of Taoist ideology would be based on the shamanism of Eastern barbarianism and their cultural features. Accordingly, this paper aimed to identify the formative features of phoenix pattern and background of the formation of phoenix pattern based on the unique culture of Korea. Furthermore, the traditional craft works of Korea with the phoenix pattern which secured its position as the representative pattern of Korea will be investigated.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.73-83
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• 2006

This study aims to focus on clothing design's practical uses of the superior esthetic elements that can be found among the East's representations, in particular the characteristic Korean elements found in the latter part of the Chosun Era's women's Gauche and decorative personal ornamentation's moulded features. This has been the foundation for the creation of all eight pieces, and the conclusion is as follows: First of all, the Chosun Dynasty women's Gauche and ornamentation are in close relation to the general flow of society at the time. Gauche and personal ornamentation was not just a matter of beauty consciousness, but is permeated with then-mainstream society's culture, the results of an attempt to display a Korean appearance. Secondly, the desirability of the Chosun women's hair was expressed through Gauche, and through the exceptional brilliance of a diversity of embroidered color tones, braided as though creating Dare. Using this technique in clothing, a new image was created. Thirdly, the outstanding beauty of personal ornamentation's mouldings was used while creating new clothing compositions. The beauty felt through the Chosun women's personal ornamentation can also be felt through today's clothing. More than merely practical, this beauty also brings one closer to Korea and Korean past.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권12호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2006

A movie's fashion style delivers the overall atmosphere of the scene including the characters's class, personality, spiritual world and inner thinking and even their conflicts in the story. The movie 'American Psycho' directed by Mary Harron and based on from Bret Easton Ellis's original novel ridicules the American yuppie culture of the 1980's through the behavior of the hero Patrick Bateman. The life style of the yuppie sees itself as the high-class embodiment of a particular culture, but the various subcultures such as Glam and Punk show that it is merely a two-faced culture suffering from hypocrisy and mammonism. An analysis of the costumes found in the movie indicated an exhibition of the 1980's Haute Couture fashion, which was mainly occupied by the mainstream social class and of the social phenomenon of post-modernism. The anti-fashion presented in the movie as the resistance culture formed by the subculture was in extreme contrast with the expression of self-actualization.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.