• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.157-173
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• 2013

In the pleats of the statue in the ancient Greece, a vivid expression is included about clothing, which has organic relationship with a human body. This study examined about diverse expressions of pleats that were shown in the Greek sculpture, based on understanding about a pleat meaning and function, and clothes. As a result, the clothes, which were shown in the statue in the ancient Greece, were reflecting spirit and fashion of the times. The pleats, which were expressed in clothing, are closely related to a human body and simultaneously are those that a sculptor showed own creative intention in a work by reflecting a historical demand, thereby having become an important element of dominating the image in the whole clothing. Also, a change and development in expression were being progressed according to a flow of each period. Amidst what expressiveness based on lines are excellent, the unity and the dynamic formative characteristic were forming the mainstream. The design-based elements related to these characteristics are judged to possibly give many inspirations to designers in the modern fashion design sphere, which is mixed diverse styles, and are considered to be able to be helpful even for establishing newer and more creative design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.15-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new ecology fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the difference of characteristics between ecology fashion established before the early 1990's and new ecology fashion advented in the late 1990's and create the design inspired by the image of new ecology fashion. As a method of accomplishing this research, the articles and magazines related to the fashion were examained. Also internet was surfied for studying social and cultural background of new ecology and examining the trend of new ecology expressed at design at first. Through examining the fashion mode in the late 1990's related to the trend of new ecology, the characteristics of new ecology fashion have been devided by the fabric, color and detail and drown out three images of new ecology fashion. The cultural background of new ecology is advent of fusion, techno and zen culture in the late 1990's. The characteristics of new ecology fashion are as follows. As regards of the fabrics, It's been used naturalized synthetic fabrics such as lycra and tencel produced by the advanced technology as well as luxurious natural fabrics. As the aspect of colors, on the basis of neutral colors shown to the previous ecology fashion, the wide range of colors including the vivid colors has been presented sophisticatedly. The most evident characteristic of new ecology fashion is the increase of details, along with keeping the minimal style. According to this trend of new ecology fashion, three charicteristic images can be extracted ; the techno ecology, the modern ecology and the romantic ecology. As the megatrend sustained during the late 1990's, the trend of new ecology was the mainstream not only of the fashion but also of the human life style, and has the potential continued in the 2000's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.88-101
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• 2020

The music videos of BTS go beyond the limit of media promoting music and shows their meaning in various ways and complete the visual message of music through fashion style. BTS' fashion style in the music videos shows a change in symbolic representation of the genre of each album and song, of which gender images are changing aligned with the music messages of BTS. The purpose of this study was to derive gender images of fashion style in BTS music videos and to interpret their meaning based on Judith Butler's theory that performativity creates discourse through iterative process. It is conducted as a research method, an analytical study was conducted in parallel with literature studies and empirical case analysis. The scope of the study was limited to 301 costumes that appeared in 21 official music videos from debut single album '2Cool 4 Skool' released in 2013 to the mini album 'Map of the Soul: Persona' released in 2019. As a result of the analysis, the controversial fashion style, challenging fashion style, boyish fashion style, hybrid fashion style, the playful fashion style were revealed. The conclusion of studying the gender image of BTS, interpreted by this analysis using Judith Butler's theory, is as follows. The gender image of BTS is the traditional image that identifies with the dominant gender discourse, the resistive gender image that intentionally distances mainstream culture, the eclectic image parodying the gender of the opposing term, and the deconstructive image that transcends the dominant gender discourse.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.159-170
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• 2005

In this paper we examine the patterns of the subcultural fashion styles in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. First, we define the concept of the subcultural fashion styles and in turn, examine the subcultural fashion styles from 1950s to 1990s while focusing on the way each generation resisted against the mainstream through its styles. The subcultural fashion styles examined and analyzed in this study are mainly British and American styles. some of European and Western Indian styles are also included. In this paper, a subcultural fashion style is understood as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity. And as a result, it is realized in a form of a fashion with its repressed subconsciousness, with resistance to the alienation from the society, and with deviation from the normative ethics and the morality of a society. In conclusion, we classify the subcultural fashion styles into two patterns based on their form of resistance which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day: the dressing of the escape from time and the dressing of the escape from space. The first pattern is characterized by nostalgia or futurism, and includes psychedelic, rastafarian, raver, techno style. The second Pattern includes surfer, folky, hippy, new age traveller, cyberpunk style. Especially, an emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2004

Pop art, an artistic trend which was actively popular centering around popularization of America in the 1960's, appears as punk style in the 1970's and as one of diversified style in the 1980's, and have co-existed in the third culture and pluralistic combination since the 1990's. The image of pop art includes complexity, familiarity and popularity as well as extension of media, and so directly influences the fashion in the end of the 20th century. Especially, sportslook show up by the virtue of rising lower cultural area such as street fashion becoming influential and change in life style, which was recreated as clothes by developing characteristics of design including style, details and colors showed in active sports wear. This study is aimed to ana analyze the image of pop art showed again in the modern fashion in the end of the 20th century and graffiti-art which was well known to the general public after the 1980's. Through this analysis, I will study characteristics of pop art showed in sportslook which is the mainstream in modern fashion and graffiti of Keith Haring. Consequently, I suggested a functional, esthetic and future-oriented sports look design which comprises the image of the graffiti-art of Keith Haring by using Design CAD(photoshop & primavision) enabling to attempt variously and to derive quickly the output of design and textile.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to investigate and analysis the style of Audrey Hepburn(1929-1993), the most important style icon in the 1950s and '60s from the point of the style of dress in her films - Roman Holiday (1953), Sabrina (1954), Funny Face (1957) and Breakfast at Tiffany's (1966) and fashion activities, furthermore, to know the influence on the contemporary fashion. After 1960s, her style has been recreated by so many designers. In the 1980s, times influenced by post-modernism, there was also the effort to reconstruct the style in the 1950s again. At that time, some Hepburn styles-a reflective of the flamboyant and exaggerating trend in her ages-were appeared by a few designers in the 1980s. Over the 1990s' retro culture, there were a lot of efforts to reemerge the styles in the 1950 and '60s, they led to full-scale reconstruction of Hepburn style - a feeling of the elegance and intelligence harmonizing with the minimal and formal style. By the retro culture adding with the mainstream fashion trend of simpleness and comfort in the year 2000, Hepburn's casual style has been reconstructed to meet the modem need in the 21s1 century. Through these considerations, we could notice that Hepburn style has been recreating from various fashion fields harmonizing with the popular trend of the age.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.147-160
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• 2013

Korean fashion designs became important items in Korea in the middle of the 1980s, and it has advanced into the world market in the early part of the 1990s. To achieve success in global fashion world, it is necessary to analyze Korean fashion design thoroughly and prepare strategies to develop designs with mainstream acceptance in the global fashion world. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and Korean beauties of Korean fashion designs. Fashion photos of Korean fashion designs from 2006 S/S to 2012 F/W were analyzed. 357 designs from 608 designs of 4 representative Korean designers were examined and design characteristics, expression styles were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. H Line, slim, fitted silhouette and loose look were applied. 2. 5 major traditional colors, red, blue, yellow, white and black colors were used. Brown color, neutral color, golden color and beige color of the textile material's original color were used. Traditional textile materials like ramie fabric, satin and cotton, wool and metallic fabric were used. 3. Patterns of flower, traditional pattern and Korean letters were applied. Embroidery, patchwork and mother-of-pearl were decorated. 4. The three types of beauty were natural beauty, moderate beauty and decorative beauty. The types that were analyzed were realistic expression type, moderate expression type, image expression type and mixed expression type. To be accepted in global fashion world, Korean traditional design elements should be modified, broken down and reorganized so that Korean fashion design can be recreated.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.719-740
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• 2017

Sociocultural and demographic shifts have resulted in a changing perception of older age. Older women, historically subjected to age-ordering rules of dress, have increasingly refused to be marginalized fashion consumers and have been striving to construct a more positive age identity. Although studies have examined consumers' negotiation of marginalized identities, age identity has not received much attention as a type of marginalized identity. This study argues that Pinterest acts as a platform for identity work by allowing older women to creatively reconstruct their sense of self by saving images and organizing them into thematic boards. Drawing on symbolic interactionism theory and notions of digital self-presentation, this paper seeks to explore the discursive practices that older women employ on Pinterest to resist ageist fashion discourses. The sample consisted of 15 fashion-oriented Pinterest profiles of older women. Netnographic inquiry was employed first to examine what images were saved and what thematic boards were created. Three analytical frameworks for visual data analysis were integrated to further scrutinize the visual texts within the thematic boards. The analyses revealed three main themes-rejecting age, accepting age, and consuming age. The themes that emerged formed the basis for an age identity reconstruction process whereby women attempted to bridge the existing gap between older age and mainstream fashion discourse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1429-1441
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• 2010

This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.