• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.

• 미술자료
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• 제96권
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• pp.155-180
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• 2019

용주사 <삼세불회도>는 유교적 이념과 불교적 이념, 궁중화원 양식과 산문화승 양식, 고유한 전통화법과 외래적 서양화법 같은 다양한 이원적 요소들이 창조적으로 융합되어 이룩된 기념비적 걸작으로서 조선 후기의 회화 발달과 혁신을 상징적으로 보여주는 대표적 작품의 하나이다. 그러나 화기(畫記)가 없기 때문에 현존 <삼세불회도>의 제작시기와 작가를 비정하고 양식 특징을 분석하는 문제를 놓고 연구자마다 견해 차이가 심해 지난 50여 년 간 논쟁이 끊이지 않음으로써 회화사적 의미와 가치가 제대로 인식되지 못하고 있는 실정이다. 현존 <삼세불회도>의 제작시기를 추정하는 문제는 모든 논의의 기본적 출발점이 되기 때문에 특히 중요한 문제이다. 그러나 일반적인 불화와 달리 화기(畫記)가 없고, 작가에 대한 기록이 문헌마다 다르며, 화승들의 전통적인 불화 양식과 화원들의 혁신적인 서양화법이 혼재되어 있어 작가와 양식을 일치시켜 이해하는 문제가 쉽지 않기 때문에 제작시기를 추정하는 문제는 특히 논란이 많은 쟁점 중의 하나이다. 그런데 현존 <삼세불회도>는 일반적인 불화와 달리 수미단 중앙에 왕실(王室) 존위(尊位)의 축원문(祝願文)을 써놓아 주목되며, 애초에 썼던 "주상전하(主上殿下), 왕비전하(王妃殿下), 세자전하(世子邸下)"의 삼전(三殿) 축원문을 지우고 '자궁저하(慈宮邸下)'를 '왕비전하(王妃殿下)' 앞에 추가해서 고쳐 써넣어 더욱 주목된다. 따라서 이 축원문은 현존 삼세불회도의 제작시기를 추정할 수 있는 가장 중요한 객관적 단서의 하나이다. 그리하여 최근에 새롭게 제시된 19세기 후반 제작설은 1790년의 용주사 창건 당시에는 순조(純祖)가 '원자(元子)' 신분이었고 1800년 1월 1일에야 '세자(世子)'로 책봉되었기 때문에 '세자(世子)'라는 존호가 쓰여있는 현존 <삼세불회도>의 축원문은 세자 책봉 이후에 쓰여진 것으로 보아야 하며, 형식과 도상이 19세기 후반기 화승들이 그린 청룡사나 봉은사의 <삼세불회도>와 유사하고 서양화법은 후대에 개채된 것일 가능성이 많기 때문에 현존 <삼세불회도>는 19세기 후반기의 화승에 의해 그려진 것으로 보아야 한다고 하였다. 그러나 19세기 후반 불화(佛畫) 화기(畫記)의 축원문을 광범위하게 조사해보면, 불화 제작 시점에 왕실에 실존한 인물의 신분(身分)과 생년(生年), 성씨(姓氏)까지 구체적으로 쓰는 것이 통례였기 때문에 19세기 후반에는 용주사 <삼세불회도>의 축원문처럼 수십 년 전에 승하한 사람들을 생전의 존호(尊號)로 고쳐 쓸 수 없다는 것을 알 수 있다. 이에 반해 1790년 전후에는 원자(元子)나 세자(世子)의 유무(有無)와 무관하게 의례적으로 "주상전하(主上殿下), 왕비전하(王妃殿下), 세자저하(世子邸下)"의 삼전(三殿) 축원문을 쓰는 것이 관례였기 때문에 현존 <삼세불회도>의 축원문에 '세자저하(世子邸下)'의 존호가 쓰여있는 것은 오히려 당연한 것임을 알 수 있다. 그리고 일반적인 왕실 위계와 달리 '자궁저하(慈宮邸下)'가 '왕비전하(王妃殿下)'보다 앞에 쓰여있는데, 이는 사도세자(思悼世子)의 비극으로 인한 정조와 혜경궁(자궁(慈宮)), 왕비 세 사람의 특수한 관계로 인해 정조가 혜경궁의 왕실 위상을 왕비 앞에 오도록 하여 정조대에만 사용된 특별한 왕실 전례였기 때문에 현존하는 삼세불회도의 축원문은 정조대에 개서(改書)된 것임을 알 수 있다. 또한 애초에는 당시의 일반적인 불화 축원문처럼 의례적인 삼전(三殿) 축원문을 썼다가 이를 지우고 다시 '자궁저하(慈宮邸下)'라는 특별한 존호를 넣어 개서(改書)하는 매우 특별한 일이 일어났는데, 이는 현륭원(顯隆園)의 재궁(齋宮현륭인 용주사의 가장 중요한 주인공이 사도세자의 아들인 정조와 부인인 혜경궁(惠慶宮)(자궁(慈宮))임에도 불구하고 축원문에 의뢰적인 삼전(三殿)만 쓰여있고 혜경궁이 빠져있는 것을 보고 정조가 지시하여 개서(改書)했던 것이라고 생각된다. 그리고 이 개서(改書)는 정조가 현륭원과 용주사가 준공된 뒤 처음으로 현륭원에 원행(園幸)하여 원소(園所)를 두루 돌아보고 돌아오는 길에 잠시 용주사에 들러 <삼세불회도>를 처음이자 마지막으로 친견했던 1791년 1월 17일에 정조가 지시하여 이루어진 것이라고 믿어진다. 따라서 이와 같이 특수한 내용과 형태로 이루어진 축원문은 현존 <삼세불회도>가 1790년의 창건 당시에 그려진 원본 진작임을 말해주는 가장 확실한 객관적 증거라고 할 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.71-78
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• 1985

This research is designed to systemize the protection theory as well as to supplement the missing theory by organizing various studies on the protective functions of celothes by domestic and foreign scholers of clothing. Human environments is classified two standpoints : (1) Physical environments, and (2) man built psychological environments including socio-physical environments, socio-biological environments, behavioral environments, socio-psychological environments and institution environments. Clothes acting as a physical protection might be of (1) extreme air temperature: Parka; (2) high relative humidity: raincoat; (3) air movement: windbreaker; (4) radiation: space suit; (5) atmospheric pressure: deep sea diver suit; (6) mechanical agent: bullet proof vest; (7) physical agent: (8) chemical agent: (9) biological agent: surgeon's gown, cap, and mask. Also dresses act to support the body comfort, health and the well-being; corset for bad back patient, wrist band for people with weak wrist, bottom half of pressure suit for people with low blood pressure. Clothes acting as a psychological protection might be of (1) influence of magic and of spirits: (2) moral danger; (3) the general unfriendliness of the world as a whole; a reassurance against the lack of love. Clothes should provide the maximum of satisfaction in accordance with the full recognition of reality. The reality should aim at the formulation of general laws concerning the most pleasing forms, colors, and styles to suit. The complex physiological anatomical and psychological aspects of individual personalities.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.381-386
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• 2006

This research is to find out what type of young women's body and how young women perceived their body. What's the most favorable style of young women and how the degree of body satisfaction affect to choose their dresses. This was find out how 123 young women with age 20 to 22, live in Seoul perceive their body and how their body perception or body satisfaction affect when they choose the clothing, and also what clothing style they prefer the most. And also how their body size was classified up to KS drop method. All respondents are classified into 3 groups of somatotypes. N. H and A types are. N. H somatotype are bigger than A somatotype. Their body perception was 3.65. They are satisfied feel comfort. They love very body conscious styles, tightly fitted style. Actually when they choose the right style, the somatotype was very important considerable variable. When the degree of body perception or body satisfaction is high, they are positive and easy to accept the current fashion.

• 대한간호학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.1047-1059
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• 1998

Senile Dementia is one of the dispositional mental disorder which has been known to the world since Hippocratic age. It has become a wide-spread social problem all over the world because of chronic disease processes and the demands of dependent care for several years as well as improbability of treatment of it at the causal level. Essentially, life styles of the older generation differ from those of the younger generation. While the fomer is used to the patriarchal system and the spirit of filial piet and respect, the latter is pragmatized and individualized under the effects of the Western material civilization. These differences between the two generations cause conflict between family members. In particular, the pain and conflict of care-givers who take care of a totally dependent dementia patient not only is inciting to the collapse of the family union, but is expanding into a serious social problem. According to this practical difficulty, this study has tried to compare dementia care-givers' experiences inter-culturally and to help set up more proper nursing interventions, describing and explaining them through ethnographies by participant observation and in-depth interviews that enable seeing them in a more close, honest and certain way. It also tries to provide a theoetical model of nusing care for dementia patients which is proper to Korean culture. This study is composed of 12 participants (4 males, 8 females) whose ages range from 37-71 years. The relations of patients are 5 spouses(3 husbands, 2 wives), 4 daughters-in-law, 2 daughters, and 1 son-in-law. The following are the care-givers' meaning of experiences that results of the study shows. The first is "psychological conflict". It contains the minds of getting angry, reproaching, being driven to dispair, blaming oneself, giving up lives, and being afraid, hopeless, and resigned. The second is "physical, social and psychological pressure" . At this stage, care-givers are shown to be under stress of both body and soul for the lack of freedom and tiredness. They also feel constraint because they hardly cope with the care and live through others' eyes. The third is "isolation". It makes the relationship of patient care-giver to be estranged, without understanding each other. They, also, experience indifference such as being upset and left alone. The forth is "acceptance" They gradually have compassion, bear up and then adapt themselves to the circumstances they are in. The fifth is "love". Now they learn to reward the other with love. It is also shown that this stage contains the process of winning others' recognition. The final is "hope". In this stage they really want situations to go smoothly and hope everything will be O.K. These consequences enable us to summarize the principles of cue experience such as, in the early stage, negative response such as physical·psychological confusion, pain and conflict are primary. Then the stage of acceptance emerges. It is an initial positive response phase when care-givers may admit their situations. As time passes by a positive response stage emerges. At last they have love and hope. Three stages we noted above : however, there are never consistent situations. Rather it gradually comes into the stage of acceptance, repeating continuous conflict, pressure and isolation. If any interest and understanding of families or the support of surrounding society lack, it will again be converted to negative responses sooner or later. Otherwise, positive responses like hope and love can be encouraged if the family and the surroundings give active aids and understanding. After all, the principles of dementia care experiences neither stay at any stage, nor develop from negative stages to positive stages steadily. They are cycling systems in which negative responses and positive responses are constantly being converted. I would like to suggest the following based on the above conclusions : First, the systematic and planned education of dementia should be performed in order to enhance public relations. Second, a special medical treatment center which deals with dementia, under government's charge, should be managed. Third, the various studies approaching dementia care experiences result in the development of more reasonable and useful nursing guidelines.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.