• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 연구논문집
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• 통권28호
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• pp.89-100
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• 1998

This paper deals with the design and analysis of a beating cam. The beating device of a high speed rapier loom, weaving fabric by completion of warp-weft patterns, is driven by double cam type on the same axis. As the double cam, coupled with two cams, performs the mutual conjugate motion, the double cam must be very preciously designed for smooth. For the shape design of a double cam, an instant velocity center method is proposed. This method can determine the cam profile from the contact conditions of the cam and roller follower and the velocity relationships at the instant velocity center. And the practical applicability was verified by developing “DISKCAM of a CAD program. As the results in this paper, the shapes of two cams, which are in the conjugate motion, are designed by instant velocity center method. We applied 8-order polynominals for the beating as displace¬ment curves for shape determination of double cams. The data of displacement, velocity, and acceleration of beating cam can be used adjust in accurate operation and to develope an advanced beating device.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.16-27
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• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.673-679
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• 2005

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of the coefficient of friction(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by Omega$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Vamatex-P1001ES$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment. Fabric thickness was also measured and discussed according to the fabric positions such as center and each of fabrics with two looms weaving tensons.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국전산유체공학회 1998년도 춘계 학술대회논문집
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• pp.168-173
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• 1998

A numerical analysis of axisymetric backward facing step main nozzle flow in air jet loom has been accomplished. To obtain basic design data for an optimum main nozzle for an air-jet loom and to predict the transonic/supersonic flow, a characteristic based upwind flux difference splitting compressible Navier-Stokes method has been used. The wall static pressure of the main nozzle and the flow velocity changes in the nozzle tube were analyzed by changing air tank pressures and acceleration tube lengths. The flow inside the nozzle experiences double choking one at the needle tip and the other at the acceleration tube exit at tank pressures over $4kg_f/cm^2$. The tank pressure $P_t$ leading to the critical condition depends on the acceleration tube length; i.e, $P_t$ is higher for longer acceleration tubes. The $P_t$ value required to bring the acceleration tube exit to the critical condition is nearly constant regardless of acceleration tube length. The round needle tip shape might lead to less total pressure loss when compared with step shape.

• 감성과학
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.117-142
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• 2020

본 연구는 실크로드의 역사를 다시 조명하여 실크로드의 주역이었던 고조선의 아름다운 실크의 감성을 찾아보고 잘 알려지지 않은 우리의 역사를 알아보고자 한다. 연구 방법은 고서, 서적, 논문, 유적지 발굴 유물들을 분석하는 다양한 접근을 시도하였으며, 유물에 대한 자료는 다양한 서적과 논문 그리고 인터넷을 통해 관련 유물사진들을 수집한 2차적 자료를 분석하였다. 연구문제는 다음과 같다. 첫 번째, 고대 실크로드와 고대 동양에서 발견된 고조선의 경금의 실크 생산 환경을 조사한다. 두 번째, 고조선의 경금의 고도의 제작기술에 대해 조사한다. 본 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. BC 4500년 홍산문화의 동이족으로부터 발견된 옥으로 만든 누에를 통해 고조선의 실크 생산 시기를 추론할 수 있다. 신장자치구 누란, 아스타나, 니야 등에서 경금이 많이 출토되었으며 가장 오래된 경금은 기원전 11세기경으로 서 발해만 고조선의 수도 중 하나였던 조양에서 발굴된 것이다. 서양의 브로케이드 및 다마스크의 기원으로 보이는 경금은 고조선의 수평 사각직기인 제화루기로 고도의 제직기술의 발전된 직기를 통해서 생산되었다. 이와 같은 결과를 통해 고대 실크로드의 특징은 기원전 5-6세기경 발해만 유역의 고조선에서 생산한 경금 견직물이라고 추측할 수 있었다. 한나라의 사직기나 서아시아의 수직직기로 경금 제직이 불가능하며 고조선의 제화루직기과 함께 고도의 제직기술을 통해서만 경금이 탄생될 수 있었다. 이와 같은 연구결과를 토대로 고대의 실크에 관한 역사 연구를 이어나가기 위해 중요한 초석이 될 것이며, 앞으로 고대 실크에 관한 후속 연구에 필요한 기초 자료로 제공되기 바란다.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1999년도 가을 한국섬유공학회 학술발표회 논문집(Proceedings of the Korean Textile Conference)
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• pp.187-190
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• 1999

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2001년도 학술발표회 논문집(Proceedings of the Korean Textile Conference)
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• pp.229-232
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• 2001

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1996년도 춘계학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.99-102
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• 1996

• 섬유기술과 산업
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.41-50
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• 1998