• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 연구논문집
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• s.28
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• pp.89-100
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• 1998

This paper deals with the design and analysis of a beating cam. The beating device of a high speed rapier loom, weaving fabric by completion of warp-weft patterns, is driven by double cam type on the same axis. As the double cam, coupled with two cams, performs the mutual conjugate motion, the double cam must be very preciously designed for smooth. For the shape design of a double cam, an instant velocity center method is proposed. This method can determine the cam profile from the contact conditions of the cam and roller follower and the velocity relationships at the instant velocity center. And the practical applicability was verified by developing “DISKCAM of a CAD program. As the results in this paper, the shapes of two cams, which are in the conjugate motion, are designed by instant velocity center method. We applied 8-order polynominals for the beating as displace¬ment curves for shape determination of double cams. The data of displacement, velocity, and acceleration of beating cam can be used adjust in accurate operation and to develope an advanced beating device.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.16-27
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• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.673-679
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• 2005

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of the coefficient of friction(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by Omega$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Vamatex-P1001ES$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment. Fabric thickness was also measured and discussed according to the fabric positions such as center and each of fabrics with two looms weaving tensons.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1998.05a
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• pp.168-173
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• 1998

A numerical analysis of axisymetric backward facing step main nozzle flow in air jet loom has been accomplished. To obtain basic design data for an optimum main nozzle for an air-jet loom and to predict the transonic/supersonic flow, a characteristic based upwind flux difference splitting compressible Navier-Stokes method has been used. The wall static pressure of the main nozzle and the flow velocity changes in the nozzle tube were analyzed by changing air tank pressures and acceleration tube lengths. The flow inside the nozzle experiences double choking one at the needle tip and the other at the acceleration tube exit at tank pressures over $4kg_f/cm^2$. The tank pressure $P_t$ leading to the critical condition depends on the acceleration tube length; i.e, $P_t$ is higher for longer acceleration tubes. The $P_t$ value required to bring the acceleration tube exit to the critical condition is nearly constant regardless of acceleration tube length. The round needle tip shape might lead to less total pressure loss when compared with step shape.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.117-142
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• 2020

This study aims to look for the main transport road of the ancient Silk Road and to add to the hidden history of silk, where little is known about the weaving technology of the beautiful silk of GoJoseon. The research was through the analysis of relics of empirical data and analyzed the secondary data collected from books, papers, and photos of artifacts. The research questions are as follows: First, investigates the environment of silk production for GoJoseon KyungGeum and the correlation between ancient Silk Road and the East region. Second, examines the advanced weaving technology of KyungGeum in GoJoseon. The findings of the study are as follows: It is possible to infer the production period of silk in GoJoseon through jade silkworms from the Hongsan Dong-Yi culture of 4500 BC. KyungGeum pieces were excavated in Louran, Astana and Niya of the Xinjiang Autonomous Region and Noin-Ula of Mongolia, and the oldest KyungGeum was found in JoYang, one of the capitals of GoJoseon near Balhae Bay. KyungGeum was invented in the 11th century BCE here. It became the brocade and damask of the West, which were delivered through steppe road before the 5~6th century BCE. The production of KyungGeum was possible through the advanced loom which is GoJoseon's horizontal square 'Jewharu' loom combined with a high level of weaving skill. This can't be made through the slant loom of China nor vertical loom of the West Asia. Based on these results, it is suggested to continue the research on the history of ancient silkroad.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.187-190
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• 1999

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.229-232
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1996.04a
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• pp.99-102
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• 1996

• Fiber Technology and Industry
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.41-50
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• 1998