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The Influence of the Youth Culture on the Street Fashion - On the Focus in 1960s - (청소년(靑少年) 문화(文化)가 스트리트 패션에 미친 영향(影響) - 1960년대(年代)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kan, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.35-48
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

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Color Inverse Halftoning using Vector Adaptive Filter (벡터적응필터를 이용한 컬러 역하프토닝)

  • Kim, Chan-Su;Kim, Yong-Hun;Yi, Tai-Hong
    • Journal of KIISE:Software and Applications
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    • v.35 no.3
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    • pp.162-168
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    • 2008
  • A look-up table based vector adaptive filter is proposed in color inverse halftoning. Inverse halftoning converts halftone image into a continuous-tone image. The templates and training images are required in the process of look-up table based methods, which can be obtained from distributed patterns in the sample halftone images and their original images. Although the look-up table based methods usually are faster and show better performances in PSNR than other methods do, they show wide range of qualities depending on how they treat nonexisting patterns in the look-up table. In this paper, a vector adaptive filter is proposed to compensate for these nonexisting patterns, which achieves better quality owing to the contributed informations about hue, saturation, and intensity of surrounding pixels. The experimental results showed that the proposed method resulted in higher PSNR than that of conventional Best Linear Estimation method. The bigger the size of the template in the look-up table becomes, the more outstanding quality in the proposed method can be obtained.

A Study on the Mods Look (모즈룩(Mods Look)에 관한 연구)

  • 정연자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.33
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    • pp.189-199
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    • 1997
  • The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.

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Second-look Arthroscopy after Surgical Treatment for Osteochondral Lesion of Talus - Comparison of Mosaicplasty with Microfracture - (거골 골연골 병변의 수술적 치료 후 이차 관절경술 -자가 골연골 이식술과 미세 골절술의 결과 비교-)

  • Choi, Jin;Lee, Keun-Bae;Cho, Seong-Beom;Jung, Sung-Taek;Park, Gi-Heon
    • Journal of Korean Foot and Ankle Society
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.133-139
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    • 2006
  • Purpose: To evaluate the results of mosaicplasty and microfracture after surgical treatments for symptomatic osteochondral lesion of talus (OLT) by second-look arthroscopy. Materials and Methods: 7 cases of mosaicplasty and 7 cases of microfracture were reviewed who undertook second-look arthroscopy at 6 months or one year after undertaking mosaicplasty or microfracture for OLT between December 2004 and October 2005. The mean age at first operation was 43.6 years (Range, 20-59) (Mosaicplasty; 43.9 years, Microfracture; 43.4 years). The mean size of cartilage defect was $15.0{\times}7.7\;mm$ in mosaicplasty and $7.1{\times}6.6\;mm$ in microfracture. Clinical outcomes were evaluated by Freiburg ankle score. Cartilage healing state was evaluated by Insall's classification for chondromalasia during second-look arthroscopy. Results: By the Freiburg ankle score, 9 ankles (6 in mosaicplasty, 3 in microfracture) had excellent and 5 (1 in mosaicplasty, 4 in microfracture) had good results at the times of second-look arthroscopy. By Insall's classification, consistency of the osteochondral grafts and congruity between grafts and native cartilage (Grade I) were shown in 9 (6 ankles in mosaicplasty, 3 ankles in microfracture), a fissuring (Grade II) in one ankle of mosaicplasty, a fasciculation (Grade III) in one ankle of microfracture, and partial exposure of subchondral bone (Grade IV) in 3 ankles of microfractures. Conclusion: Mosaicplasty was more excellent in consistency and hardness of cartilage than microfracture. In some cases of microfracture, cartilage healing was incomplete at 6 months postoperatively, so second-look arthroscopy is necessary to identify. If incomplete cartilage healing was shown, additional procedure such as microfracture or mosaicplasty was needed.

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A Study of the Outdoor Look Features in Modern Fashion Collections -Focusing on women's ready-to-wear collection 2014 to 2015- (현대 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 아웃도어 룩의 특성 연구 - 2014년에서 2015년 여성복 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Mikyoung;Kan, Hosup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.32-45
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    • 2016
  • Outdoor wear, which is typically worn for outdoor activities, has become a style that is worn on a daily basis, much like ordinary clothes, through recent megatrends. There are new approaches to outdoor wear with high-fashion brands and designers recently taking part in the trend. This indicates that outdoor wear has already reached high-fashion, no longer making it just a megatrend or daily fashion. Therefore this study aims to find new features of outdoor looks and designs, through the latest women's ready-to-wear collections from 2014 to 2015. The study will focus on mega collections, which have shown many new approaches, and searches to change and development the present day outdoor look design, by using the word 'outdoor look' which is explained as a 'style' in a broad sense, and using it a general term of 'clothes'. High fashion brands have pursued changing their styles by mixing their designs with outdoor wear's variety, functionality and details; attempting new approaches and challenges. Due to these updated changes, the outdoor look is thriving and becoming part of high fashion. Looking forward to future new approaches and the development of the outdoor look will help catapult this type of 'style' into a new category of modern fashion.

The Analysis of the Present Ethnic Fashion's Major Characteristics (현대 에스닉 패션(Ethnic Fashion)의 특성 분석)

  • Choi, Young-Ok
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.481-493
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    • 2005
  • Reason for contemporary ethnic-look's remarkable world popularity is viewed as due to counteraction of disordered world conditions such as war, terror, and economic depression. These conditions led people to desire the returning to primitive human society where freedom and peace are preserved. The background of ethnic look emergence is influences of post-modernism, eastern and western culture hybrid, and ecology. This study will mainly focus on the analysis of present ethnic fashion trend and, with following to this, their images will be analyzed and categorized. The result of ethnic trend, especially that of Asian's and African's, from 2000 to 2005 is like this: representative Asian ethnic fashion tendency is focusing on Japanese and Chinese. In Japanese style, oversized silhouette was derived by Kimono and wide belt was appeared by influence of Kimono's Obi. Chinese ethic style are analyzed as adapting feministic silhouette and details from Chinese traditional clothes, Chipao. Additionally, in some of the Chinese ethnic-look, there are mixtures with Japanese, North American, and African's images. Mixing with pop images and ancient ones are also emerged. In the African ethnic look, people used colorful cloth and new materials which is considered as integration of primitives and modern science. From the study, it is possible to conclude that current modern ethnic fashion can be defined as blends with one country's image to the other, mixture with new technology, and acceptance to the multi-national folk fashion. These trends are widely revealed and extended in the world fashion. In the following result of the analysis, there were four outstanding images lying underneath in the present ethnic-look. That is eclectic, traditional, natural, and mysterious images.

A study on the Relationship of Korean Film Costumes and Popular Fashion - Focused on the Retro Phenomenon Since the 1998 - (한국영화의상(韓國映畵衣裳)과 대중(大衆)패션의 연관성(聯關性)에 관(關)한 고찰(考察) -1998년(年) 이후(以後) Retro 현상(現狀)을 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Jung, Jee-Hae;Shin, Young-Sun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.122-142
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    • 2003
  • This study examines the meaning of retro phenomenon and its background of establishment that showed in the pop culture. And it finds out the retro phenomena in the domestic fashion trends. And it defines the characteristics of dress and its ornament in the retro phenomena that have shown in the Korean movies since 1998. By doing this, it examines the relationship between movie dress and street fashion while it compares the styles in the 50s 70s with the retro fashion that is currently emerging. The results of the study are as follows. First, the hippie look in the 60s represented a distinctive characteristic of how they rejected traditional lifestyles. Hippie's romantic femininity that showed in the movie of 'Oollala Sisters' received a spotlight as a necessary style in the modern fashion trend. Second, while the funk look in the 70s was a style of disorder and disgust, the movie gives it a possibility of fashion with a converted sense as a vanguard fashion while embracing the funk look. Third, the layered look in the 70s was expressed with layered items, while the current layered look emphasizes layered textiles as shown in the movie of 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King'. Fourth, the feminine look which was a symbol of restraint shows a mixed style with delicate feminine items as shown in the movies, 'The Harmonium In My Memory' and 'Ditto'. Fifth, the training look that has two stripes as shown in the movie 'the Friends' is considered as casual wear, which is functional and easy to move at the end of the 20th century. Finally, the romantic images of school look, as shown in the movies 'the Friends' and 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King', show a renewed mixed & unique style. This study has its significance in the sense that it verifies the fact that the movie dress does not show the characteristics of the works that momentarily passes the screen, but it becomes a foundation of the future fashion design. At this time that Korean movies are highly developing, a through study on the movie fashion will not only give a direction of future in the modern fashion, but it will also give a developing momentum in the Korean movie dress.

A Study on the Androgynous Expressed in Contemporary Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 앤드로지너스에 관한 연구)

  • 김경옥;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.36
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    • pp.239-262
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    • 1998
  • The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

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A Study on the Mods-Look Expressed on the 21st Century Fashion (21세기 패션에 표현된 모즈 룩 연구)

  • Chu, Mi-Kyung;Kim, Soon-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.859-870
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

The IPSec Systems on TOE for Gigabit Network (기가비트 네트워크 지원을 위한 TOE 기반 IPSec 시스템)

  • Shin, Chi-Hoon;Kim, Sun-Wook;Park, Kyoung;Kim, Sung-Woon
    • Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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    • 2005.11a
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    • pp.1035-1038
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    • 2005
  • This paper describes the designs and the implementations of two H/W IPSec Systems, look-aside and inline, on TOE (Transport Offloading Engine). These systems aim for guaranteeing the security of datagram networks while preserving the bandwidth of gigabit networks. The TOE offloads a host CPU from network burdens, so that it makes the gigabit wire speed possible, and then deeper level security architecture of the IPSec guarantees the security of gigabit service network dominated by datagram packets. The focus of this paper is to minimize the TOE's performance degradation caused by the computation-oriented IPSec. The look-aside IPSec system provides a significant improvement in the CPU offload of the IPSec cryptography loads. However, the inline system completely offloads the host CPU from whole IPSec loads, providing significant additional cost saving compared to the look-aside system. In this paper, the implementations of TOE cards including commercial IPSec processors are presented. As the result of performance evaluation with the protocol analyzer, we can get the fact that the inline IPSec system is 8 times faster than the S/W system and 2 times faster than the look-aside system.

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