• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2002

In order to estimate the height of long period wave from character of deep water wave, field observation is carried out three wave gauge are arranged by a straight line from the seashore to offshore direction and the result is analyzed. In addition, the existing theory of the mechanism for long period wave producer is verified by field observation, and the relation between deep water wave and long period wave of shallow area is examined. Observed long period wave is coincided with the existing theory for the most part. In order to add the change of time and space of long period wave, the height of long period wave is calculated by the composition of long period wave in each position. As a result, the relation of long period wave and deep water wave is presented more clear. Estimate formula is drew through them.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.133-138
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• 2000

In this paper some shapes of the FBW cross sections were examined to improve the performance of FBW for the long wave. Trapezoidal section and prominence section were examined. Linear potential theory is used and the boundary element method is use for numerical computation. Proper choice of the pontoon geometry may improve the transmission coefficient in the long wave range for a given wave period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-71
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• 1994

A modified method obtained by expanding Longuet-Higgins and Stewart's method (1964) is proposed. which can easily derive the group-bountied long wave due to the irregular were group as well as the regular wave group. The result of the proposed method agree well with those of both second order nonlinear theory and radiation stress theory. Particularly in the shallow water region, three equations from the proposed method, the second order nonlinear theory and the radiation stress theory become identical.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.7-11
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• 2001

In this paper, trapezoid sections and prominence sections were examined to improve the performance of floating breakwater in long waves. The linear potential theory is used and the boundary element method with a matching boundary is employed for numerical computation. The effects of the side slope of the trapezoid section and the geometry ratio of the prominence section on the floating breakwater were examined. It was found that trapezoid sections show lower transmission coefficients than the rectangular sections in the long wave range. In prominence sections the size of the sides are more important than the size of the top. Proper choices of the pontoon type geometry may move the local minimum point of the wave transmission coefficient toward the longer wave ranges and improve the performance of the floating breakwater in the long wave range for a given wave period.

• Transactions of Materials Processing
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.449-456
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• 2001

The concept of stress wave was introduced through the quantized kinetic energy which is related to the potentional energy change of atom, molecular bond energy. Differentiated molecular bond energy $\varphi$() by the lst order displacement u becomes force F(F = d$\varphi$($u_i$)/du), if resversely stated, causing physically atomic displacement $u_i$. Such physical phenomena lead stress(force/area of applied force) can be expressed by wave equation of linearly quantized physical property. Through the stress wave concept, formation of dislocation, which could not explained easily from a theory of continuum mechanics, can be explained. Moreover, this linearly quantized stress wave equation with a stress concept for grains in a crystalline solid was applied to three typical metallic microstructures and a simple shape. The result appears to be a product from well treated equations of a quantized stress wave. From this result, it can be expected to answer the reason why the defect free and very fine diameters of long crystalline shapes exhibit ideal tensile strength of materials.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.68-75
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• 2013

This paper investigates the characteristics of waves generated by a flap-type wave maker in a two-dimensional wave channel. Measurements are carried out for various water depths, wave heights, periods, and lengths capacitance-type wave height gages. The experimental results are shown to satisfy the dispersion relation of the linear wave theory. For waves with a small height and long period, the wave profiles agree well with those of the linear wave theory. However, as the wave height and period become higher and shorter, respectively, it is shown that the wave profiles measured in the present experiments are different from the linear wave profiles, and the measured wave heights are smaller than the target wave heights, which may be due to the non-linearity of the waves. As the wave progresses toward the channel end, the wave height gradually decreases. This reduction in the wave height along the wave channel is explained by the wave energy dissipation due to the friction of the side walls of the channel. The performance of the wave absorber in the channel is found to be acceptable from the results of the wave reflection tests.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.573-583
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• 1994

In this study, the shock characteristics for high velocity impact phenomena during the initial shock state by the long rod penetrator are calculated. From these results we re-analyze the one-dimensional hydrodynamic penetration theory by introducing the effective area ratio calculated from the mushroomed strain which is dependent on impact velocity. Calculated penetration depth and mushroomed strain show good agreement with high velocity impact experimental data. In addition we visualize the shock wave propagation in a transparent acryle block.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2015

An approach based on the combined use of a 2D shallow water model and analytical 1D long wave run-up theory is proposed which facilitates the forecasting of tsunami run-up heights in a more rapid way, compared with the statistical or empirical run-up ratio method or resorting to complicated coastal inundation models. Its application is advantageous for long-term tsunami predictions based on the modeling of many prognostic tsunami scenarios. The modeling of the Chilean tsunami on February 27, 2010 has been performed, and the estimations of run-up heights are found to be in good agreement with available observations.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.85-89
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• 2004

The wave interactions with fully submerged and floating dual buoy/vertical porous membrane breakwaters has been investigated in experimentally to validate the developed theory and numerical method in the previous study, in which multi-domain hydro-elastic formulation was carried out in the context of linear wave-body interaction theory and Darcy's law. It is found that the experimental results agrees well with the numerical prediction. Transmission and reflection can be quite reduced simultaneously especially in the region of long waves. The properly tuned system to incoming waves can effectively dissipate wave energy and also offset each other between incident and scattered waves using its hydro-elasticity and geometry.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.3 s.70
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• pp.1-6
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• 2006

Modulation theory describes propagation of surface waves with deep wave number and frequency modulation. Locally spectrally narrow wave packet can have accumulated large scale frequency shift of carrier wave during propagation. Some important nonlinear modulation effects, such as negative frequencies, phase kinks, crest pairing, etc., often observed experimentally at long fetch propagation of finite amplitude surface wave trains, are reproduced by the proposed theory. The presented model permits also to analyze the appropriately short surface wave packets and modulation periods. Solutions show the wave phase kinks to arise on areas' of relatively small free surface displacement in complete accordance with the experiments.