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The Comparative Study of Koanbok between the koryo and Sung Dynasty (고려시대와 송대의 관복 비교연구 - 공.상복을 중심으로 -)

  • 서옥경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.131-144
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    • 1997
  • This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.

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A Study on the Apparels of Shamanism during Cho Sun Dynasty (조선시대 무속복식연구-좌당 내력을 중심으로-)

  • 조효순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.34
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    • pp.195-208
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    • 1997
  • 1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

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A Study on the Characteristics of Japanese Traditional Patterns (일본 전통문양의 특징에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Se-Na;Oh, Kyung-Wha
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.5 no.5
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    • pp.511-519
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    • 2003
  • The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

A Study of Relations Between Clothes Image Types and Design Factors (의복 이미지 유형과 디자인 요소와의 관계)

  • 유태순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.45
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    • pp.103-120
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

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A Study on Press Preferences according to Clothing Design Factors of Children Dress - Focused on preschool children-mother - (디자인 요소에 따른 아동 드레스의 선호도 연구 - 학령 전 아동과 어머니를 중심으로 -)

  • Yang, Hyo-Jung;Park, Soon-Chun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.53-63
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    • 2015
  • The necessity on children dresses for cultural events and emotional aspects in designs have become important according to the development of kids industry and revitalization of party culture, and so grasping emotional requirements of consumers is necessary actually. This study aims at purpose of this research, the study used 27 color pictures on the whole bodies of children who wore children dresses that mixed clothing design factors differently (sleeve, skirt length, waist line, materials, color, decoration type and location) through a survey. Regarding the survey objects, this study objected children of 5~6 years old in full and their mothers who lived in Gwangju Metropolitan City, and its results were same as follows. First, dress preferences between children group and mother group were similar generally, but differences were displayed from dress lengths. That is, children preferred long length in general, and whereas mothers were come out to prefer shot length comparatively. Second, the study could get results by mixing ranking 1 and ranking 2 according to clothing design factors that were preferred by children group and mothers group deduced through an empirical analysis. Merely, the location according to decoration type was limited to ranking 1. Based on the research, this study expects that various forthcoming researches have been made continuously, and it could become a guideline for the development of children dress industry afterwards.

A study on the torso body size and body shape classification of obese adult women (비만 성인 여성의 토르소 신체 치수 및 체형 분석)

  • Sohn, Jae-Min;Kim, Dong-Eun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.561-576
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study was to classify the upper torso body types of obese Korean adult women using the 7th Korea National Anthropometric Study data and compare the body type differences according to three age groups: 20s~30s, 40s~50s, and 60s. A total of 548 adult women whose BMI was in the obese range of 25 or higher and whose age ranged from 20s to 60s were selected from the anthropometric database. Twenty-nine body measurements related to torso and arm areas important for torso and sleeve pattern development were chosen. Five drop values by differences between bust, waist, and hip circumferences were also chosen for analysis. The number of obese women increased with age. The results revealed seven factors according to the factor analysis and three obese body types based on the cluster analysis. Body type 1 (47.3% of obese women) was characterized by narrow shoulders, a small or medium torso, and a straight waist. Body type 2 (42.4% of obese women) was characterized by a defined waist and a larger lower torso than upper torso. Body type 3 (10.3% of obese women), the largest obese body type among the three types, was characterized by a large bust, large abdomen area, and long upper torso. Women in their 20s to 30s were most likely to have body type 2, women in their 40s to 50s were evenly distributed between body types 2 and 3, and women in their 60s were most likely to have body type 1.

A Study on the Costume of Balhae Dynasty(II) -Focused on the costume of a bronze state excavated in the Maritime Provinces of Russia- (발해의 복식에 관한 연구(II) -러시아 연해주에서 발견된 청동용을 중심으로-)

  • 김민지
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.97-118
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    • 1994
  • This stud is my second trial to examine the costume of Balhae Dyansty. The subject of this study is the costume of a bronze statue excavated in the Maritime Provinces of Russia. The bronze statue is in the custody of Vladivostok Museum E.V. Shavkunov a Russian archelogist reported it a statue of-ficial of balhae dynasty in the 7-8th century. Judged his report lack of basis I suggest new opinion on sex, age, married or unmarried. social position manufactured time of the statue by comparative study on the costume hair-style and appearance of the statue with around nations' antiquities. hair-style of the statue is basically included in Ssangge and complexed style of Sage Ssangsuhuange, and Guange, Generally, Ssangge is a hair style of children, unmarried women, court ladies, dancing girls, and instrument player (lady)s'. The statue wears round-necked blouse long skirt broad fabric belt at high waist broad sleeve and confront collar coat cloud shaped shawl and risen tip shoes. The figure of statue is de-scribed plump. The statue shows straight sil-houette and high waist typical style of Tang, Uddai, The most characteristic facto is cloud shaped shawl Cloud shaped shawl was originally one of the northern race's shoulder ornaments. From the view of Comparative study the antiquities of NamDang and JunChock are simi-lar to this statue. Besides Tsukanovka river where the statue was excavated is Kraskino ruins of a castle formed single cultural layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the latter period of Balhae Dynasty. Therefore this statue is assumed to have been manufactured at the last years of Balhae Dynasty and to be a figure of unmarried woman not official.

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A Study on the Development of Women's Golf Windbreaker Design (여성 골프웨어 바람막이 디자인 개발)

  • Ryou, Heun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.3
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    • pp.420-432
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.

A Study on the Mending Work Based on the Excavated Costume of Jang Heung Lim's (장흥임씨 출토의복 보수(補修)에 관한 연구)

  • Ahn Myung-Sook;Lee Mee-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.8
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    • pp.27-34
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    • 2004
  • Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently.

The Association of Health Care Workers' Uniforms and Health Care-associated Infection: Systematic Review (병원근무자 유니폼에 의한 병원 내 감염에 대한 체계적 문헌고찰)

  • Jeong, Eun-Young;Kim, Jin-Hyun
    • Perspectives in Nursing Science
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.65-76
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    • 2013
  • Purpose: To identify an associations between health care workers' uniforms and health care-associated infection. Methods: Electronic databases, including Ovid-Medline, the Cochrane Library, CINAHL, EMBASE, KMbase, and KoreaMed, were searched. The search terms included doctor, nurse, health care worker/staff/assistant, clothing, (white) gown, uniform, (neck)tie, and attire. Only papers published in English and Korean were included. Results: 16 studies were selected from 1,900 references screened. All of the studies were non-comparative studies except for one. Four were conducted with doctors, six with nurses, one with health care workers including physiotherapists and one for medical staff plus visitors in a neonatal intensive care unit. Doctors more frequently changed their uniforms than neckties; therefore, the degree of contamination was more serious in neckties. The cuff zone was more likely to be heavily contaminated than other areas of long-sleeve gowns. Coats become contaminated quickly once worn, and colony counts reached a similar level within the first few hours after wearing them. Wearing a plastic apron or protective clothing did not prevent the bacterial contamination of nurses' uniforms, and the best way to decrease the contamination was changing to newly laundered uniforms before starting every duty. Conclusion: Healthcare workers' uniforms are a potential source of health care-associated infection although there was no robust evidence. The government must establish standards for laundering of uniforms or a requirement for institutions to provide a laundering service for healthcare workers' uniforms.

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