• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1038-1052
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze present the pattern making of the lining fabrics calculating the right ease and rising quantities of arm-hole when the pattern of the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics is produced. The outcomes of this study are as follows. The right ease of lining fabrics was not room of 0cm as patterns being same the right side of fabrics in the girth of the chest, waist, and the edge of a garment and gets the most excellent valuation, and then the girth of the chest, and waist was applied to 2cm and around the edge of a garment 0cm in regular lining fabrics. In addition to, although the ease of patterns of the lining fabrics was more, it was not necessarily to satisfy. The result of the valuation according to the quantities of rising arm-hole of the pattern of the lining fabrics showed that the making lining fabrics that the quantities of rising arm-hole was 0.8cm in the body and 1.2cm in the sleeve in the both the stretchable fabrics and regular lining fabrics was the most excellent thing, and then 0cm in the body and 2cm in the sleeve, and then 0cm in the body and 0cm in the sleeve. The valuation of external appearance on the quantities of rising arm-hole was recognized similarly because of being rarely significance level, but around the chest and waist was recognized as being significance level in wearing satisfaction.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권32호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2011

유물을 처리하기 전에 제작 시기, 기법, 재질 등의 정보를 수집하는 것은 보존처리 방법 결정에 중요하다. 대상유물인 팔사품도는 이순신 장군이 명나라 신종황제로부터 하사받은 팔사품을 그림으로 그린 것으로 바탕재료인 직물에 안료를 이용하여 채색되어 있었으며, 뒷면에는 1장의 종이로 배접이 되어있는 상태였다. 제작연대나 작가 등 유물에 대한 정보가 남아있지 않았기 때문에 유물의 재질 분석을 통해서 제작 연대를 추정해보고, 처리 및 보관 방향을 결정하고자 하였다. 팔사품도의 바탕재료로 사용된 직물의 분석 결과 리본 꼬임과 강낭콩 모양의 단면이 관찰되어 면으로 확인되었다. 배접지에 사용된 종이를 분석한 결과 C 염색액에 의해 오렌지색으로 염색되었으며, 섬유장이 짧고 섬유 측면에 가도관이 관찰되어 침엽수 펄프로 제조된 종이로 추정된다. 또한 채색안료를 분석한 결과 자황(Orpiment, $As_2S_3$), 연단(Minium, $Pb_3O_4$), 석간주(Hematite, $Fe_2O_3$), 화록청[Emerald green, $C_2H_3As_3Cu_2O_8$], 군청(Ultramarine, [$2(Na_2O{\cdot}Al_2O_3{\cdot}2SiO_2){\cdot}Na_2S_2$]), 활석[Talc, $Mg_3Si_4O_{10}\;(OH)_2$] 및 황산바륨($BaSO_4$), 황동(Brass)을 사용한 것으로 추정된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1098-1109
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• 1999

This study was to examine the effects of textiles materials and wearing types on the thermal regulation responses of human, Cotton polyester wool silk and rayon were chosen as outerwears and acetate was selected as a lining. Blouse-skirt suits blouse-slacks suits and one-piece dress made of selected textiles were examined by human trials, Tests results were as follows ; 1 When subjects wore vlouse-slacks suits Tmsk was showed the highest value. There was a significant difference on Tmsk(p<0.05) when they wore one-piece dress. The temperature of microclimate inside clothing when subjects wore blouse-slacks suits showed the highest value and one-piece dress and then blouse-skirt suits in order. For blouse-skirt suits clothing without lining showed higher temperature of the back of microclimate inside clothing than clothing with lining except cotton(p<0.1) 2. There were no significant consistency of the increasing rates of thermal insulation of garment at fabric test and human trials among polyesterand silk.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.175-182
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• 1998

This study was to investigated physical properties of lining fabric (Nylon, Acetate, Rayon and Polyester) such as shrinkage, tensile strength, moisture regain and crease resistance. The results were as follows. 1. The number of repeated washing times and the concentration of the detergent almost didn't affect on the change of tensile strength. 2. As washing increase more, the shrinkage of all sample was more increased. In the case of Rayon, it was showed that shrinkage was high by $1{\sim}3$ times washing. In the case of Nylon, it was showed minus shrinkage according to frequency of washing. 3. The moisture regain was very decreased by 1 times washing. But the moisture regain was increased with increase in frequency of washing and resulted in it was showed a similar value with controls. 4. As the frequency of washing and the concentration of detergent increase more, the crease resistance was decreased considerably because the elasticity of fiber decreased by mechanical force such as tension, bending and pressure and alkali.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권12호
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• pp.1685-1693
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• 2002

다양한 용도로 사용되고 있는 라미네 이 팅 직물은 주로 별도로 제조된 고분자 필름 또는 막을 접착제, 열, 압력 등을 이용하여 기포(基布)와 결합시키는 방법으로 제조되어 진다. 이축연신시킨 Poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE) sheet는 매우 우수한 높은 투과성을 지니는 다공성 물질이 며, 본 연구에서는 이 막을 나일론 직물에 라미네이팅시킨 투습방수직물을 시료로 사용하여 라미네이팅 후의 역학특성 변화를 분석 하였다. 라미네이팅에 따른 투습방수직물의 물성과 역학특성의 변화에 관하여 살펴본 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 3-layer 라미네이팅 직물(base fabric-PTFE membrane-knitted lining)의 인열강도는 2-layer라미네이팅 직물 (base fabric-PTFE membrane)에 비해 매우 높게 나타났으며, 가공 전 직물과 비교하여 코팅직물에서 나타난 것과 같은 인열강도의 감소는 나타나지 않았다. 직물-PTFE 막 복합체 의 경우, 라미네 이 팅 이 파단강도 및 파단신도 의 증가에 기여 한 것으로 나타났으며 특히 3-layer 라미네이팅 직물의 경우, 신장률이 20%를 넘어서면서 강도가 현저히 증가하였다. 의복을 착용하였을 때 가해질 수 있을 정도의 소변형(small deformation) 하에서의 역학특성 에 있어서는 라미네이팅에 의해 전단특성이 가장 유의한 변화를 나타내었다. 전단강성(G)과 전단 히스테리시스 (2HG,2HG5)모두 증가하였고, primary hand value 중에서는 stiffness 가장 현저한 증가를 나타내었다

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.388-399
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of garment design, fabric type and the presence of lining on the thermal insulation value $(I_{cle}\;and\;I{cl})$ and clothing area factor $(f_{cl})$ of skirts. A standing, electrically heated thermal maninkin was used to measure the insultation value of eighty skirts-five skirt styles with eight different fabrics, with and without lining. The air temperature of the chamber was set at $22.2^{\circ}C{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ , air velocity was limited to less than 0.1 m/s, and relative humidity was approximately $50\%$. The results are as follows: 1) The Ic, values of gathered skirt and flared skirt, which had high $f_{cl}$ values, were significantly higher than those of other skirts, though the highest $I_{cle}$ value among five styles wer pegged skirt. 2) Insulation values of various skirts were more relevant with physical properties such as thickness, air permeability, and thermal transmission of the materials rather than fiber content. 3) The addition of lining made significant difference in the insulation values of skirts and the differences of gathered and flared skirt were significantly higher than those of othere types of skirts.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.2292-2299
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• 2010

온열안마기의 내부천으로 사용되고 있는 직물의 내구성을 향상시키고자 기존 PET/면 혼방직물의 마모현상을 분석하고, 그 문제점을 보완할 수 있는 난연성 PET 직물을 설계/제조한 후 물리적 성능 및 내구성을 평가하였다. 기존 직물의 경우 구동부분의 반복적인 마찰에 의한 마모뿐만 아니라, 구동시 내부천의 이동에 의해 발생하는 접힘 현상이 회복되지 못하기 때문에 직물의 파손이 가속화되는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 섬유재질의 변경, 신축사, 강연사, 조직의 변경 등을 적용하여 물리적 성능 및 내마모성을 크게 개선한 내부천을 제조하였다. 특히 신축사를 사용 한 직물의 내구성은 크게 향상되어 기존 직물 대비 2배 이상의 사용시간을 증가시킬 수 있었으며, 강연사를 사용한 직물은 약 1.5배 정도 내마모시간이 증가하는 결과를 얻었다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2007년도 추계학술발표회
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• pp.141-142
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• 2007